Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Unfortunately you likely don’t have the wiring you need. There is a pass through nipple on your firewall boot specifically for passing upfitter wiring through. Stealing power from an unused accessory source like power seats, inverter power, ect. might be a viable option. Try to find an option that you don’t have and have no plans to upgrade to. You may be able to source power this way from a fused source.

Edited by TinkeringFox
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hi Guys,

 

I am impressed with some of your projects and your expertise.  I am not so comfortable figuring out how wires should be installed and really appreciate step-by-step instructions at the level of a 6th grader.  I recently upgraded my 2019 Silverado 1500  LD mirrors to towing mirrors with turn signals.  Got it done because of the help of Mr. Gamboa's harness and instructions. Highly recommended.

 

I would like to add a 30 inch LED light bar to the front of my truck.  I would like to use the GM 23145158 switch bank (stolen picture attached). Currently my stock switch bank has only "traction control" & "cargo lights."  I do not want to re-label the AUX switches, just want to wire a LED relayed wiring harness to AUX 1 to operate the LED bar.

 

I would appreciate hearing from you if you can get down to my level.

 

Selo

 

 

OEM switch bank.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 8/1/2017 at 9:29 PM, smcgillis10 said:

I'm seeing a lot of guys that want to add these switches are having some trouble.

 

To the guys with ONLY the dome light and traction control switches from the factory be interested in my building a kit for them that they only have to install it into there trucks?

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

I’m so confused .. Yes I’m going to have to have you make Me some kind of wire  harness /  relay box .. I tried on my own but ended up drinking the whole 12 pack and said I need to buy something ..  2014 Silverado with the stock traction control/ cargo light .. upgraded to traction control cargo light and 4 aux .. already installed new switch and correct wires in slots 10-14 now what .. Please help 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Here’s a relay box for the switch boards with “traction control, cab light, and 4x aux switches” has 5 spots for relays. the 5th relay with trigger with the high beams and Turn on the 2 relays I am using for front lighting.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

336058afe7facef6bb008d65ff8cb9b1.jpg

f1a764c6bbcc468e99adf23bc8b1018d.jpg

 

 

4ec744e47f75c081ec5d68c5df0edc61.jpg

Posted

So the wiring goes from the box to the lights that is the easy part for me. The part that I am having trouble with is from the relay box to the switch. 

Posted

Which wires ... should be 4 wires on your relay box .. one for switch . One for light , and two powers  that’s  what I understand  I’m having a relay box made and when I have it in hand ill post pictures and maybe can explain it better ... 

Posted (edited)

I’m thinking around the spares battery compartment .. 2014 Silverado .. email Smcgillis10  he is making mine, nothing wrong with supporting a fellow Chevy owner and yes that is where those tiny wires plug into I bought mine directly from Chevy a little pricey I think it’s slots 10-14 but you can double check it’s written somewhere on this thread 

Edited by TimmyWeekend
More info
Posted

does anyone have the diagrams showing which fuses under hood need to be relocated / installed for this aux switches?

I have a 2016 2500HD WT that came with the switches, I bought the wire harness from GM and plugged it in under the parking brake and ran it out thru the firewall.

 

seems the GM upfitter website where the pic I need  is down?

 

thanks

Posted
does anyone have the diagrams showing which fuses under hood need to be relocated / installed for this aux switches?
I have a 2016 2500HD WT that came with the switches, I bought the wire harness from GM and plugged it in under the parking brake and ran it out thru the firewall.
 
seems the GM upfitter website where the pic I need  is down?
 
thanks

The relays and fuses should go into the fuse block in the passenger side of the dash.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
So the wiring goes from the box to the lights that is the easy part for me. The part that I am having trouble with is from the relay box to the switch. 

The switch control the ground side of a relay. You need to have the relay coil hooked to power and the switch will connect it to ground Turing it on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 1 month later...
Posted

So i know this is a month old or so but people are still gonna come here and take a look at how this stuff installs, as i did 3 months ago. got around to filling in that list of switches and P/Ns on Page 1. Best I could do, still have some missing... but i hope it helps somebody else when the see it. Cheers and thanks to everybody still on this page posting all the good information. for the record, the Bold dictates the large (wide) keys and regular shows keys that are short/skinny. 

GM Upfitter piano key chart.JPG

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

I also bought the auxiliary switches for my 2016 Chevy Silverado 1500. I hooked one wire from one of the switches up to the 86 terminal on the relay. The 85 terminal is connected to the positive post of the battery. When I flip all of the switches, nothing happens. Did this happen to you?

Edited by Hudson2000

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.6k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,993
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    President Roberto
    Newest Member
    President Roberto
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 298 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I don't wanna do major surgery/upgrades, behind-the-dash work, add amps, change radio etc. on my '26 std cab WT. On the WT, it has the base 7" IOR infotainment setup, and only two speakers (doors). Since I listen to classical, looked around for speakers that do well and dug thru reviews. Two-way speakers were found to be better than 3-way. So I've ordered a pair of  Infinity Reference REF-9632IX 2 way speakers.  [These may  or may not have been discontinued / succeeded by the 3-way ...9633 ones.]    These speakers are lauded for 3 ohm and 94db sensitivity spec so they'll work well for ordinary base car radios without amps and offer better performance (quality,  strength) than  default base paper-cone speakers. They'll be installed in a few days and I'll let y'all know what I think. Bill W San Jose      
    • Thanks!   Changed out the rear shocks today to Bilstein 5100s.  So far feel much better. The stock Rancho were wore out.  Lots of heavy hauling (2 moves, home renovations, etc).  Next up is new BFG tires Monday.  Cant wait the current tires have little to no wet traction and are super loud (hum)    
    • Ok, I got the all the codes. What do you all think would be a place to start?
    • How about I just point to the factory pans stand pipe little drain plug and claim its a pan with a real drain plug !. I just couldn't swallow the fact that a Dorman pan which at this point is probably the only pan out there that fits the gas version truck cost that much up here in Canada so I decided initially anyway to skip it and see what I thought of pulling the pan method and down the road if I felt inclined enough then I would either install a drain plug kit in the factory pan if there is enough room for it, or have a bung welded onto it, or put an aftermarket pan on. The thing is if the pan is not pulled then the magnets in the pan can't be inspected and cleaned or if wanting to change out the filter. However of course it certainly would make the job easier to be able to drop the oil first before having to handle the pan if dropping the pan that go around was the goal.    I knew a guy locally that was doing custom field spraying years ago with a pickup pulling a ground driven sprayer, I believe it was a GM pickup with an automatic trans. He had a drain plug in his pan and would drop the oil out of it once a week and top it back up through the dipstick tube to keep refreshing a portion of the oil often and that made the transmission last far longer than had he done nothing. Soft fields pulling 500 gallons of water at the start of each mixed up sprayer tank batch and in low range sucking along. I imagine he got some tips from other custom sprayer outfits doing the same thing at the time and learning from their blown up tranny mistakes. Transmissions then had no lock up converter so would cook the crap out of the fluid slipping that much and it would not have been synthetic fluid either. 
    • 3.39 Kroger’s in Montgomery Texas. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...