Jump to content

Kook's Longtube Header pics and a few questions


RobZ71LM7

Recommended Posts

Posted

IMG_0406_zpsdxuc4i1f.jpg

 

IMG_0407_zpsl1yitgnb.jpg

 

Installed! I'll take more pics later, I didn't take any during the install since I was in a hurry to finish up and put some miles on the truck before Lewis took off for the weekend. I'm going on a good drive tomorrow to the lake and back and want to wait to do a full evaluation until then, but overall I'm pretty happy. :)

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

How you liking the sound through magnaflow? Quiet on highway?

 

 

Sent from Off Driller Side

Posted

Installed! I'll take more pics later, I didn't take any during the install since I was in a hurry to finish up and put some miles on the truck before Lewis took off for the weekend. I'm going on a good drive tomorrow to the lake and back and want to wait to do a full evaluation until then, but overall I'm pretty happy. :)

 

Awesome, Rob.

Can you describe the install? Did you have to raise the engine off the mounts, etc.? I'd appreciate some pics of the right side to see how close it is to other components as well. Thanks much.

Posted

Well when I do decide to get headers, I will have to figure out a way to get them to CA.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Order them in a Nevada store and drive over the border to pick them up.

Posted

 

Awesome, Rob.

Can you describe the install? Did you have to raise the engine off the mounts, etc.? I'd appreciate some pics of the right side to see how close it is to other components as well. Thanks much.

They go in real easy, dropped passenger in from top and driver up from bottom, didn't have to remove steering shaft or or front driveshaft or anything. Y pipe was super easy as well.

 

Only issue is stock Y pipe and it's not bad, if you don't want to cut it up you have to remove the trans cross member.

 

I did install in under 3 hours rolling my fat ass around on the floor with truck on the ground, I have above average tools but nothing special.

 

 

 

 

Sent from Off Driller Side

Posted

They go in real easy, dropped passenger in from top and driver up from bottom, didn't have to remove steering shaft or or front driveshaft or anything. Y pipe was super easy as well.

 

Only issue is stock Y pipe and it's not bad, if you don't want to cut it up you have to remove the trans cross member.

 

I did install in under 3 hours rolling my fat ass around on the floor with truck on the ground, I have above average tools but nothing special.

 

 

 

 

Sent from Off Driller Side

 

 

 

Awesome, Rob.

Can you describe the install? Did you have to raise the engine off the mounts, etc.? I'd appreciate some pics of the right side to see how close it is to other components as well. Thanks much.

 

 

Yup very easy. It was nothing like longtubes on my old f-body which required jacking the motor after loosening mounts. I removed the steering shaft but it really wasn't needed. (I tend to always remove more things than needed because I like room and I didn't want to risk nicking the header sealing surface)

 

Here were my steps:

 

1) disconnect battery (working close to starter)

2) remove dipstick (remove bolt from valve cover, clean around penetration first and seal hole to prevent contamination, pulls out easily, note o-ring on dipstick)

3) remove passenger side heater hose bracket from valve cover

4) remove all four O2 sensors (passenger side precat O2 was the worst access but not bad)

5) remove 3 nuts on each manifold connecting factory y

6) remove clamp at outlet of y to catback

7) move factory tranny crossmember to drop y or cut it up (I used a sawzall)

8) remove plug wires

9) remove 5 header bolts on each side and pull out the old manifolds

10) I dropped in both headers from the top-so much clearance it's a joke-they almost want to fall out

 

The worst part-don't laugh were the gaskets. The Cometics matched the ports perfectly but the bolt hole pattern was off slightly versus GM gaskets and the headers. This made it a pain to get the header bolts in, but I got it done. I used a liberal coating of anti-sieze and torqued in 3 stages, center out, to 25 ft-lbs. No leaks!

 

I'm going to jack it up tomorrow to weld in the bung for the wideband and add another muffler/resonator-I'll get a bunch of pics then.

Posted

 

 

I'm going to jack it up tomorrow to weld in the bung for the wideband and add another muffler/resonator-I'll get a bunch of pics then.

Uh oh... Is the large bodied Magnaflow to loud?

 

 

Sent from Off Driller Side

Posted

How you liking the sound through magnaflow? Quiet on highway?

 

 

Sent from Off Driller Side

 

 

It sounds awesome and isn't as obnoxious as I feared. I went on a decent highway trip today with the wife. It's not bad, but a little louder than I would for a longer trip like considering I'll be towing in the future (higher load-more noise anticipated) and the fact this muffler will likely breakin and get louder. I have some resonance but it's mild. With 3.42 gears once you're at and above 75 it's alittle louder than I'd like. It's hard to describe since this is so subjective.

 

Tomorrow I'm going to add a Magnaflow 14159 race muffler upstream of my big magnaflow to act as a resonator. It arrived today, gotta love Amazon overnight shipping. It's a race muffler that's 6" in diameter and 6" long, 12" long overall.

Posted

My towing today only consisted of pulling my boat from the storage unit to the ramp and back which is 1 mile round trip. I didn't get a chance to pull it on the highway.

Posted

I like where you are going, I'm betting you and I are close on what we want for sound and levels. I'm gonna wait till your done experimenting before I do mine.

 

I prefer more of a sleeper sound that has a deep rumble to it and easy on the ears when cruising with the family but has a nice tight note under full throttle. Most people on this board think that shoving exhaust sound in your face makes the truck sound fast. Bleeding ears don't do it for me and it's the one that sounds corked but thumps the ground that you need to be worried about.

 

 

Sent from Off Driller Side

Posted

Hopefully the race muffler doesn't make it too quiet, but it's very small.

Were you able to get your exhaust lined out yet?

 

 

Sent from Off Driller Side

Posted

Were you able to get your exhaust lined out yet?

 

 

Sent from Off Driller Side

 

 

post-204-0-67926200-1441755817_thumb.jpg

 

 

Mostly. I'm delayed a little because I thought my coworker had 98-2 gas on hand that I could mig SS with, but he didn't. I ended up clamping the small magnaflow just upstream of the big one. Nice improvement and I'm done in terms of mufflers minus some welding. I don't mind two clamps in the system, but four is too much-the little muffler including the slits I cut to aid in clamping is getting welded up.

 

The exhaust sounds great. It's just very deep and roughness/rasp is gone. It still sounds very, very deep and has the sound of headers including valve noise at idle and low RPM's but it's more subdued under non stressed driving. Driving at 75-80 with the cruise on is no longer annoying. The wife noticed a difference and didn't find it annoying when we went to dinner. I just wish that little magnaflow wasn't so expensive, but it was very effective for its size. I didn't find many mufflers that could fit in that small a space as 12-14" was my longest straight run with clearance upstream of the main muffler.

 

I'm going to install the wideband tomorrow if it doesn't rain. I plan to place the wideband just downstream of the merge in the Y and run the cable across the tranny crossmember and into the cabin via the parking break grommet in the driver's side floor pan. I got an AEM wideband. I promise I'll get more pics for those interested-just haven't had the time. I'll try to get some videos too.

 

I forgot to add the only fit issue I had was with the passenger side header. One of the primary tubes made contact with the black plastic shield on the bellhousing that seals it with the starter. I simply clearanced it via trimming with a fresh razor blade.

post-204-0-67926200-1441755817_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-67926200-1441755817_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-67926200-1441755817_thumb.jpg

Posted

Nice, just did the same headers but I bought the Y pipe with cats. I also went ahead and orders the Corsa exhaust. After installing everything i learned that Corsa + Kooks LTH is a bit too loud for my liking. I need to tame it down a bit.

 

Also to anybody wanting to install headers, please and i say please go with Kooks or ARH. I had pacesetters before and i hated them. Fitment was awful, it rattled as the Y pipe was too close to the transmission support. Happy i went with Kooks!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...