1994 GMC K2500 starts then dies while cold
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The lifter issue can be dealt with by shorter oil changes and quality oil IMO. -
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I'm putting in an A-pillar pod/gauges, and I'm asking if anybody can identify a (preferably) fuse for a switched power and illumination circuit on the driver's side interior fuse panel. Offhand, everything I checked with a test light was constant-hot, and I'd much rather uses a piggyback fuse. I can certainly find a wire, but I'd rather not half-tap. Thanks in advance for any help. -
By Texasdeere · Posted
I've put a few thousand miles on the truck and it seems to have settled where it should be. The stance looks right to me now. Before it was a little lower in the front. The truck has 133K on it. I can put a tape on it if you want some numbers. -
From what I’ve read, yes, that would be the best thing to do. However, it is very expensive and there’s no guarantee that the lifters will actually fail, especially if you’re not going to keep the truck for its entire useful life. My plan is to wait until I hear a lifter go bad and hope I can catch it without it being a catastrophic failure. At that point, they have to open up the engine anyway so that’s when I’d mechanically eliminate the AFM. Plus, there is a 5 year 60K mile warranty on the drive train. I have an extended warranty so I’m good until March of 2027, so I’m certainly not doing anything mechanical before then. I do have the Range disabler and I change the oil way sooner than suggested hoping that will get me into the 100K mile mark at which point, I may sell the truck. I don’t drive much. My ‘21 has 48K miles on it so to get to 100K miles will probably take another 5 years. Probably more because I drive less now than the first few years of ownership.
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