Jump to content

I own a ford, buying a new sierra HD Denali


InvertedAerials

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello All,

 

I currently drive a 2012 F150 FX4 Ecoboost.

 

Looking at the new Danali HD ... waiting for the new mirrors.

 

Dream Truck would be the All Terrain SLT HD ... with with the Denali instrument panel. Oh well, can't have everything.

 

Want to put on new bumpers, Warn 16.5Ti, off road and driving lights, and probably a Thule or Yakama basket up to with even more lights.

 

Looking for a pair of Warn W700-HID Driving Lights and a pair of W650F Fog Beams mounted somewhere in the bumper/bushbar and another set on the basket up top.

 

anyone know the best/most powerful light in the industry?

 

i look forward to chatting with you all.

 

oh...one last thing...looking for a lift kit 3in to 5in similar to...CTS EXTENDED TRAVEL LEVELING KIT W/ 2.5 RESERVOIR SHOCKS | 2011-2015 GM 2500HD | 0-3" ...

 

but I want it around 4on to 4½in and wait to use Fox Shox!... any ideas?

 

 

Best Regards,

 

Jeff (InvertedAerials)

Posted

Need pics buddy, sounds like a nice truck. Depends on what you want for lights, do you want a more localized beam? Or a more of a fog pattern? Or both? Maybe a light bar would better suit your needs? I run HID's in the normal hi/low and PIAA's in the bumper. I can run jus low beams and one set of fogs, or I can have all 8 lights on at once...it's like stadium lighting.

 

Welcome anyways, like Steve said PICTURES!!

Posted

Welcome. That sounds like it'll be a sweet setup. Agree with Chevyboy86. you can get a light bar that has combo lights, with spot light and flood light combo.

Posted

hello all,

 

I will definitely take pics once i have the truck. should be next spring. Dont want to order a brand new truck just befor the winter.

 

Lights, here are my thoughts...a set of localized (driving) inner bumper, wide beam (fogs) outer (depending on the bumper). Then another set of each on the grille guard, and finally a long light bar (LED) on the yakama/Thule rack on the roof. I drive at night quite a bit, and live in moose country. had a couple of close calls. Ford F150 (pre HID) headlights suck!

 

 

Road Armor - http://www.roadarmor.com/products/Bumpers/2008-2010/GMC/2500-3500/part-number-37402B

TrailReady - http://www.trailready.com/bumpers/gm_08.html

BulletProof - http://www.bulletproofbumpers.com/gmc_11.php (Brush Guard)

BodyGuard - http://www.bodyguardbumpers.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=44

 

looking forward to hearing what you guys think!

 

best regards,

 

Jeff.

Posted

Go on any diesel forum and ask road armour and iron cross are junk, cheaper yes but the paint is terrible. Mine is a bullet proof, 1/4" plate..the paint is 4 years old. I've been backed into twice not a debt or moved anything. Not the same for the other vehicle LOLOL. Plus with bullet proof you can get square holes now fit led's!!

 

9cfebf1bd06809ba118e9c1f4f3794bb.jpg

 

Bullet proof or snotty built all the way!!!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,215 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...