Jump to content

Accessory switches in upper left cubby/pocket

darkfox1

By darkfox1
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

darkfox1 Senior Enthusiast

darkfox1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm VERY happy with how its turned out. I'm the kind of person that gets bothered by things that look aftermarket, so for me to be ok with it is very rare. (and that makes me happier that I'm happy. :lol:)

 

As for the wire harness that was here before, the trailer brake harness, I pushed it through to the lower hole in the dash. I'll probably tape it up so it doesn't rattle when I go to run the wires for this.

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Spurshot
Spurshot
darkfox1
darkfox1

I've been trying to find a place to put accessory switches for a while. Then today I find this:     (full link to source here: http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/review/first-drive-lingenfelter-s

darkfox1
darkfox1

OK so it did make it in today! Which was perfect because it was 69 and sunny outside and I had my afternoon free, so I wasted no time!   First, a review of the OtrattW switches and switch bezel: Top

Posted Images

NitroDatsik Senior Enthusiast

NitroDatsik

Posted
Posted

 

1039af896175e39c23713408b1c714f9.jpg one of the pieces done. Just waiting on switches to arrive. The other piece has 5 switches.

Badnewcastle Enthusiast

Badnewcastle

Posted
Posted

how do I take this panel out?

I was trying to get it out last night and couldn't quite figure it out

 

Best way I've found is to pull the fuse panel off then pull firmly but slowly on the top above the left vent, it will release and do the same on the bottom.

darkfox1 Senior Enthusiast

darkfox1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

1. open drivers door.

2. note at bottom of dash there's like a logo or a symbol of some kind.

3. grab in that area and pull like the devil straight out, it'll release the clips, exposing the fuse panel.

4. start pulling the grey plastic piece out from the dash on the outside, that'll give you enough grip to get the rest of it off. The vent stays in the truck.

5. To remove the piece I modified, I recommend using needle nose and squeezing the clips from the backside and pushing outward.

darkfox1 Senior Enthusiast

darkfox1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

1039af896175e39c23713408b1c714f9.jpg one of the pieces done. Just waiting on switches to arrive. The other piece has 5 switches.

 

 

so it looks like 3 will fit. Does it gap out on the side at all? I went with 2 instead of 3 because it looked like the curve of the faceplate would make it stick out.

NitroDatsik Senior Enthusiast

NitroDatsik

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

 

so it looks like 3 will fit. Does it gap out on the side at all? I went with 2 instead of 3 because it looked like the curve of the faceplate would make it stick out.

It sticks out just a little, less then the thickness of a penny a2affac1be2c4bc0a26965bfdad52faa.jpg because the lip of the kit sits on the curved side of the panel. No gaps on the side, just top and bottom Edited by NitroDatsik
Real_Tornadoes Enthusiast

Real_Tornadoes

Posted
Posted

1. open drivers door.

2. note at bottom of dash there's like a logo or a symbol of some kind.

3. grab in that area and pull like the devil straight out, it'll release the clips, exposing the fuse panel.

4. start pulling the grey plastic piece out from the dash on the outside, that'll give you enough grip to get the rest of it off. The vent stays in the truck.

5. To remove the piece I modified, I recommend using needle nose and squeezing the clips from the backside and pushing outward.

 

still a little confused on this, but I will give it a shot once im home from work.

cheers

NitroDatsik Senior Enthusiast

NitroDatsik

Posted
Posted

how do I take this panel out?

I was trying to get it out last night and couldn't quite figure it out

darkfox1 Senior Enthusiast

darkfox1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorry, if I had pics handy I woulda sent em along.

 

One thing I HIGHLY suggest investing in if you EVER do interior work of any kind is a set of interior trim removers. You can buy a set of like 5 pieces at autozone for $15 or so iirc.

 

They allow you to wedge a "Screwdriver" into these panels without damaging them in most cases. I use them to remove this panel because the bottom finger point is hard to get off sometimes. I pry between the lower dash and the side panel and it pops right off.

 

I used them religiously when doing my console swap as well. I've alreayd gotten my money's worth out of them I think.

  • Like 1
Real_Tornadoes Enthusiast

Real_Tornadoes

Posted
Posted (edited)

I put my aftermarket brake controller in the cubby for the factory brake controller
Doesn't actually look to bad and it's out of the way of my feet getting in and out of the truck

 

http://imgur.com/LufrbA5
http://imgur.com/du2mtal
http://imgur.com/D9mStJt
http://imgur.com/HL3iuhe
http://imgur.com/SmIkAbr
http://imgur.com/20lMOp6

Edited by Real_Tornadoes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • CamGTP
      Gas Prices

      By CamGTP · Posted

      Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Atlas
      Gas Prices

      By Atlas · Posted

      Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • bluev8
      Intermittent no-code issues on 2022.5+ V8 trucks — what did the shop fail to capture?

      By bluev8 · Posted

      That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • scotthvac.net
      2022-24 halogen - led grille swap

      By scotthvac.net · Posted

      2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers
    • davester
      Replacement Radiator

      By davester · Posted

      And use RA's 5% discount code if you buy from them.  google for the code, one is always available.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...