Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

A few years ago on my 1996 chevy k1500, my dad and I replaced the fuel pump in my truck. It certainly was a learning experience for both of us. we chose to just drop the tank down and do it that way. after we got it all put back together it all worked and it was good to go, however then the gas gage didnt work from half a tank up but it did work from half a tank down. So I figured hey I know when its out of gas right? and it worked that way for several years. untill recently when I put some gas in the tank and now the gas gauge is really freaking out. it bounces from straight down and fighting with the oil pressure gage which probably isnt good. to full to half. but soon as it gets below half a tank it stops freaking out but still doesnt seem accurate.

 

my first thought is fuel sending unit. but i have done a lot of reading about it and heard anything from the instrument cluster to a ground or a bad sending unit or loose sending unit. I do remember when we pulld the tank we didnt know about the little ground wire that went from the tank to up on top of the frame and it seemse to me like we might have stressed it pretty bad :( what ground does that go to exactly?

 

I plan on checking the grounds, wires first and i want to have the new part on hand if i have to drop the tank again so i dont have to do it twice.

 

Is there anything else i should watch for or check?? thanks :)

Posted

I replaced my fuel pump and sending unit in the tank earlier this year. When I looked at the sending units alone (no fuel pump) I noticed on the part numbers there were "HV" and non-HV models. I asked a round but didn't find a definitive answer of what the difference was. I think, though, that the "HV" in the part number needs to match the type of gas gauge in the dash. So a non-"HV" model sending unit with a HV model gauge or vice versa would cause the bad readings on the gauge.

 

I had the pump and sending unit replaced by someone else about 10 years ago and after that the gauge went way past full and dropped quickly from 1/2 tank down to empty. When it said 1/2 tank it was about 1/3 or 1/4 tank. I think they were mismatched.

 

I checked the non-HV unit I got before I put it in this time and it read correctly so I installed it and it is accurate. I had the bed off so it was easy to connect the wires and just move the float by hand to check it.

 

I'm thinking the "HV" stands for high voltage or something similar but don't know for sure. It would affect the resistance in the sending unit.

 

I'm wondering if you have a mismatch on the sending unit/gauge and it has damaged the gauge.

Posted

well thats really good to know. but i havent ever replaced the sending unit and it worked fine untill we replaced the pump. i havent had time to look at it yet but im trying to get to it. ill post anything i find

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I was told on another forum to try and ground the purple wire on top of the tank. if the gauge went to full they said that the gauge is working and that the sending unit is bad. So I tried it and it went to E not F so maybe thats what he meant to say. Im looking at new units. I would like to put an acdelco one in it but my wallet wont really allow that right now. so im looking at either a spectra or dorman brand. what are your thoughts?

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

today I finally got the fuel sending unit replaced today. we lifted up the bed and used blocks of wood to hold it up. it took about 2 hours (including the time we took to go get a swived joint for the rear bolts by the hitch) and my gas gauge now works good again :)

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

A few years ago on my 1996 chevy k1500, my dad and I replaced the fuel pump in my truck. It certainly was a learning experience for both of us. we chose to just drop the tank down and do it that way. after we got it all put back together it all worked and it was good to go, however then the gas gage didnt work from half a tank up but it did work from half a tank down. So I figured hey I know when its out of gas right? and it worked that way for several years. untill recently when I put some gas in the tank and now the gas gauge is really freaking out. it bounces from straight down and fighting with the oil pressure gage which probably isnt good. to full to half. but soon as it gets below half a tank it stops freaking out but still doesnt seem accurate.

 

my first thought is fuel sending unit. but i have done a lot of reading about it and heard anything from the instrument cluster to a ground or a bad sending unit or loose sending unit. I do remember when we pulld the tank we didnt know about the little ground wire that went from the tank to up on top of the frame and it seemse to me like we might have stressed it pretty bad :( what ground does that go to exactly?

 

I plan on checking the grounds, wires first and i want to have the new part on hand if i have to drop the tank again so i dont have to do it twice.

 

Is there anything else i should watch for or check?? thanks :)

if your truck has a trailer plug, 4 pin or 6. It could be a broken wire or ground back there. That's what was wrong with my volt gauge. Replaced tow plug and now all is well.

  • 6 years later...
Posted

Back up lights and warning lights were not working.White wire from tow plug grounded to frame.White wire removed from frame, the back up lights and warning lights now work.Bad ground from trailer hitch must be the problem.Somebody didn't know what they were doing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.6k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,993
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    President Roberto
    Newest Member
    President Roberto
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 268 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I don't wanna do major surgery/upgrades, behind-the-dash work, add amps, change radio etc. on my '26 std cab WT. On the WT, it has the base 7" IOR infotainment setup, and only two speakers (doors). Since I listen to classical, looked around for speakers that do well and dug thru reviews. Two-way speakers were found to be better than 3-way. So I've ordered a pair of  Infinity Reference REF-9632IX 2 way speakers.  [These may  or may not have been discontinued / succeeded by the 3-way ...9633 ones.]    These speakers are lauded for 3 ohm and 94db sensitivity spec so they'll work well for ordinary base car radios without amps and offer better performance (quality,  strength) than  default base paper-cone speakers. They'll be installed in a few days and I'll let y'all know what I think. Bill W San Jose      
    • Thanks!   Changed out the rear shocks today to Bilstein 5100s.  So far feel much better. The stock Rancho were wore out.  Lots of heavy hauling (2 moves, home renovations, etc).  Next up is new BFG tires Monday.  Cant wait the current tires have little to no wet traction and are super loud (hum)    
    • Ok, I got the all the codes. What do you all think would be a place to start?
    • How about I just point to the factory pans stand pipe little drain plug and claim its a pan with a real drain plug !. I just couldn't swallow the fact that a Dorman pan which at this point is probably the only pan out there that fits the gas version truck cost that much up here in Canada so I decided initially anyway to skip it and see what I thought of pulling the pan method and down the road if I felt inclined enough then I would either install a drain plug kit in the factory pan if there is enough room for it, or have a bung welded onto it, or put an aftermarket pan on. The thing is if the pan is not pulled then the magnets in the pan can't be inspected and cleaned or if wanting to change out the filter. However of course it certainly would make the job easier to be able to drop the oil first before having to handle the pan if dropping the pan that go around was the goal.    I knew a guy locally that was doing custom field spraying years ago with a pickup pulling a ground driven sprayer, I believe it was a GM pickup with an automatic trans. He had a drain plug in his pan and would drop the oil out of it once a week and top it back up through the dipstick tube to keep refreshing a portion of the oil often and that made the transmission last far longer than had he done nothing. Soft fields pulling 500 gallons of water at the start of each mixed up sprayer tank batch and in low range sucking along. I imagine he got some tips from other custom sprayer outfits doing the same thing at the time and learning from their blown up tranny mistakes. Transmissions then had no lock up converter so would cook the crap out of the fluid slipping that much and it would not have been synthetic fluid either. 
    • 3.39 Kroger’s in Montgomery Texas. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...