Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

You connect the wiring harness like you would normally do. When your done, program your homelink with the remote it comes with. Just like your programming a garage door opener. To be honest, Id rather have a switch hard wired. While driving I have to press the button a few times before the lightbar turns on.

 

Thanks for the input man

Posted (edited)

I found this terminal. It looks the same as the one on the wire part. Anyone got any thoughts on this?

 

I don't know that it fits but I think I'm going to start here before I drop $40 plus for the gm oem.

 

https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2207797/?gclid=CjwKEAiAuKy1BRCY5bTuvPeopXcSJAAq4OVsa9DpOT2Xamn5FeFI3J3Eqa0ykQkEdR4fbFn81vJa4RoC9C7w_wcB

 

EDIT: Found them cheaper here: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/962885-1/A105237CT-ND/3440492

 

I ordered them. I will post a follow up when I check the fit.

Edited by arkiehou02
  • Like 3
Posted

I found this terminal. It looks the same as the one on the wire part. Anyone got any thoughts on this?

 

I don't know that it fits but I think I'm going to start here before I drop $40 plus for the gm oem.

 

https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2207797/?gclid=CjwKEAiAuKy1BRCY5bTuvPeopXcSJAAq4OVsa9DpOT2Xamn5FeFI3J3Eqa0ykQkEdR4fbFn81vJa4RoC9C7w_wcB

 

EDIT: Found them cheaper here: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/962885-1/A105237CT-ND/3440492

 

I ordered them. I will post a follow up when I check the fit.

They look very similar, hopefully they will work!

Posted

I found this terminal. It looks the same as the one on the wire part. Anyone got any thoughts on this?

 

I don't know that it fits but I think I'm going to start here before I drop $40 plus for the gm oem.

 

https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2207797/?gclid=CjwKEAiAuKy1BRCY5bTuvPeopXcSJAAq4OVsa9DpOT2Xamn5FeFI3J3Eqa0ykQkEdR4fbFn81vJa4RoC9C7w_wcB

 

EDIT: Found them cheaper here: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/962885-1/A105237CT-ND/3440492

 

I ordered them. I will post a follow up when I check the fit.

any updates on this?

Posted (edited)

any updates on this?

I did get them in and they look similar. I am still waiting on lights and my new switch before I dig into the dash thought. I will look tonight and see if there is a similar plug visible somewhere else.

Edited by arkiehou02
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I did get them in and they look similar. I am still waiting on lights and my new switch before I dig into the dash thought. I will look tonight and see if there is a similar plug visible somewhere else.

 

Did you ever get this installed?

Posted

 

Did you ever get this installed?

It's still a no. I have lights but I'm still waiting on the switch and latching relays. The switch will be here next week but the relays are coming from China. I will try and break into the dash when the switch comes in. I need to look for a spot door the latching relays anyway.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I just posted this on colton_m's original post...

I think that I have found a solution for using the OEM Momentary switches to control accessories such as light bars. I have decided to use the 23145202 switch as I have the adjustable pedals. This switch gives me 3 open slots to use. The issue with the switches is that being momentary they will not operate a standard relay. Upon searching I found these latching relay boards that come from China and cost $3 each. I picked up four of them to try, they are 12V boards that use a low input, so when the input is grounded, the relay activates and latches, until the input received another low signal. I assembled 3 of them in a case made a harness for them.attachicon.gifimage.jpeg

attachicon.gifimage.jpeg

I am modifying the switch to have the correct icon too. attachicon.gifimage.jpeg

 

This looks great -- nice work!

Where did you get the stickers?

Posted

 

This looks great -- nice work!

Where did you get the stickers?

My wife cut them using her vinyl cutter.

 

 

So I started installing everything yesterday and discovered that my truck has the 2nd harness for the exhaust brake port, even though the original switch has a blank port. I think this could be a good thing and maybe I can just add a fuse/relay and utilize existing hardware in the truck. At the very least I now have wires to tap into for that last switch. Anyone have schematics for the exhaust brake?

post-153411-0-86921500-1457627027_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-60599700-1457627039_thumb.jpeg

I also took pictures of the main connector to see if we can find the connector and the correct pins. post-153411-0-84163900-1457627051_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-86921500-1457627027_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-60599700-1457627039_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-84163900-1457627051_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-86921500-1457627027_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-60599700-1457627039_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-84163900-1457627051_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-86921500-1457627027_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-60599700-1457627039_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-84163900-1457627051_thumb.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

My wife cut them using her vinyl cutter.

 

 

So I started installing everything yesterday and discovered that my truck has the 2nd harness for the exhaust brake port, even though the original switch has a blank port. I think this could be a good thing and maybe I can just add a fuse/relay and utilize existing hardware in the truck. At the very least I now have wires to tap into for that last switch. Anyone have schematics for the exhaust brake?

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

I also took pictures of the main connector to see if we can find the connector and the correct pins. image.jpeg

That's interesting that the connector was there even though it was a blank. The wires were there too? I wonder where they leed?

 

I would think once hooked up you could just ground one wire and test with one of the latching relays. Just use the process of elimination.

I don't really understand why the connector has so many pins. The exhaust brake is not a variable thing is it? (Multiple presses don't mean different things do they?)

 

On a side note, I am about ready to crack mine open too. I don't have all my lights in yet but I got a box with 6 relay ports so I can just run all my wires and be ready for lights as they come in.

Edited by arkiehou02
Posted

So did you just add wires to all of the pins in the exhaust brake connector. That's interesting that the connector was there even though it was a blank.

I would think once hooked up you could just ground one wire and test with one of the latching relays. Just use the process of elimination.

I don't really understand why the connector has so many pins. The exhaust brake is not a variable thing is it? (Multiple presses don't mean different things do they?)

On a side note, I am about ready to crack mine open too. I don't have all my lights in yet but I got a box with 6 relay ports so I can just run all my wires and be ready for lights as they come in.

I didn't add any wires to the brake controller connection, it is a complete harness. That's why I am thinking I can just find the stock relay location and utilize the OEM wiring, instead of taping into the wires at the plug. But if not then I will use wire taps and connect my switch trigger to the switch output and then my output to the relay will connect to the indicator ground.

 

I have everything connected and it all works great! I will have to modify the schematic just to show that the low output from my latching relays is also run to the switch for the indicator lights, so I used two wires for each switch. I have a video that I will try to post later. Everything works just like it would from the factory. Here are a few pics of the wiring while I was installing.

 

post-153411-0-59264900-1458156453_thumb.jpeg module mounted under steering wheel

post-153411-0-10790100-1458156466_thumb.jpeg harness to power/ground and relays

post-153411-0-34581700-1458156499_thumb.jpeg harness showing plug for module and wires to OEM connector

post-153411-0-62086000-1458156483_thumb.jpeg switch installed

post-153411-0-59264900-1458156453_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-10790100-1458156466_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-62086000-1458156483_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-34581700-1458156499_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-59264900-1458156453_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-10790100-1458156466_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-62086000-1458156483_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-34581700-1458156499_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-59264900-1458156453_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-10790100-1458156466_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-62086000-1458156483_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-34581700-1458156499_thumb.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

 

Did you ever get this installed?

Ok finally got it opened up. I removed one of the wires to look at them side by side.

6d82fcdb94a9f41ad7b8193a22e77a0b.jpg

f713381bfc630ccae5d9a391dd36aafd.jpg

They look the exact same. Only a slight variation on the clip but they should fit just fine.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Edited by arkiehou02
Posted

Azelkhunter do you actually have adjustable pedals? I don't and was wanting to use them as my fourth switch. Only problem I see is one pin moves pedals up and another moves them down. Should I tap both wires and bring both to the latching relay? Lane departure and park assist aught to be strait forward. I'm right there with you on the exhaust brakes though. Mine had the harness as well which was a pleasant surprise.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

Azelkhunter do you actually have adjustable pedals? I don't and was wanting to use them as my fourth switch. Only problem I see is one pin moves pedals up and another moves them down. Should I tap both wires and bring both to the latching relay? Lane departure and park assist aught to be strait forward. I'm right there with you on the exhaust brakes though. Mine had the harness as well which was a pleasant surprise.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Ok so I said that park assist and lane departure should be straight forward. But I looked at the pin list some more and there are 2 pins for these also. Do pins 5 and 6 control the led light on the front of the switch? Did you get yours working?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes I agree, its what amounts to free advertising to let people know about his UOA testing company, and not that there is anything wrong with that but certainly that is a motivator for putting out videos about the science of oil as well as other topics such as oil and air filtration etc. The interesting part I found with his last video is not only the physics behind the reason for the varying wear due to a diesels working torque range causing more bearing load and that higher viscosity oil is of benefit, it was also that the chemistry behind the GM Dexos 0W-20 and the Mobil Dexos licensed 0W-20 are far enough apart that its showing up with a difference in wear even though the two oils are matched in viscosity and in that comparison viscosity was not having the finger pointed at it.    There are a few youtubers out there or one anyway that I have watched a bit of who has gone through the pains of accessing various countries manuals for a certain engine platform and while in the US/Canada it may say use 0W-20 or what have you for some Toyota product, in some other countries it sings a very different tune for the very same engine with the typical traditional oil viscosity/ambient temperature charts to help choose which oil viscosity is correct for the conditions the vehicle will be used in and in some cases its taken an engine in a US manual that states only use 0W-20 as per warranty coverage and yet that same engine in certain other countries may have up to a 15W-40 etc oil option that meets the spec. Another words the guy who is driving through Death Valley or Phoenix and south weather at 120f is often being fed a line of bs by the US system that has forced vehicle companies to restrict the warranty to a specific low viscosity oil for anterior reasons as well as the long drain interval suggestions.    Thankfully youtube is free ( yet anyway ) for viewers to sift through information and of course comes with the good and the bad ( truth and lies ) and we can choose to turn off/not watch what a person finds is bs or just not interested in the topic.         
    • No doubt... But, as someone who doesn't pay for his services, but who has provided a few views/clicks on his Youtube platform, the data around the Mobil oil testing I think does have some value including to "freeloaders" like me.   A lot of what he's doing is likely showing the OE's work in their oil selection, something that many of us had kind of assumed was true all along, a good balance of both excellent protection and efficiency.
    • Lake Speed is drumming up business for his company just by being in the spot-light so he has a vested interest in stoking the 0W-20 fire.  IMO  
    • I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 
    • I agree with this assessment. As you know I’m testing longevity with vehicles for the first time. I have a few vehicles I passed to kids and grandkids. We’re all past 100K miles some approaching 170K. I’m the only one doing 5k oil changes. The rest whatever the minder says. I’m the only one doing frequent transmission service. My odyssey the trip vehicle at 200K will be finished as a trip vehicle. I recently changed to high mileage oil, Valvoline. I can’t get past the fact that all manufacturers want to claim long service life. I just don’t make sense that they would go with low weight oil for mileage. While sacrificing longevity.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...