Some goodies arrived today - new driving lights

surebuttercringe · August 11, 2014

With so many trucks going LED light bars, I wanted something a little different. Not that I have anything against the LEDs, but I really don't have a use for them since I don't ever go offroading. So instead, I bought 4 Hella 500 Black Magic driving lights. These are going to be mounted on an N-Fab front bumper light mount and wired to the high beams as well as a switch. N-Fab bar should be here by FedEx today and should have everything installed by Friday (next day off of work). Any comments on how I can wire all 4 into one switch would be greatly appreciated.

00Silverado4x4 · August 11, 2014

How I wired my driving lights was using a "add-a-circuit" off the high beam fuse and ran that through a switch that activated a relay. Then battery power goes the relay and turns on your lights. In your case I'd probably use a couple of relays. You would be able to still use one switch to "turn on" the relays, just make a jumper from one relay to the other. Make sure everything has a fuse so nothing gets burned up. The most "fun" I had with the install was getting the wires for the switch through the firewall. I managed to get them through one of the rubber boots next to my brake booster.

surebuttercringe · August 12, 2014

Thanks for the info. Luckily, the lights came with wiring, fuses, relays and switches so it sounds like I can make a jumper and have it work like I want it.

J-Jeezy · August 13, 2014

Yeah. If use a add a fuse unless you want to be able to turn them off whenever the truck is on or off, then just jump the signal pin to the battery pin. What I would do personally would use a terminal block mounted somewhere to allow proper distribution between the relay and all 4 lights instead of 5 wires crimped together

kstruckcountry · August 13, 2014

I just skipped the switch on mine. I didn't want to bother with running wiring into the cab and having them turn on with the brights works perfect. Saved me a lot of hassle. I am in the same boat as you, everyone has LEDs and I have yet to find one that I like as much as Hellas dollar for dollar.

But definitely no more than 2 lights per relay, unless you get one you know can handle it. I would be tempted to solder the wires to the terminals to make sure they have a good connection. There is lots of good info kicking around on various ways to wire. But I'm assuming you want your end result to be a rocker switch, one position on and the other with brights?

PS: I picked up a set of the clear rock guards for my FF75's, they definitely made me rest easier.

TXS Heat · August 13, 2014

Can't wait to see the final setup here! Iike the nfab light bar but have front sensors so it isn't an option for me -

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chuckl1218 · August 13, 2014

Someone on here moved their front sensors to their Bull Bar. That might be an option for you. I think it is in a thread about Bull Bars.

surebuttercringe · August 13, 2014

Someone on here moved their front sensors to their Bull Bar. That might be an option for you. I think it is in a thread about Bull Bars.

N-Fab light bar is not like a bull bar. It is skinny tubing and sensor mounting will not work on this.

surebuttercringe · August 13, 2014

But I'm assuming you want your end result to be a rocker switch, one position on and the other with brights?

Yep, that's what I'm going for. The Hella instructions that come with the lights show how to do this with each set of lights, but I'm trying to avoid wiring 2 rocker switches.

surebuttercringe · August 24, 2014

Got everything wired up last night. Decided to go with having it activated by just turning on the high beams. Light output is exactly what I expected. Nothing like LEDs, but a good, broad pattern perfect for night driving down the occasional dark road.

Got some wire loom to hide the wires and clean it up a little.

MikeNH · August 25, 2014

Looks nice!

I figure if I get a regular cab next I'll be sure to order it with the plow prep pkg as it comes with a factory switch and circuit for a roof light. The connector for that roof harness is usually under the dash. I figure if I re-route those wires I can have a factory switched 30 amp circuit.