Jump to content

brakes lock up loud grinding clunking

jacobdecker

By jacobdecker
in Ask A GM Technician

Recommended Posts

jacobdecker New Member

jacobdecker

Posted
Posted

hello, long time reader, spend at least a hour a day on here reading and learning, my trucks my hobby.

i always try to find the answer here and i usually do except this time so im finally gonna make my first post and anything will be appreciated, lot of good knowledge on this site.

 

 

I have a 2004 silverado 2wd. only mods is spindle lift and 33s, Yesterday i had 3 people in the truck and another 1200 pounds at least of dirt bikes and guns. i was getting off a freeway off ramp and had to slam on the brakes

because there was a stop sign i didn't see. the brakes grinded until we came to a stop. when i started off again my left front break was still stuck all the way down and wouldn't come undone. so i hit the gas and there was a clunk and i was able to drive normal, but when i went to hit the brakes extremely loud grinding and clunking till i came to a stop and locked up again.and its doing this every time. so i pulled off the brake caliper , put it do the side to move my truck down the street and noticed the right side is grinding and locking up too. now i read about calipers sticking, ,master cylinder, brake bleeding, but what throws me off is when i go in reverse and hit the brakes it sound like there is nothing wrong, anyone have and ideas what could be going on? thank you very much.

00Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

00Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted

Sorry I don't have any specific ideas except to inspect everything. Sounds like something is worn down to limits, such as brake pads and grinding on rotors?

sahls01gmc Senior Enthusiast

sahls01gmc

Posted
Posted

I would look into the master cylinder. Mine would still go in reverse (although you could tell there was still an issue). What happens if you let it sit? Does the grinding/rubbing/clunking ever go away? In reverse, your brakes act differently. That's why you have smaller brakes in the rear, less demand.

Doug_Scott Senior Enthusiast

Doug_Scott

Posted
Posted

This almost sounds like a caliper mount has come undone. For example one of the two caliper mounting bracket bolts is missing or broken allowing the mount to rotate, making the caliper hit the wheel. Backing up will rotate the caliper back to its more normal position.

  • 2 weeks later...
jacobdecker New Member

jacobdecker

Posted
  • Author
Posted

This almost sounds like a caliper mount has come undone. For example one of the two caliper mounting bracket bolts is missing or broken allowing the mount to rotate, making the caliper hit the wheel. Backing up will rotate the caliper back to its more normal position.

You were exactly right, the bolt had fallen off, I replaced it but the caliper piston was damaged so I replaced the caliper and problem fixed thank you very much

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • smooth68
      Alternate wiring for Kicker sub with Bose system. (DO THIS)

      By smooth68 · Posted

      I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...