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HID Retro Getting No Power/Output


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Posted

Hey All,

I purchased the following from TRS:

(2) FX-R 3" Projectors
(2) Morimoto XB55 Ballasts
(2) Morimoto XB55 D2B Igniters
(1) Mopar Spec Low Beam Harness
(2) Morimoto XB 5500k D2S Bulbs

I am attemping to use this configuration on my 2014 Chevy Silverado LTZ. The truck has factory halogen projectors, which I am retroing out and using the FX-R projectors.

I attempted the install the first time a couple weeks ago. Everything seemed to be working great. Bulbs powered up and looked excellent. I finished up the install and took it for a road test during the day. I drove around for about 10 minutes and noticed on my way back that the lights had turned off. Got home, popped the hood and the first thing I saw was the relay fuse had blown. I checked all my grounds first, and found one that *might* have been a little loose, so I took all the grounds off and tightened them all back up again, and made sure they were making good contact with the frame. Replaced the fuse with a new one and tried to power the lights back on. No output. No sounds from the ballasts or igniters. Checked all my connections but still no luck. Checked the fuse again, fuse wasn't blown. I tried disconnecting each ballasts and running only one, but neither combination got any output. Took the grill and headlights back off and plugged my halogen bulbs in to the factory output connection, nothing. Flipped the headlights off about 10 times and finally the halogens came on. Since it was starting to near evening, I figured I better not push my luck so I mounted the halogens back up on the truck. They've been working flawlessly for the last few weeks. So I don't think there's anything wrong with my OEM power.

I called and email TRS the next day and they had me try a few things. Swapping igniters between ballasts, trying different bulbs, and going stright from OEM power to the ballasts (skipping the harness). Nothing worked. We were both a little stumped so I RMA'd everything but the projectors and the bulbs. I also ordered a new set of bulbs just in case, figuring if I didn't end up needing them I could use them in the future anyway.

I got all the new parts from TRS this week and installed again. I *still* am getting no output at all. I tried again all the usual steps of swapping ballsts, igniters and bulbs but neither side seems to do anything at all. Plugged halogen bulbs back in, did my usual handful of headlight on/offs and sure enough, they fired up again fine.

What the heck!? I feel like I *must* be doing something stupidly wrong, but I've walked through the install slowly and stepped back through it multiple times and can't find anything wrong. I'm getting a little exasperated and frankly don't know where else to turn for help, so hopefully somebody can help me out! I made a quick video showing how I have things hooked up, maybe someone can see something I've done wrong? I apologize for the quality but hopefully it's good enough that someone will see something screwed up. Video attached below!

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMykc3mXoKc

 

Posted

Do you have a multimeter?

 

First thing to check is to make sure your ground connections are actually grounded with an ohm meter.

 

Next check the relay outputs to the ballast to make sure it's 12v when the headlights are turned on.

 

You can also disconnect the OEM input from the headlight signal connect it directly to the battery 12v to force the relays to turn on. You should hear the relays click when it turns on.

Posted

Did you check the headlights low beam fuses?

Also, did you buy the Capacitor/Canbus? I don't see it anywhere on your list.

Posted

When you show the stock ground on the bus bar on top of the battery, do you really mean power?

 

I'm sure all of those threaded studs are connected to +12v. The only available ground in that area is the negative battery terminal clamp.

Posted

Is the capacitor link necessary? I don't have it on mine, only had it for a week or so but no issues without the link.

I doubt that it's not working just cause you have the link but couldn't hurt to try without it

Posted

Is the capacitor link necessary? I don't have it on mine, only had it for a week or so but no issues without the link.

I doubt that it's not working just cause you have the link but couldn't hurt to try without it

I'm pretty sure the capacitor is only needed for the Silverado since the headlights are pulsed for the DRLs.

Doesn't the Sierra have separate DRLs?

Posted

I'm pretty sure the capacitor is only needed for the Silverado since the headlights are pulsed for the DRLs.

Doesn't the Sierra have separate DRLs?

You're right, I always forget that little detail.

Posted

Hey All,

 

I purchased the following from TRS:

 

(2) FX-R 3" Projectors

(2) Morimoto XB55 Ballasts

(2) Morimoto XB55 D2B Igniters

(1) Mopar Spec Low Beam Harness

(2) Morimoto XB 5500k D2S Bulbs

 

I am attemping to use this configuration on my 2014 Chevy Silverado LTZ. The truck has factory halogen projectors, which I am retroing out and using the FX-R projectors.

 

I attempted the install the first time a couple weeks ago. Everything seemed to be working great. Bulbs powered up and looked excellent. I finished up the install and took it for a road test during the day. I drove around for about 10 minutes and noticed on my way back that the lights had turned off. Got home, popped the hood and the first thing I saw was the relay fuse had blown. I checked all my grounds first, and found one that *might* have been a little loose, so I took all the grounds off and tightened them all back up again, and made sure they were making good contact with the frame. Replaced the fuse with a new one and tried to power the lights back on. No output. No sounds from the ballasts or igniters. Checked all my connections but still no luck. Checked the fuse again, fuse wasn't blown. I tried disconnecting each ballasts and running only one, but neither combination got any output. Took the grill and headlights back off and plugged my halogen bulbs in to the factory output connection, nothing. Flipped the headlights off about 10 times and finally the halogens came on. Since it was starting to near evening, I figured I better not push my luck so I mounted the halogens back up on the truck. They've been working flawlessly for the last few weeks. So I don't think there's anything wrong with my OEM power.

 

I called and email TRS the next day and they had me try a few things. Swapping igniters between ballasts, trying different bulbs, and going stright from OEM power to the ballasts (skipping the harness). Nothing worked. We were both a little stumped so I RMA'd everything but the projectors and the bulbs. I also ordered a new set of bulbs just in case, figuring if I didn't end up needing them I could use them in the future anyway.

 

I got all the new parts from TRS this week and installed again. I *still* am getting no output at all. I tried again all the usual steps of swapping ballsts, igniters and bulbs but neither side seems to do anything at all. Plugged halogen bulbs back in, did my usual handful of headlight on/offs and sure enough, they fired up again fine.

 

What the heck!? I feel like I *must* be doing something stupidly wrong, but I've walked through the install slowly and stepped back through it multiple times and can't find anything wrong. I'm getting a little exasperated and frankly don't know where else to turn for help, so hopefully somebody can help me out! I made a quick video showing how I have things hooked up, maybe someone can see something I've done wrong? I apologize for the quality but hopefully it's good enough that someone will see something screwed up. Video attached below!

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMykc3mXoKc

 

I've got an HIDExtra kit and one headlight is doing this same thing. I've just got sent a replacement brand new kit and so i did a full swap and still the ballast didn't even hum when i turned the headlights on. plugged the old halogen back in, lights right up. Im also wondering what the deal is?

Posted

Test without the harness (power the ballasts directly from the battery, you might need to get a few extra wires for this)

 

Most likely a harness issue.

  • 9 months later...

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