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ProjectSummit build


nadrojcote

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Posted

Looks great.

 

One idea on the gmc logo.. what about outlining it in white? or perhaps chrome to match the grill bars? It's a bit hard to read as is.

Project SUmmit... Let me start by saying what a nice Truck... You did a great job with COlor Matching and my favorite part is the wheels and tires... With that said, after seeing the pics before darkfox1's quoted response above, I was thinking exactly what he suggested... The black GMC emblem needs something... The White parts in the grill are perfect and seem to point towards the emblem in the middle, but than you can barely see it... Outlined in white or even all white would be perfect...

 

Again, Great Looking truck..

Dan

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Posted

I had a free evening last night to replace my lower ball joints. What a job that was, had to grind off the lip on the old ball joints to be able to hammer them out. Get it all back together with moogs new integrated boot ball joints only to find out that they aren't an OE fit. My lower control arm now snugs right up to the knuckle. There should be about a 3/4" gap where the normal ball joints boot would be. This also lowered the front of my truck by about 3/4".

 

I called Moog and they ran my VIN to verify they are the correct part, which they apparently are. Then instead of admitting that they have manufactured a part incorrectly they tell me its because of my lift. The lift that didnt replace the OE control arms or knuckles.

 

Rock auto has issued me a return shipping label so I'll be getting my money back and going with OE ball joints. Not looking forward to having to do this all again, but at least I won't have to grind them again.

 

 

gallery_140298_3337_608828.jpg

gallery_140298_3337_105869.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I added 1" rear blocks. This gave my truck 1.5" of rake from the fender measurements. Cab measurements are now dead level.

Great info here. I'm using fender height to estimate front and rear lift, but didn't consider cab height. Are you saying 1.5" of rake measured at the fenders equates to a level cab height? Awesome truck by the way!

Posted

Great info here. I'm using fender height to estimate front and rear lift, but didn't consider cab height. Are you saying 1.5" of rake measured at the fenders equates to a level cab height? Awesome truck by the way!

thanks, and yes for me 1.5" of rake made my cab level. I've noticed my friends Silverado is about level when you measure the fenders. The cab seems to level out with the fenders. It appears the Sierra is more wedge shaped.
Posted

Thanks for the reply! You have 2" lift in the front, and a 2" block, right?

2" quick lifts in the front and stock 1.25"+1" rear block, but my truck has a lot of kilometers so the rear leafs were sagged.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

If anyone is curious about ebay led's I have been a bit of a guinea pig for them. I've tried all of these:

 

t10 License plate bulbs

 

5W Cree - These have been the best colour and output in my opinion and they have lasted the longest. They have a very good resistor built into them, unlike the cheaper ones. 5000k-6000k

 

Fake Cree - Very blue, didn't like the colour or the ouput 6000k-8000k

 

These and These are very similar, and you will need to make sure you order lots of them as they start to flicker in a very short amount of time due to cheap resistors, they are also fairly blue, 6000k-8000k

 

I really liked the output of these ones, but they were too long for the license plate bulb housing 5000k-6000k

 

These were also a nice colour, but not as bright of an output as the 5w cree's (I'm keeping these as backups for when my cree's die) 5000k - 6000k

 

Again these had a nice colour, but ended up flickers very soon 5000k-6000k

 

 

For reverse lights, I've tried

 

Cree 30w - these have been the best, very bright, very nice white 5000k-6000k colour and the design creates the best light projection

 

Cree 25w - These are second best, but the output isn't as good as the ones above.

 

Cree 7w - Not bright enough, only projects straight back and doesnt light up the road.

 

 

With the cree 30w reverse lights and 5w license plate lights I have a very nice colour matched setup on the rear. On the front I have 5000k HID's and These 80W Cree H16 Fog's and they're pretty close to matching. I need to take some pictures at night to show how good they really look.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Ordered some bilstein 4600's for the front. Going to be selling my rancho quicklifts and rough country upper control arms. Then I'm removing my rear blocks and it should drop by truck about 2-2.25" all around. I think it will look better with my 22's.

Posted

Got my Bilstein 4600's in today. Going to install them tonight. Decided to return it back to stock height in the front and removed the rear block. Sits pretty level and looks clean with my 22's.

 

gallery_140298_3_1832996.jpg

Posted

Looks way better man. I didn't like the rake the back block created even though your cab level was good. Love the wheels

Posted

Looks way better man. I didn't like the rake the back block created even though your cab level was good. Love the wheels

 

Thanks! It's actually the same rake as before, just sitting about two inches lower all around.

On another note. How do you think 20x9 Dub Ballers would look wearing 305/55-20's on a 2.5 lvl and 1.5 bl?

The only thing I could find for a 20" on our trucks when I was looking for wheels was a guy on youtube with 20"s and some toyo's. I thought they didnt look right myself. Even these 22's seems small. I can't find his videos anymore to show you.

Posted

Yea I hear ya. I just think I want a little more tire than the 22's offer. I'm curious though because the offset on these is +35. What would 295/60/20s look like? Would they stick out from the fender super aggressively?

Posted

My 22's are +31 which is fairly similar to stock. The higher the number the more tucked into the fender they will be.

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