Kook's Longtube Header pics and a few questions

[LTZ07]

IMG_0417.JPG

 

I have the Corsa sport, and about to order a set of ARHs. Do you have a recommendation on a certain resonator? I dont want to lose the sound of the Corsa just want to kill the rasp before I even hear it.

 

My plan is to get a resonator welded into the stock corsa Y to muffler piping and install all at once, when the headers get here. Just dont wanna go overboard with sound deading.

[RobZ71LM7]

I have the Corsa sport, and about to order a set of ARHs. Do you have a recommendation on a certain resonator? I dont want to lose the sound of the Corsa just want to kill the rasp before I even hear it.

 

My plan is to get a resonator welded into the stock corsa Y to muffler piping and install all at once, when the headers get here. Just dont wanna go overboard with sound deading.

 

Hard to say since I don't have a Corsa. Do what I did and find a long, straight run with clearance then measure it. Magnaflow and Dynomax both make small, round stainless straight through race mufflers and bullets that can be added. Mine is the Magnaflow 14159, but I had to keep the overall length to 12" to fit upstream of my muffler. It's a 12" overall length with a 6" long & 6" diameter body.

[07Softail]

a cheap short glasspack will suffice as a resonator.

 

RT

[Spurshot]

Does the kooks lt headers put the cats down under the truck where brush can come into contact with them?

[66nova]

Does the kooks lt headers put the cats down under the truck where brush can come into contact with them?

I would think any long tube would do that??

 

I can't imagine there is much choice if it's truly a long tube header. Beyond lifting the truck that is or running an ORY.

[07Softail]

Does the kooks lt headers put the cats down under the truck where brush can come into contact with them?

 

From the pics I have seen they are not far from the original cat locations.

 

RT

[Spurshot]

I would think any long tube would do that??

I can't imagine there is much choice if it's truly a long tube header. Beyond lifting the truck that is or running an ORY.

Good point. I was sent some pics of ARHs and they seem to have longer primaries than the Kooks. But yes, I suppose there's no room left to keep the cats up above the bottom of the truck. That settles the idea of long tube headers for me. I'm not going to risk setting a brush fire. Just not worth any performance gains to me.

[RobZ71LM7]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[RobZ71LM7]

http://s187.photobucket.com/user/ROBZ71LM7/media/IMG_0438_zpsrgtog9mu.jpg.html

 

Where the primary tube comes close to the bellhousing is where I had my only clearance issue. Before trimming the black plastic you see extending beyond the bellhousing stuck out and made good contact with the primary tube.

[RobZ71LM7]

 

 

 

Finally got my wideband installed. It's an AEM UEGO (latest w/Bosch 4.9) in a vibrant saddle type bung I tig welded in underneath the truck. I haven't figured out how to log it as an input to the itune yet, but I just sent my first WOT datalog along with the wideband readings to Lewis. This is the first datalog at WOT since the first stab at retuning it so it needs some work. The truck's datalog ready 12.1 afr equivalence and my wideband was at 11.8 at WOT, but that should be taken care of very soon.

 

I installed the bung in the Y just downstream of the merge. I ran the wire across the transmission crossmember, over the frame rail and into the cab via the grommet in the floor pan for the parking brake cable penetration. The connector is large so I had to cut a good size hole which I sealed with silicone from the top. From there I ran the wire over to the kick panel and up under the dash and across to the center console. Right now I just have it powered by my cigarette lighter, but plan to use a key-on power source in the future.

[RobZ71LM7]

And just so you all can learn from my ignorance-do not put the wideband where I put it. It should be right off the collector to be accurate per Lewis. Fortunately bungs are cheap and I need the out of position tig practice anyways.

[BuyAmericanIron]

You have some wiring dangerously close to header pipes. Primarily what appears to be the positive battery cable running to the starter. I would consider moving it and securing with a zip tie. I would also suggest some insulation mat around the wiring coming off of the starter. Header pipes look really close from the photos. Agreed that a wideband should be in the collector or very close.

[iCryWheniGoPoop]

I'm not sure why he would say it's not going to be accurate. I can see it being a little slow responding to changes in AFR due to it being further back though.

 

 

Sent from Off Driller Side

[RobZ71LM7]

I'm not sure why he would say it's not going to be accurate. I can see it being a little slow responding to changes in AFR due to it being further back though.

 

 

Sent from Off Driller Side

 

I welded another bung 4" behind the collector on the driver's side y-pipe. I've begun datalogging the AFR in my intune. I just need to verify that the scaling (0V 10 AFR & 5V 19.98 AFR) I used from the AEM manual has the intune matching my gauge and I'm going to send him another log. The wideband does respond more quickly and jump around faster being closer to he collector. It's also reading a little leaner. Once I verify my logs are good I'm going to send them to Lewis to have the tune leaned out a bit.

[RobZ71LM7]

You have some wiring dangerously close to header pipes. Primarily what appears to be the positive battery cable running to the starter. I would consider moving it and securing with a zip tie. I would also suggest some insulation mat around the wiring coming off of the starter. Header pipes look really close from the photos. Agreed that a wideband should be in the collector or very close.

 

It already has some heatshielding on the wire from the factory, but I agree-it's not quite as bad as the pics, but I'm going to do something. Fiberglass sleeves and stainless steel wire ties are planned.