Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Okay, Over the last year or so when I hit patches,pits,bumps etc. in the road my steering column has had a rattle/clunk in it. I have replaced the plastic steering column bearing and installed the latest ISS revision because there was a little play in it and I thought that would solve it but it hasn't.The play is coming from the inner shaft where the ISS bolts to under the dash. Any ideas on how to fix this?

 

 

Truck is a 03 Silverado 1500

Posted

I replaced the upper shaft in the video (ISS) and the steering column bearing and it reduced the problem but didn't fix it. The play is coming from the shaft that the ISS bolts to and goes into the bearing. Thanks

Posted

Mine has been doing that for 265,000 miles now. Hasn't got any worse.....

 

I've just gotten used to it at this point.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Pretty common on these years. A friend of mine had the same problem on his 03, mine does it now and then as well. He said the local mechanic told him there's a sleeve of sorts that slides over the steering shaft as it comes out of the firewall. Although I have yet to investigate it to see exactly how it works, he says the sleeve is supposed to have some grease in it and it gets dry and hence the noise. He said there's a bolt that you take out so you can slide the sleeve back and forth to get the grease back in there and that solves the noise. Gonna have to check that out one of these days.

Edited by ifixedit
Posted

Probably the same issue our 2002 Yukon had. They greased the slip joint 3 times before they finally replaced the whole thing under a "goodwill warranty repair".

Greasing it would make the problem go away for several months. I guess you could just keep doing that.

 

Ours was worse when turning to the left if I remember correctly.

Posted

Had the same problem on my 03 as I recall.. There was a sb way back when. They greased it a few times always came back. Eventually just replaced it with a "redesigned" unit. Easy to do. There is a slip shaft 2 bolts slide it out and new one in. One right at steering box and the other is right up at the firewall if I remember correctly. Borgeson makes an upgraded unit

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I had some things come up and forgot about this thread. I would like to thank everyone who responded but the part everyone is mentioning here is the intermediate steering shaft that I just replaced with the most recent redesign along with a new steering column bearing (green). I will try to take some pictures later to show what I replaced and where the movement is.

Posted

Mine has been doing that for 265,000 miles now. Hasn't got any worse.....

 

I've just gotten used to it at this point.

I had a GM mechanic tell me a long time ago that the steering rattle was nothing to worry about, but if it was too annoying they would pack it full of grease. Nobody packs it full of grease anymore supposedly because they don't have the right equipment to do it anymore, but he did offer a replacement that was expensive.

Posted

I had a GM mechanic tell me a long time ago that the steering rattle was nothing to worry about, but if it was too annoying they would pack it full of grease. Nobody packs it full of grease anymore supposedly because they don't have the right equipment to do it anymore, but he did offer a replacement that was expensive.

Do you know if they were packing the intermediate steering shaft with grease or something inside the steering column?

Posted

Do you know if they were packing the intermediate steering shaft with grease or something inside the steering column?

I have no clue, I thought they accessed it somehow through the engine bay and that was it, so somewhere on the shaft. If I remember right, there was a special grease gun they used to get it all lubed up....not sure if he was pulling my leg on that though. There are numerous youtube videos about the same problem and different solutions.

Posted

Okay the bottom thing circled in red is the top of the new intermediate steering shaft that runs down through the firewall (New with no play), The top thing circled in red is the new steering column bearing. The shaft circled in yellow bolts to the top of the intermediate steering shaft then runs up through the steering column bearing toward the steering wheel. The shaft that is circled in yellow is the one with play in it but I don't know how to tighten it up...It looks like the bearing is supposed to keep it from rattling but it doesn't. I checked my other truck and it moves to but only about half as much.

Untitled_1.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I used to work for GM, the "solution" was to grease it in the early years, I'm pretty sure that they have a corrected part now as my 2013 does not do it. The part is called the intermediate shaft, and the posts are correct. Back in 2008 you could actually purchase the special grease gun for about 15 bucks. (It was a one shot tube that looked a bit like a toothpaste tube. It is accessed under the hood, there is nothing to tighten and no safety issue even though driving it can be a bit alarming.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

isn't this the typical issue where they disconnect the intermediate steering shaft and just pump it like jacking off to redistribute the grease?

 

yes i just said that, but its because thats what its like. i had same issue as OP and took me 10 minutes to do this. i do it once per year.

 

 

 

and this, though i didn't pump it full of grease. i just jacked it like vid above. works great.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8W7TjXG_BAs

Edited by VikingTrad3r
  • 4 years later...
Posted
On 10/6/2015 at 8:47 AM, xXZ-71Xx said:

Okay the bottom thing circled in red is the top of the new intermediate steering shaft that runs down through the firewall (New with no play), The top thing circled in red is the new steering column bearing. The shaft circled in yellow bolts to the top of the intermediate steering shaft then runs up through the steering column bearing toward the steering wheel. The shaft that is circled in yellow is the one with play in it but I don't know how to tighten it up...It looks like the bearing is supposed to keep it from rattling but it doesn't. I checked my other truck and it moves to but only about half as much.

Untitled_1.jpg

I know this is five year’s old but the solutions provided did not fix the OP issue. I have the same exact issue. I have a brand new Green column bearing as well as a new ISS.  But I still get the rattle/clunk and it seems to come from somewhere between the steering wheel and the column bearing.  I know I’m taking a long shot, but curious if the OP was ever successful in figuring out how to solve the issue. Thanks. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...