Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Follow-up to my previous post.  TinkeringFox has identified the terminals on Page 15 of this thread.  I added some additional info.

 

  • S48A-X2 (18-cavity connector) - AUX 1 through 4 button press trigger (signal)
    • Cavity: 10-13 (10=AUX4, 11=AUX3, 12=AUX2, 13=AUX1)
    • Mouser P/N: 306-SHCM-A03T-P025
      • JST Automotive, FEMALE 1.5MM, 22-20AWG
    • - OR-
    • Mouser P/N: 306-SHCM-A04T-P025
      • JST Automotive, FEMALE 1.5MM, 24AWG
  • S48A-X1 (6-cavity connector)
    • Mouser P/N: 571-5-962885-1 (see drawing in previous post)
      • TE Connectivity, FEMALE, 24-22AWG
  • X61A-X1 & -X5 - Relay Trigger (signal) Wire (for use on small male spades)
    • X5 Cavity: 10=AUX1, 11=AUX3, 17=AUX2, 23=AUX4
    • X1 Cavity: 21=AUX1, 30=AUX3, 34=AUX2, 38=AUX4
    • Mouser P/N: 272-7116410002
      • YAZAKI, FEMALE 1.5mm, 20AWG
  • X50A-X3 & -X4 - Upfitter Relay Trigger (signal) Wire (for use on small male spades)
    • X3 Cavity: M5=AUX1, F3=AUX2
    • X4 Cavity: L6=AUX3, L1=AUX4
    • Mouser P/N: 272-7116410002
      • YAZAKI, FEMALE 1.5mm, 20AWG
  • X50A-X3 & X4 - Upfitter Relay Output Voltage (for use on medium male spades)
    • X3 Cavity: M7=AUX1
    • X4 Cavity: G2=AUX2, K5=AUX3, K2=AUX4
    • Mouser P/N: 272-7116411202
      • YAZAKI, FEMALE 2.8mm, 14AWG

 

NOTE: User CAPTADAMJ posted excellent "how to" on page 22 of this thread.

 

Be sure to review Upfitter Bulletin 110N (or newer) RPO 9L7 (LINKY HERE) pages 6 through 8 detailing the proper configuration of fuses in an X50A Under-hood Electrical Center (UEC) fitted to handle the usage of these switches.

 

-Darryl

Edited by Lethal69GTO
Added X61A-X1 & X5 and additional data.
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 3/25/2023 at 5:17 PM, Lethal69GTO said:

 

Absolutely frustrating for sure.  I am going through this thread yet one more time.  Digikey does have the information you seek, it is not so obvious to acquire as can be on Mouser Electronics.  I had to select the 'EDA Models' hyperlink "5-928999-5 by SnapEDA" which brought me to SnapEDA web site.  On it, I selected 'See Datasheet PDF" on the left side.

 

I went to Mouser and searched using the same part number, 5-928999-5.  LINKY HERE.  Below is the datasheet.

 

 

ENG_CD_929454_C26-2426561.pdf 459.77 kB · 1 download

Thank you. That's the best data yet. So I performed a test yesterday using just 16 ga wire in the connector body to see if I could get the light relay to work as I already the auxillary upfitter switch. No luck. The aux switch LEDs would light indicating they switches were on but relay for light bar would work. Other threads and YouTube vids stated these switches close to ground and that's how I wired the relay to switch the ground. I checked switch to ground function with a multi meter and it did indicate ground most of the time. Sometimes when grounded woul lose  LED indicator function on switches. I'm fed up with trying to get the upfitter switch to work so sending back. Unfortunately can't send back the 13575783 GM wires. 

Posted (edited)

I grabbed a new switch panel (TC, cargo light, aux 1-4) and thanks to the wonderful posts from @TinkeringFox, @Lethal69GTO, and @tha_lildude I've successfully wired it into my factory x50a block.

 

I got partially lucky and even though I didn't have the wires already run to the x48a block, I DID for whatever reason already have an x50a block with the proper terminals so all I had to do was run from x48a to x50a.

 

Now here's my question: what the heck is the part number for the factory relay?  It doesn't look like any other relays in the box that will fit the locations for the factory upfitter relays are 30A relays...but I'm also not finding much info on them spec-wise.  From my understanding these are 30 amp circuits right so I need a 30A or higher relay?

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.  I was eyeing maybe the GM 9815 "HI PWR" relay but the only docs I can find on that seem to cite 10A but that's probably not even reliable since it's just on an Amazon listing.

Edited by jonathanspw
  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, jonathanspw said:

Welp I think I found it.

 

According to https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/SB-10089968-2280.pdf   (GM service bulletin 15411) it is the 9815 "HI PWR" relay and they are indeed 30A circuits, so I guess that relay can support 30A.

 

@jonathanspw Great job!  Congrats on completing the upgrade.  Great info find on the fuses as well.

 

Bypassing X61A is the route I will be taking as well with the thought of using a multi-conductor cable from Automation Direct rather than running individual wires through the firewall.  Still noodling that.

 

The swapping out my factory DPN mirrors with after market mirrors having same features plus power folding and puddle lamp completed today so the Upfitter switches is next on the list.

Posted
7 hours ago, Lethal69GTO said:

 

@jonathanspw Great job!  Congrats on completing the upgrade.  Great info find on the fuses as well.

 

Bypassing X61A is the route I will be taking as well with the thought of using a multi-conductor cable from Automation Direct rather than running individual wires through the firewall.  Still noodling that.

 

I used https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TLB9VYX which worked well and fit the connectors perfectly.

 

For the outputs/load wires from X50a I actually managed to fit 12ga wire on the connectors which makes me feel a bit better should I ever have full 30A loads on them.

 

I didn't have too much trouble getting through the factory firewall boot (once I found the dang thing on the inside).  If you unmount the x61a then the boot is literally directly behind it with the main harness going through.

 

Relays and fuses come in today so I can test all the way through to my outputs.  So far I've only tested that with fuses/relays in place that the relays actually trigger from the switches (just pulled small fuse/relay from elsewhere for the sake of testing this).

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, jonathanspw said:

I used https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TLB9VYX which worked well and fit the connectors perfectly.

 

Yup.  Petty much what I purchased except outer jacket is not so thick.  Appreciate the recommendation.

 

1 hour ago, jonathanspw said:

For the outputs/load wires from X50a I actually managed to fit 12ga wire on the connectors which makes me feel a bit better should I ever have full 30A loads on them.

 

Also a consideration I had just for the same reason.  Good to know you successfully squeezed a 12AWG into it.

 

1 hour ago, jonathanspw said:

If you unmount the x61a then the boot is literally directly behind it with the main harness going through

 

Yup, thank you.  I am familiar with it as it is where I passed my mobile HAM transceiver power circuit through.  Forward thinking, when I pulled that power circuit through a small gauge wire was also pulled with it and left inserted through the pass-through.  When I pull the four conductor cable for the Upfitter signal circuits using it I think will also leave a pull-wire, never know if it will be needed down the road.

 

1 hour ago, jonathanspw said:

Relays and fuses come in today so I can test all the way through to my outputs. 

 

Awesome.  Hope all goes well.

 

Posted
12 hours ago, Lethal69GTO said:

Awesome.  Hope all goes well.

 

All went well!  All 4 circuits are live and working on their respective switches!  Also got my dash cam hard wired into RPO power in the driver's side fuse panel.  Successful day I'd say!

Posted
12 hours ago, jonathanspw said:

All went well!  All 4 circuits are live and working on their respective switches!  Also got my dash cam hard wired into RPO power in the driver's side fuse panel.  Successful day I'd say!

 

Congratulations!  Definitely a successful endeavor.

 

Posted

For those who are following footsteps of @jonathanspw, I looked up the parts on GM Parts Giant specified in previous post with the PDF attachment for RPO 9L7.  Parts can be sourced elsewhere, verify, use information at own risk.

  • Relay (4 required, choose one of the following):
    • 19116057, Relay Assembly, High Power, Multi-use, Gray, 12V, 35A, 4-Pin (GM PN 19116057)
    • 13500114, Relay Assembly, High Power, Multi-use, Gray, 12V, 4-Pin (GM PN 13500114)
      Replaces: 12088567, 12135170, 12193606, 15328866, 15393412, 19115080, 19116057
  • Fuses:

 

NOTE: Simply adding these fuses and relays does NOT automatically infer the Upfitter AUX 1 through 4 switches will function.  As documented throughout this thread, the vehicle must also have the underlying wiring in place - at a minimum between S48A X1 and X50A X3 and X4.  Factory wiring also uses X61A X5 and X1.

 

As documented in PDF attachment in previous post and the Upfitter Integration Bulletin 110N, the placement of the fuses in X50A controls the powering (battery or ignition) of the AUX switches, improper placement could damage the vehicle's wiring.  Research and verify.

  • Thanks 2
  • 4 months later...
Posted (edited)

My 2015 Silverado WT had the harness from S48A to X61A but was not connected to X50A. I installed a 6 relay fuse/relay box outside the firewall just above the Upfitter passthrough boot and tied the wires into X61A, X1. I wired the relays for ground trigger. The Upfitter switch I got has TC, Cargo Light, CNG, and 4 AUX switches. I used the CNG switch for my air bag compressor by using an ESP32 to make the CNG relay latching. The CNG switch uses the exhaust brake pin in S48A, X2. I am pulling power from X61A, X7. So here's my problem, if I tie into Battery Positive Voltage (15 amp) everything works fine, but if I use Accessory Voltage (10 amp) or Run/Crank Ignition 1 Voltage (15 amp) nothing works and the indicator lights show 3 of the aux switches on. All are switched off. These lights come on when a door is opened as well. Again everything works as it should with it tied to Battery Positive Voltage at X61A, X7.

Any thoughts?

 image.thumb.png.292d52a2fbf2adae0a29e503bb24d788.png

 

Okay, I found a blown fuse which fixed part of the problem. I still have the indicators coming on on aux1, 3, and 4 but not aux2. This happens when I open the door and goes off when I turn on the ignition. From what I see in the wiring diagram why are they not all on?

 

Edited by Larry Huffstutler
addition
  • Thanks 1
  • 1 year later...
Posted

about to embark on a similar journey...  want multiple aux switches in my 2017 Sierra 2500 WT.  

Interesting the incredible amount of work found in this thread.

 

Curious if anyone has tackled this and developed a plug play setup or is willing to build one? 

 

I'm low tech but mechanic savvy (not electrical) and i'm open to the idea of paying the smarter of the group to build out a plug/play harness.  (i realize there's info missing here, but it's just a query and to keep this amazing knowledge thread alive)

Posted
On 8/24/2023 at 5:15 PM, Larry Huffstutler said:

My 2015 Silverado WT had the harness from S48A to X61A but was not connected to X50A. I installed a 6 relay fuse/relay box outside the firewall just above the Upfitter passthrough boot and tied the wires into X61A, X1. I wired the relays for ground trigger. The Upfitter switch I got has TC, Cargo Light, CNG, and 4 AUX switches. I used the CNG switch for my air bag compressor by using an ESP32 to make the CNG relay latching. The CNG switch uses the exhaust brake pin in S48A, X2. I am pulling power from X61A, X7. So here's my problem, if I tie into Battery Positive Voltage (15 amp) everything works fine, but if I use Accessory Voltage (10 amp) or Run/Crank Ignition 1 Voltage (15 amp) nothing works and the indicator lights show 3 of the aux switches on. All are switched off. These lights come on when a door is opened as well. Again everything works as it should with it tied to Battery Positive Voltage at X61A, X7.

Any thoughts?

 image.thumb.png.292d52a2fbf2adae0a29e503bb24d788.png

 

Okay, I found a blown fuse which fixed part of the problem. I still have the indicators coming on on aux1, 3, and 4 but not aux2. This happens when I open the door and goes off when I turn on the ignition. From what I see in the wiring diagram why are they not all on?

 

You should read the beginning of the thread a little further.  What i did was only use the trigger wires from the AUX switches, and run them to latching relays.  One for each ON/OFF(2 per fixture) and the indicator light I just tied into the latching ON.  

Posted

Must have replied to wrong post I was asking what plug and play harness were they looking for 

I’ve completed my install already 

but thanks for the directions

 

cheers!

image.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,875 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...