Jump to content

ProjectSummit build

nadrojcote

By nadrojcote
in Member Build Threads

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 122
  • Created
  • Last Reply
nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nice truck!

 

Although the GMC logo looks like its broken or faded.

Thanks! I'm not sure how I feel about it yet. I may get a white insert for it.

  • 2 weeks later...
Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

Thanks! I'm not sure how I feel about it yet. I may get a white insert for it.

Outline the GMC in white. It'll go great and make the emblem really stand out. Convinced my buddy to do it on his and it's his favorite mod he's done, other than that, I think your truck is coming along great! Looks really good [emoji106]

nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well, I rushed down to the United States today to pick up my control arms and got them installed. Local dealership was able to fit me in for an alignment but I was so rushed that I didnt get to take any pictures during install. There are a couple issues.

1. The aluminum control arms have a threaded hole in them for a bolt to hold on the brake line bracket and the rough country arms are the opposite and have a bolt sticking out of them. They also didn't include the nut.
2. Brake line bolt is in the wrong location and cause the brake line to be too tight, rendering it worthless.
3. The arms did rub the frame a little bit at full compression, I ground it off just a tad to make it not touch.

I ended up zip tying my brake lines on for now.

Total install took 2 hrs going as fast as I could.

Some observations.

1. The ball joint angle is way better for lifted and leveled trucks, even with only 2" like my truck
2. They look thin, but they are actually quite heavy and possibly solid steel arms
3. The packing was horrible, just thrown in a card board box with no padding.
4. Bushings are OE type
5. Moog Ball joints


Not much of a difference in ride quality right now, but later tonight I am going to go hit the same speed bumps that I was making a "clunk" noise going over before.

gallery_140298_3311_5483605.jpg
gallery_140298_3311_3514664.jpg

boone9 Enthusiast

boone9

Posted
Posted

looks good! I am planning on doing my head lights black as well, did you get some body to open them up and paint them or did you do them yourself. I am a little worried about doing them myself so hoping I can find someone to paint them in saskatoon

nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
  • Author
Posted

looks good! I am planning on doing my head lights black as well, did you get some body to open them up and paint them or did you do them yourself. I am a little worried about doing them myself so hoping I can find someone to paint them in saskatoon

I did them myself by baking them. If youre not comfortable doing it, I dont recommend trying. It was the hardest set of lights I've ever done.
boone9 Enthusiast

boone9

Posted
Posted

I did them myself by baking them. If youre not comfortable doing it, I dont recommend trying. It was the hardest set of lights I've ever done.

Thanks for the honesty, appreciate it. I will try get a local guy to do it, for the right price.

nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the honesty, appreciate it. I will try get a local guy to do it, for the right price.

 

I understand why the guy from fast headlights cut them open with a dremel instead of cooking them in the oven. Would have probably been easier. I also notice he makes everything seem horrible to do so that people don't try it and they give him their money instead.

 

On a side note, I got some new wheels yesterday, now Im just trying to hunt down some 305/45r22 dynapro atm's. Apparently they're on back order from hankook.

 

These are the wheels I got

 

gallery_140298_3319_1339207.jpg

 

These are the tires I'm getting

 

IMG_2624.jpg

 

The rims weigh 41lb and the tires weigh 45 lb, apparently the stock gm 22's weight around 88-91lbs so I'm pretty happy to know that I am going up a size from stock and still lighter.

nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So I took my truck over some speed bumps last night that used to make my truck thump before I got my control arms. No more thump, ball joint angles are much better and I'm far from hitting the stops.

 

I also forgot to post a picture of what I did with my window trim. I used some satin black krylon fusion instead of messing around trying to find someone to trade me. I think it gives it a nice look being semi glossy, Slightly higher quality looking than the flat black OE window trim found on base model trucks.

 

gallery_140298_3275_980529.jpg

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

So I took my truck over some speed bumps last night that used to make my truck thump before I got my control arms. No more thump, ball joint angles are much better and I'm far from hitting the stops.

 

I also forgot to post a picture of what I did with my window trim. I used some satin black krylon fusion instead of messing around trying to find someone to trade me. I think it gives it a nice look being semi glossy, Slightly higher quality looking than the flat black OE window trim found on base model trucks.

 

gallery_140298_3275_980529.jpg

That looks much better than the flat black OEM or plastidip (mines dipped). Imma have to get some of that paint

nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You should of named it projectRMK or projectASSAULT

now if I buy a summit I'll be matching! I named it project summit because of the paint color though. I used to be a ski doo guy, but Polaris has it down pat with the rmk.
darkfox1 Senior Enthusiast

darkfox1

Posted
Posted

Truck looks great!

 

I love the lighting work.

 

Do you have a writeup or any info on how you did the footwell lighting? I always feel like the interior of my truck is rather poorly lit at night.

nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I dont have a write up, I just looked into where the wire was to tap in to. Its up in the driver side column between the drivers window and the windshield. I used some old led headlights and unsoldered pieces of PCB off of them, soldered some wires to them and ran them under the dash and through the console for the rear. Mounted the rears with zip ties under the front seats.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,335 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • Grumpy Bear
      Gas Prices

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • TrueBlue
      No Software Updates - Old Build

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...