Jump to content

AUX switch install

smcgillis10

By smcgillis10
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

AZelkhunter Enthusiast

AZelkhunter

Posted
Posted

Ok finally got it opened up. I removed one of the wires to look at them side by side. 6d82fcdb94a9f41ad7b8193a22e77a0b.jpgf713381bfc630ccae5d9a391dd36aafd.jpg

They look the exact same. Only a slight variation on the clip but they should fit just fine.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

That's awesome! Nice find!

 

Azelkhunter do you actually have adjustable pedals? I don't and was wanting to use them as my fourth switch. Only problem I see is one pin moves pedals up and another moves them down. Should I tap both wires and bring both to the latching relay? Lane departure and park assist aught to be strait forward. I'm right there with you on the exhaust brakes though. Mine had the harness as well which was a pleasant surprise.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

I do have the adjustable pedals, which was one of the main reasons I didn't use the upfitter switch. You could easily use this switch to control two devices, which is pretty cool. Up could control one relay and down could control a second.

 

Ok so I said that park assist and lane departure should be straight forward. But I looked at the pin list some more and there are 2 pins for these also. Do pins 5 and 6 control the led light on the front of the switch? Did you get yours working?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

My indicator lights do work, I just had to connect the output to my relay to the indicator light pins (since I am sending a low input to my relays).

The pins are as follows:

Pin 1 - Illumination +

Pin 2 - Indicator lights +

Pin 4 - Downhill Assist switch -

Pin 5 - Lane Deprture Indicator -

Pin 6 - Park Assist Indicator -

Pin 7 - Cargo Light Indicator -

Pin 8 - Lane Departure Switch -

Pin 9 - Park Assist Switch -

Pin 14 - Ground (this is the ground that is provided by each switch)

Pin 15 - Power Seat ->

Pin 16 - Power Seat <-

Pin 17 - Traction Control Switch -

Pin 18 - Cargo Light Switch -

  • Like 1
  • Replies 452
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Sffsks11
Sffsks11

So if everybody is wondering on how to install these auxiliary switches (GM Oem P# 23145158) without the GM upfitter diagram. I purchased the Bussmann 15303 - 5 it is a weather tight fused and relay b

tha_lildude
tha_lildude

I have just successfully fully integrated my AUX switches OEM style. My fuse block did not come with the relays or fuses, nor did it have connectors for them. I had to purchase a few new things.

AZelkhunter
AZelkhunter

Here are some pictures of the modified buttons. I had to remove all the black and white, then respray the white because you couldn't see the icon in the daylight. I am pretty happy with the way they

Posted Images

arkiehou02 Enthusiast

arkiehou02

Posted
Posted

 

 

That's awesome! Nice find!

 

I do have the adjustable pedals, which was one of the main reasons I didn't use the upfitter switch. You could easily use this switch to control two devices, which is pretty cool. Up could control one relay and down could control a second.

 

 

My indicator lights do work, I just had to connect the output to my relay to the indicator light pins (since I am sending a low input to my relays).

The pins are as follows:

Pin 1 - Illumination +

Pin 2 - Indicator lights +

Pin 4 - Downhill Assist switch -

Pin 5 - Lane Deprture Indicator -

Pin 6 - Park Assist Indicator -

Pin 7 - Cargo Light Indicator -

Pin 8 - Lane Departure Switch -

Pin 9 - Park Assist Switch -

Pin 14 - Ground (this is the ground that is provided by each switch)

Pin 15 - Power Seat ->

Pin 16 - Power Seat <-

Pin 17 - Traction Control Switch -

Pin 18 - Cargo Light Switch -

Thanks. That helps out. I am just going to tie the pedal up and down together as the switch for that button. That sounds reasonable. It won't have an indicator but I plan on using it for RGB halos that I want on all the time. But I still want the capability to turn them off. I will use the NO function on the latching relay and the button push will turn them off.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

AZelkhunter Enthusiast

AZelkhunter

Posted
Posted

Nice! You definitely don't need the indicator light of they are going to be on all the time.

 

Here are is a pic with my indicator lights on. post-153411-0-60711100-1458252964_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-60711100-1458252964_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-60711100-1458252964_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-60711100-1458252964_thumb.jpeg

arkiehou02 Enthusiast

arkiehou02

Posted
Posted (edited)

Nice! You definitely don't need the indicator light of they are going to be on all the time.

 

Here are is a pic with my indicator lights on. attachicon.gifimage.jpeg

Looks good. You got your second set of relays yet? Also what did you use to sand off just the center of the button. I haven't done mine yet. I'm going to get it all installed and working and the go back and do them.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Edited by arkiehou02
AZelkhunter Enthusiast

AZelkhunter

Posted
Posted (edited)

Looks good. You got your second set of relays yet? Also what did you use to sand off just the center of the button. I haven't done mine yet. I'm going to get it all installed and working and the go back and do them.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

I have 3 latching relays installed in the little module that I made. I am currently running two relays from those, 1 to a light bar and the other to spot lights mounted in the grill. I have one spare latch for the next accessory I find. Haha. Thinking compressor or something along those lines.

 

I used 400 grit sand paper, I am impatient though. You can use 800 grit and possibly save the white under, but it takes a lot longer than I want to spend on it. Maybe a 600 grit compromise would be decent. 400 works for sure. I wrapped the sand paper around the tip of a screw driver for better accuracy.

Edited by AZelkhunter
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Howell2133 New Member

Howell2133

Posted
Posted

After reading this thread from to back a couple times, i have a couple questions.

I ordered the switch panel 23145202 (Pedals / TC / Dome Light / Park Assist / LDW / HDC / Exhaust Brake) with plans to use LDW and Exhaust break for the aux buttons as i am using the others on my '15 Denali.

 

That being said, do i need latching relays or will regular automotive relays work?

 

At this point, i only have one light bar and plan on it going to LDW but want to hook up the EB switch and wire so i dont have to pull apart the dash again.

 

Will the lights work on the switches with the current wiring or will i have to add those pins? Looks like pin 5 is the LDW indicator and pin 8 is the switch. Assuming same answer for the EB as well with whatever corresponding pins?

EQUIS24X Enthusiast

EQUIS24X

Posted
Posted (edited)

Here's the colors I used and what the pins outs are. The numbers are the pin out from the diagram.

 

blue= pin 12(aux#1)

white= pin 13(aux#2)

green= pin 11(aux#3)

yellow= pin 10(aux#4)

 

 

Blue is aux 1

White is aux 2

Green is aux 3

Yellow us aux 4

 

F57F0534-8A15-4128-97F3-18B46A3B21CA.jpg

Edited by EQUIS24X
  • Like 1
EQUIS24X Enthusiast

EQUIS24X

Posted
Posted (edited)

Here's a video of everything working.

 

 

Edited by EQUIS24X
  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
arkiehou02 Enthusiast

arkiehou02

Posted
Posted

After reading this thread from to back a couple times, i have a couple questions.

I ordered the switch panel 23145202 (Pedals / TC / Dome Light / Park Assist / LDW / HDC / Exhaust Brake) with plans to use LDW and Exhaust break for the aux buttons as i am using the others on my '15 Denali.

 

That being said, do i need latching relays or will regular automotive relays work?

 

At this point, i only have one light bar and plan on it going to LDW but want to hook up the EB switch and wire so i dont have to pull apart the dash again.

 

Will the lights work on the switches with the current wiring or will i have to add those pins? Looks like pin 5 is the LDW indicator and pin 8 is the switch. Assuming same answer for the EB as well with whatever corresponding pins?

You will need the latching relays and most likely regular relays. The latching relays maybe fine to run them but I think the consensus was to use the latching relay to switch a regular relay. Thus leaving the majority of the current going through regular relay.

You will need do add wires to the plug. Yes, you will need the pins from the lights on the switches (indicator) tied into the NC pin on the latching relay. The pins I used in the earlier post do work.

I have not been able to figure the pin config on the EB as of yet. I believe there was 5 wires in the plug. I assume one is for the indicator and one is the positive. It I don't know either if it requires another ground out is tied to the other pins going internally. If you figure any of this out please share.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

arkiehou02 Enthusiast

arkiehou02

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ok time for a little update. I know I am incredibly slow and apologize for that.

So I ordered this relay from eBay for around $4 thinking it would be the same. Not so much! It turns out this was not a latching relay.

a34495ed6ffdfa2f0949f27624d8d534.jpg

So then I went back to the drawing board. I just knew I could find a 4 channel latching relay and I finally came across one from Amazon, and it was even on prime. d00614f3351b611b78187d4553987d07.jpg

I got everything hooked up and each of the first 3 relays trigger with the pedal button, park assist button, and lane departure button. For the Pedal button I ended up putting the pedal up and pedal down wires into the trigger hookup. I don't have a picture but I got everything in a small plastic case and added my ground wires to the output so the indicator lights work as well.

fdd0a656a4ab9c3a671bc4686a5df5c7.jpgUp next is getting my relay box wired and mounted under the hood. I bought this box from Amazon. I plan on using the 2 additional relays to turn the headlights off and just have some rgb halos as daytime running lights.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Edited by arkiehou02
Howell2133 New Member

Howell2133

Posted
Posted

I ended up opening up the switch housing today and saw the momentary switches. I ordered the latching relays off eBay and will play the waiting game. I have a pin breakout for the EB that I got from one of the PDFs posted so I have a good start except the indicator. I plan to mount everything in a battery box in the aux battery pan.

  • Like 1
arkiehou02 Enthusiast

arkiehou02

Posted
Posted

I ended up opening up the switch housing today and saw the momentary switches. I ordered the latching relays off eBay and will play the waiting game. I have a pin breakout for the EB that I got from one of the PDFs posted so I have a good start except the indicator. I plan to mount everything in a battery box in the aux battery pan.

Cab you post I picture of the pdf or a link? I haven't been able to find anything on the EB.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Howell2133 New Member

Howell2133

Posted
Posted

Cab you post I picture of the pdf or a link? I haven't been able to find anything on the EB.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Pin outs in the PDF. Let me know what you find out.

EB.pdf

EB.pdf

EB.pdf

EB.pdf

  • Like 1
arkiehou02 Enthusiast

arkiehou02

Posted
Posted

Pin outs in the PDF. Let me know what you find out.

Thanks. I posed a question about it on the HD section. I would say connect pin 4 to the trigger and pin 5 to the NC output to control the indicator light. The only thing I am confused on is how the power takeoff would function. And I need someone with the EB to answer that.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

arkiehou02 Enthusiast

arkiehou02

Posted
Posted

Someone just said: push button it turns on, push again it turns off. So I would say it is just pins 4 and 5.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,958
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    B07
    Newest Member
    B07
    Joined

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 766 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • richard wysong
      Needing this part.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Looks like it's riveted to me. What is wrong with that 1? Welcome to the Forum!
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Missing pieces of the Assembly   Detergency vs Solvency   Not the same thing. Detergency is the mechanism that surrounds solid particulates preventing amalgamation. Usually accompanied by a Dispersant whose job it is to keep those encapsulated particles in Suspension. Solvency keeps things that can be dissolved in solution.    Salt is a solid that can be dissolved. Pepper is a solid that cannot be dissolved. A detergent/dispersant is effective on pepper but a solvent is more effective on salt. As long as the solids remain in either state, dissolved or dispersed then they can be be removed with the oil upon change.    How many wranglers does it take to herd cats? Depends on how many cats your herding. How much sponge does it take to soak up water? How much water is there to soak up? Point is most oil blends start with some herding ability and next to zero sponge and recently even fewer wranglers are being sent to do the same job.    So you start with a dozen cowboys and zero cows but at the drive progresses you pick up cows along the way, but not cowboys. At some point you have more cows that the wranglers can handle and some leave the herd. Deposits. And the API has an acceptable number of cows they are willing to let loose. In the ideal world zero is the right number for he rancher but to the butcher....a few lost is fine. This cow is beat to death. Let's move on....   Solvency isn't something oils on the Walmart shelf care about AT ALL. Problem is, you motor does. Fuels driven varnish sticks rings and only a solvent can keep them in check. The bet is that the solids driven portion that plug the expander rings and the oil drain backs and VVT screens and AFM screens will be an issue long before varnish is. Not that it wont be but if they market well enough the consumer can be kept ignorant enough to either believe it is "normal" (A quart in 1 or 2K is normal) OR is kept at bay longer than the first owner is likely to hang on to the unit. Solvency cost money.    Now the OEM's have John Q. Public buffaloed into the belief that the number cows accumulated along the trail is a known and predictable CONSTANT. It isn't. Nor is the rate at which they crossed paths with them. Only the number of wrangles is constant. Or was. Each new generation of oil sees fewer and fewer of them.    So what happens when the number of cowboys is lower (lower TBN) with each seasons trail but the trial is longer (OCI) and the number of cows along that trail continues increase? (Conditions that promote deposits).    For awhile the blenders were on to something. Better bases are harder to degrade (fewer cows) but that was overtaken by a longer trail (OCI) and improved breeding (More cows) while continuing to reduce the cowboy staffing levels (TBN/Aniline #).    Marketing has been successful. We've fired most of the staff, cows breed line bunnies, the trail is ten times longer and we've convinced the boss his ranch is in better shape that it ever was.    That kids is just the cleaning side. The side few pay attention to.     
    • davester
      Needing this part.

      By davester · Posted

      hit a junkyard.
    • Z45
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Z45 · Posted

      Mann+Hummel since 1941 per their web site 
    • B07
      Needing this part.

      By B07 · Posted

      Looking for this part for my truck. They don't sell just that one piece and to get it you have to pay over $100 even used for the whole air tube. The piece the hose clamp snaps into that is held on by the screw and nut. If anyone has access to one please let me know.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...