02 Silverado 3500 need help with the instrument cluster
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you need to become a paid vendor before you can push your products like this on forums... -
You don't have to remove both cables, just one. I would suggest the ground cable, primarily because using a wrench to unscrew/screw it on, the wrench may touch a body panel or something metal on the truck. The body is connected to ground, so you get no spark doing the ground cable. You would get a spark doing this, if you remove the power cable first. The switches you don't need to program. The module at the rear is programmed to the vehicle. There is also a relay (at least there is on my '12) mounted next to the module, which doesn't need programming when it is replaced. The silicon I mentioned is a solid gasket, that is part of the connector that is on the truck's harness (and not something like rtv that is applied to anything). It's like a thick, soft rubber seal that keeps out dirt and moisture from the connector when it's plugged in. If, when you are installing the connector onto the module after it's mounted on the truck, and it feels like you need to apply too much force to the lever, pull the connector off again, and lube that silicon gasket with some dielectric grease (I used a qtip to do this, as the gasket is down inside the connector a bit), then try instaling it again.
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By BuckWallace · Posted
With the gasser you're pretty much good to go with any travel trailer 10k or less GVWR. You'll be hard-pressed to find something that size that'll put you over payload. Even over that you're gonna be fine with most bumper pulls, but pay attention to tongue/pin weight. Depending on how far and often you tow you might be getting into diesel territory as far as how pleasant of a towing experience you want. -
Fairly new product, just picked up two bottles at Autozone, buy one get one free sale. Also sold at Advance and Walmart so far. The Restore & Protect oil seems to be a legitimate product. Now we will see if this unseats my Redline SI-1 as the go to cleaner. This product is NOT using PEA but some other proprietary chemical. Will be interesting to see some real world results… -
Had a 93 with this junk system that rarely ran well even when nothing was “broken”. This was at least in the era where you could still get parts pretty easily. You have my sympathy and when you get it running, dump it ASAP.
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