Jump to content

AR-10 anyone build any?

8.1HD/ALLISON

By 8.1HD/ALLISON
in The Off-Topic Bar

Recommended Posts

8.1HD/ALLISON Senior Enthusiast

8.1HD/ALLISON

Posted
Posted

I'm loving my ar-15 and been thinking it would be nice to build my own gun. Wanting to go with a bigger round. Thinking .308, especially if they open up rifles for deer season next year. I'm no stranger to tearing down guns and cleaning, but never done a build. Just looking for tips and info on the entire process, parts compatability, etc. Going to see how things go in the future, but figured I'd start doing some homework. Thanks

Mortman Enthusiast

Mortman

Posted
Posted

You could go 300 AAC. You give up about 400 fps but you could just build the upper (it'll operate on your 5.56 lower).

Squirrely Enthusiast

Squirrely

Posted
Posted

The ar10 will not be compatible with your ar15. The upper and lower are larger, different barrel nut, gas block, mag, buffer and spring. I think the trigger assemble is heavier too... not sure though.

 

The biggest issue I have with my builds is getting the upper build straight. If you cant the barrel nut even a little, then your sights wont line up. This is an issue if you plan on using a full floating quad rail with sights mounted on it. Alignment, this part takes time and lots of fine tuning to get everything straight. The rest of the build is fairly straight forward. Youtube has a lot of good videos on how to build.

 

You will need a dedicated block to mount the upper receiver. The block lets you to torque the barrel to spec while it's being held in a vise. And you should buy the armorer wrench which I think works on both the AR10 and AR15. Both these tools are way overpriced but worth it.

8.1HD/ALLISON Senior Enthusiast

8.1HD/ALLISON

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah I understand the differences. I'll check out YouTube for sure. I have an armorer wrench already from working with my ar. Thanks for the pointers.

  • 2 weeks later...
TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted

Trigger and stock are about the only parts that cross over, everything else is different between the two calibers. I own both (actually 4) AR platform rifles. As said the lower is completely different as is the upper. if you can work on your AR15 then the AR10 will be fine as well.

5RWill Enthusiast

5RWill

Posted
Posted

Palmetto just came out with the PS 10, it's very tempting considering how cheap it is. I don't know much about Palmetto though. Been waiting for BCM to come out with a BCM10 for ever don't know if they will but i hope they will.

http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/catalog/product/view/id/18921/s/psa-pa10-18-mid-length-stainless-ss15-rifle-kit/category/4387/

hollis092 Enthusiast

hollis092

Posted
Posted

Yeah, you will definitely need to go with AR 10 Upper & Lower.

 

Even with the PS-10, you would need to get a lower to match the cut. I like PSA, but they take forever to ship stuff even if its in stock. This and the kit has no lower you would buy the PS-10 to match, but they don't state the cut or styling, so if you break a bolt or need something replaced I wouldn't know what part to go with.

 

What you want to do is stick with styling. If you get a DPMS cut/style parts, make sure you get them all the same. If you go with Armalite style/cut parts, same here, get all same styling.

 

Check Primary Arms (outstanding company, great service, hard to beat on prices) https://www.primaryarms.com/AR_308_Lowers_s/6412.htm

 

See the Aero Precision - it states DPMS Cut. You could get the Aero receivers, then go with a DPMS style/cut carrier and bolt. You would also need to get the handguard that is styled for DPMS style builds.

 

Pretty straight forward, just stick with one style and you will come out with a great build.

 

The AR-10 platform is pretty versatile, just like the 15. You can do alot of different variants, .234, .308, 6.55 creedmore and more

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      While waiting for parts I have been working on installing the AC compressor, new accumulator, and orifice tube. Also changed out the high side ball valve (original). The orifice tube that was in there wasn't too bad. Slightly dirty, a little bit of junk, but not blocked. Glad I changed it out.   The accumulator, which should have been a 5 minute job, may have just burned $50. Put some PAG in it, wrote the date and mileage on the side, fresh o-rings and gooey'd up the threads and rings with Nylog. Got everything connected and snugged and was going to vacuum down the system, and....   My manifold gauge won't fit on the port. It's not an R12 service port. It LOOKS like an R134 service port but the diameter is a hair too large. There's a sticker on the accumulator that says it's designed to be used with R12 and R134a systems only. So it's not R1234yf. Even if I reduced the diameter slightly with a file, the shoulder on the port is too large so the quick-connect valve won't lock on. I'm stumped. It's going back, and 50/50 on if they'll give me a refund.   Also, I did a fuel pressure test.... Key on, the gauge spikes to about 60psi and quickly bleeds off, like 2psi per second. The fuel isn't going into the plenum, no smell, starts fine, so I'm guessing there's a bad check valve in the pump and the fuel is just draining back into the tank. oh, hell. But, it shouldn't be a problem, pump primes just fine and the truck starts right up. It just means I can't really ever use fuel pressure to verify a leak at the injector or intake.
    • No F-bdy Bs
      SERCICE ESC message?

      By No F-bdy Bs · Posted

      Got this yesterday out of nowhere. Truck is a 25',6.6 gasser with 8k miles.  Only semi anomaly is that the truck had been sitting, uncranked for 6 days. Elec Stability Control showed immediately upon cranking, not while driving. No drivability issues, just the message. Battery didn't seem to be weak when cranking over.  I drove it, killed it, let it sit a few hrs with no avail.  Truck is 100% stock. No damage. 
    • newdude
      on-wheel cellphone control: 2026 1500 WT (2.7L 4WD std cab)

      By newdude · Posted

      This can be done.  It is not cheap and requires an instrument cluster swap with custom programming, new steering wheel with the controls on it, and a special jumper harness.   The cluster upgrade - 12.3” Digital Cluster Upgrade – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The wheel upgrade - Steering Wheel Upgrade Kit – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The column harness upgrade - 2019 - 2026 Silverado / Sierra: Steering Wheel LIN Bus Harness - Harness Dr. - DIY Done Right     The problem with doing all of this?  You pretty much can't have any programming done to your truck that involves the cluster ever again.  The dealer won't be able to program the cluster as GM's system will only pull data for the cluster the truck came with.  So it would be advised also to turn off over the air updates.   TLDR;  Should have bought an LT double cab?  You'd have a power seat, the wheel controls, the cluster, all things that you've been seeking in your various posts so far about your new WT regular cab.  
    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      I was unaware of that, thanks for updating me.
    • newdude
      2026 TurboMax L3B 2.7L: AFM/DFM present/disablable? [2026 Silverado 1500WT: 4WD RC RB 2.7L]3GCNKAEK9TG345558

      By newdude · Posted

      Yes.  The 2.7 Turbomax has Active Fuel Management.  It is NOT the same as the V8s.  Totally different system.     Here is an article from GM when the 2.7 came out explaining the cylinder deactivation and the valve lift system.  Starts at the section called "SCS Valvetrain":   New Turbocharged 2.7L 4-Cylinder Engine Powers Full-Size Trucks – TechLink         This is an internet myth going around.  It was alleged that some 5.3s had this mystical 8th digit of the VIN as an "E" which somehow meant it had a new one year only 5.3 that didn't have DFM.  The writer of said article and the person that made the claim conveniently can't count because they posted the VIN.  The 8th digit was a "D" which meant its still the 5.3 with DFM.  The 9th digit of the VIN was an "E" and the 9th digit isn't the engine code.  At all.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...