Power Outlet in Dash

[f6pilot]

Owner's Manual is your friend...page 9-29, 9-30

Retained Accessory

Power (RAP)

The following vehicle accessories

can be used for up to 10 minutes

after the engine is turned off:

. Audio System

. Power Windows

. OnStar System (if equipped)

. Sunroof (if equipped)

These features work when the key

is in ON/RUN or ACC/

ACCESSORY. Once the key is

turned from ON/RUN to LOCK/OFF,

the windows and sunroof continue

to work up to 10 minutes or until any

door is opened. The radio continues

to work for up to 10 minutes or until

the driver door is opened.

Accessory Power Outlets (APOs)

The vehicle may have APOs in

several locations. See Power

Outlets on page 5-6.

The APOs in the console or center

seat position are powered by RAP.

They will continue to work for up to

10 minutes after the key is turned

from ON/RUN to LOCK/OFF, or until

the driver door is opened.

The APOs on the center stack come

from the factory powered directly

from the vehicle battery, and supply

accessory power at all times,

regardless of ignition key position.

If electronic items are left plugged

into these APOs for long periods of

time with the vehicle off, the vehicle

battery could be drained. The

vehicle may not start if the battery is

allowed to drain for an extended

period of time.

The source of power for the APOs

on the center stack can be changed

from direct battery power to RAP by

moving the fuse at location 10, in

the left instrument panel fuse block,

to position 11. Once the fuse is

moved, the APOs will continues to

work for up to 10 minutes or until

the driver door is opened. See

Instrument Panel Fuse Block (Left)

on page 10-49 or Instrument Panel

Fuse Block (Right) on page 10-52.

If you are not comfortable

performing this change, see

your dealer.

I don't swing that way, but I could just kiss you right now! I can't tell you how many times I had to jump start my truck because I forgot to unplug my dash cam. Overnight was usually okay, but more than that meant a dead battery. After it happened again yesterday, I was determined to find a way to make the power outlet go cold when the key was off. I actually came in the house to use Google to try to find a switched wire I could tap off of and run to a relay for the power outlet. I had Googled for solutions before but never came across this post. Like some of the others, my manual says nothing about switching the fuse to the other pins, but it worked perfectly. THANK YOU!!!

[joehopwood]

I have a 2015 Silverado WT.  The fuse panel and the fuse diagram is really a little confusing to me.  Where the diagram appears to show two fuse slots, 10 and 11, the actual panel appears to have a single slot with three pins.  There is a 50 amp fuse located to the right as it came from dealer.  So if one assumes that 10 is on the left and 11 on the right according to diagram that seems fuse was in the 11 slot.  However, I am not timid, so I tried moving the 50 amp fuse from the center and right pins to the left and center pins and that did the trick.  Not sure exactly how but it did.  Also, my owners manual does not match the excerpt given on this site. 

[Krom]

My 2018 owners manual says

"The power outlets on the center

stack and in front of the cupholders

are powered at all times. The power

outlets inside the storage area and

on the rear of the console are

powered when the ignition is on or

in ACC/ACCESSORY, or when

Retained Accessory Power (RAP) is

active."

 

Edited December 28, 2018 by Krom

[joehopwood]

My 2015 says same thing.  But moving one of the large fuses to the left changed the one on center stack to RAP.

[Krom]

Just an update, even though the manual says what it does, moving the fuse works on my 2018

[joehopwood]

Great Krom!  Suspected it would.

[brholtz02]

Broke the top off the fuse when I moved it, problem is I can't find a replacement.  The Dealer only shows a 40 amp but it's a 50 amp.  I've searched the several different parts stores online and can't find one.  Any suggestions??

 

 

Thanks

 

Had to make a couple of stops, but found a 50amp replacement at advance

Edited December 29, 2018 by brholtz02
addition

[joehopwood]

Good.  I was going to suggest try the 40.  Worst that can happen is it blows.  I seriously doubt that the circuit draws 50 amps.  Good to know Advance has them.  Thanks!

[TCSpeedy]

Love the post, solves half of the problem that I was looking to solve as well, the APO that I wanted to be RAP was constant and I’ll try switching the fuse tomorrow (too cold out and I’m always afraid of snapping the cover). 

 

Problem two though...  I have a flashing rear-window mounted warning LED bar that I’d like to keep flashing when the power is off and key out, so that I can lock my doors but still have the warning light active and visible. 

 

That means I’d like to have the rear seat APO active at all times and NOT RAP.

 

Since there doesn’t (yet) seem to be a fuse swap for this, I’m considering using one of the “spare” slots and installing a mini USB hardwire kit like this:  (which would also work for a dash cam/GPS if you wan to keep your outlets open, or for a cleaner install)

Edited January 2, 2019 by TCSpeedy
Spelling

[joehopwood]

I have not looked for that but I did notice several of these fuses with female contacts so guess it is possible it can be done.

[TCSpeedy]

Finally got around to switching the fuse from one side to the other (position 11 to position 10) and it works perfectly, as hoped and expected.

 

As far as the “six pins” questions some have had, yes this makes perfect sense and is exactly what I would have expected to find.

 

Imagine that the center two pins allow power to travel TO the outlet...  so now there needs to be a power supply to get that power there.  It either comes from one pair of pins that is constant from the battery, or the other set of pins that is RAP, or interrupted when the key is off.

 

Switching the fuse from one position to the other accomplishes that goal.

 

It makes the whole process a lot easier by being able to come here and easily find the fuse location, and a clearer understanding of which fuse is which rather than trying to interpret the manual, but that’s just my laziness talking!

 

Now I’ll continue the hunt to see if the other (back seat) outlets can be altered in the reverse way, from RAP to constant.

[joehopwood]

But I only saw three pins is the reason I questioned 6.  Maybe these old eyes do not have the resolution required to see 6 that close together. #1 pin to accessory control circuit, middle or #2 pin to outlet and #3 pin to battery.  Don't see need for 6 pins.

[TCSpeedy]

To be honest, I didn’t bend down to the angle needed to see if there were only 3, or 6 pins in there. It’s -16° here today, and dirty...

 

But 6 would allow for in/out completion of each of 3 circuits, and while I’m no DC expert, logic dictates that’s a likely scenario. 

 

I’m just happy it worked. I went through the manual again and sadly I don’t see the same simplicity for reversing the rear APO’s. 

[TCSpeedy]

20 hours ago, joehopwood said:

But I only saw three pins is the reason I questioned 6.  Maybe these old eyes do not have the resolution required to see 6 that close together. #1 pin to accessory control circuit, middle or #2 pin to outlet and #3 pin to battery.  Don't see need for 6 pins.

You’re right. 3 pins. The panel is grounded so the hot is the only circuit required to run through the fuse. 

[TCSpeedy]

Thought I’d include a better write up and broader picture of what you’re looking for. 

 

In the driver’s side fuse panel, pink 50a fuse is now in position for RAP for the outlet on the dash. It was originally in the other position from the factory, for constant power...  just pull it out and move it over. 

 

Also, for what it’s worth, it’s much simpler to slide the fuse puller on from the side rather than force it over the top. 

 

So glad I found this thread, it accomplished what I was looking for.

Edited January 4, 2019 by TCSpeedy