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Doing brake line replacement, what else should I do?

greatmizzou

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greatmizzou Enthusiast

greatmizzou

Posted
Posted

I have this veh:

2002 LT 1500 Ext-Cab Regular bed 5.3L 4x4

 

I am needing the brake lines replaced due to the historical rust problem. I've got a mechanic doing it for me because I don't have the space, time, or equipment to do it safely. He said the bed has to be raised up in order to do the replacement justice.

 

So if I buy the replacement pre-bent steel lines to get this done...what else should I get done while the labor is already there?

I was thinking of replacing these as well:

-Body bushings

-Fuel line

 

anything else? I plan on never replacing this truck.

 

anumber1 Enthusiast

anumber1

Posted
Posted

Bushings might as well get replaced but it depends on how it comes apart. If the hardware is rusty, yep, it's worth doing.

 

Totally do the fuel lines. Since the mechanic is already going have the bed off, now is the time to just do the fuel lines. It's way less labor now with the bed off.

 

How many miles on it and has the fuel pump been replaced?

 

It's a good time for that too...

 

Also a good time to paint the frame with por-15 where it is getting rusty.

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted

Watch out for the ABS valve and computer the lines go into. If the fittings don't budge plan on changing the computer and the valve because the computer will most likely be full of water and corroded to the valve.

greatmizzou Enthusiast

greatmizzou

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Bushings might as well get replaced but it depends on how it comes apart. If the hardware is rusty, yep, it's worth doing.

 

Totally do the fuel lines. Since the mechanic is already going have the bed off, now is the time to just do the fuel lines. It's way less labor now with the bed off.

 

How many miles on it and has the fuel pump been replaced?

 

It's a good time for that too...

 

Also a good time to paint the frame with por-15 where it is getting rusty.

 

Fuel pump would be a good idea too, that has not been replaced.

 

It has about 110,000 miles, pretty light use but never been garaged ever.

 

double post

anumber1 Enthusiast

anumber1

Posted
Posted

 

Fuel pump would be a good idea too, that has not been replaced.

 

It has about 110,000 miles, pretty light use but never been garaged ever.

double post

If you are serious about it being a "forever" truck, if you live in the rust belt, give that frame a good look. My '99 has a pretty rusty frame. Last time I had the fuel tank out, I needed to replace the cross member that the tank mounts to. It was gone at the frame rail.

 

A coat of por-15 would have gone a long way toward preventing needing to do that repair.

Kubes Enthusiast

Kubes

Posted
Posted

I just finished that job.No mechanic ,in the driveway

If I was gonna do it again I wouldn't have used the gm pre bent lines

To much hassle.As it turned out I was not able to get all the lines into their original positions

I relocated my abs pump to the outside of the frame rail which then gave easy access to the fuel filter and lines

The fuel lines were also replaced and they no longer are fighting over the same space

Running all the lines in the same place to me did not make sense as you would end up with the same problem down the road.GM engineers didn't think this out with their design

I found a exact match Abs pump and modual on kijji for $60 and replaced it

The brake line that ran over the fuel tank,now runs beside the tank

2 front wheel sensors later and a good bleed,no abs scan tool either and the brakes work better then new

brucelimerick Enthusiast

brucelimerick

Posted
Posted

NO, don't use pre-bent gm line or any other. Lines are a nightmare, gm puts them on when the cab and box are off. It is easy then. Threading lines is a pain. Use easy bend, copper nickel, bend by hand, corrosion proof and as good as stainless. Buy it in a coil. Get new fittings. Flare the ends. Make a diagram of the lines in and out of the abs. Cut the lines at the abs and use a 6 point wrench to get the fittings off. A regular brake line wrench is too thick to get onto the ABS fittings. Be very careful. ABS is a $600 part, don't wreck it. It is made of shit pot metal and is corroded too. 4 of the 5 lines out of the abs need 4 bends to get over the frame and to the front and more bends to get to where they are going. Taking the box off is the easiest way to go. Dropping the gas tank is way too much work and the rear common line goes between the frame and the gas tank. Make sure the replacement of the emissions solenoid valve is done. If not do that too. Don't buy the GM one, go to NAPA and get their version, half the price. Check your shackles too. 6 months after I did my lines one broke bringing home a load of firewood. Steel on the shackles is almost 3/8". Mine were 1/16". While the box is off get the pressure washer out and blast everything. Hopefully your frame is not as bad as mine was. I may have some pictures on here from my ordeal 2 years ago. I unfortunately used regular straight lines. My mechanic showed me the easy bend. It is miraculous stuff.

B

Kubes Enthusiast

Kubes

Posted
Posted

Your right about those copper nickel tubes.

I wish I had known about them earlier .

Easy to bend and makes a great double flare the first time

You can make that line go anywhere.

It's double the price tho,but worth it

GreasyHands Enthusiast

GreasyHands

Posted
Posted

Have you decided to remove the bed of the truck? I am interested because I am next in line for a brake line replacement. BTW, I am getting weary of GM brake line engineering?

brucelimerick Enthusiast

brucelimerick

Posted
Posted

Your right about those copper nickel tubes.

I wish I had known about them earlier .

Easy to bend and makes a great double flare the first time

You can make that line go anywhere.

It's double the price tho,but worth it

When I consider how often I crawled under and back out adjusting the steel lines that will be corroded in 10 years they would have been cheap. Plus the other little kicker is GM uses 5/16" fittings with a bore for a 1/4" line. So you need adapters to use the 1/4" store bought line for the ABS and the master cylinder, then regular 1/4" into the calipers. The skinny adapters were discontinued by almost all of the manufacturers. You need them for the ABS, the big adapters touch and can't be screwed in. Sure makes you wonder who the brain dead idiot was who designed that mess. Obviously never did a brake job or used a wrench. The trip back to town after I kinked one of the steel lines would have covered the difference. I just hope greatmizzou is paying attention to our posts to avoid all the gm curves.

GreasyHands Enthusiast

GreasyHands

Posted
Posted

GM uses 5/16" fittings with a bore for a 1/4" line. So you need adapters to use the 1/4" store bought line for the ABS and the master cylinder, then regular 1/4" into the calipers. The skinny adapters were discontinued by almost all of the manufacturers. You need them for the ABS.

 

cant speak for greatmizzou, but I am paying attention. I am assuming new 5/16 fittings for 1/4line for the abs is available from Dorman or gm for the easybend. Is that correct? Not trying to highjack his post, there is just allot to consider here. Thanks

MikeInCtown Enthusiast

MikeInCtown

Posted
Posted

In the sprin of 2014 when my brake line blew out the garage replaced the line for me and on the invoice the fitting was listed separate. So at least I know they exist, unless they used an adapter because there was room for one adapter, just not more than one.

anumber1 Enthusiast

anumber1

Posted
Posted

GM uses 5/16" fittings with a bore for a 1/4" line. So you need adapters to use the 1/4" store bought line for the ABS and the master cylinder, then regular 1/4" into the calipers. The skinny adapters were discontinued by almost all of the manufacturers. You need them for the ABS.

 

cant speak for greatmizzou, but I am paying attention. I am assuming new 5/16 fittings for 1/4line for the abs is available from Dorman or gm for the easybend. Is that correct? Not trying to highjack his post, there is just allot to consider here. Thanks

Yes. Napa has them as well as Dorman.

 

Buy a ISO flare tool kit. Buy the line of your choice. Then route the lines and flare with new fittings. Off the shelf, pre-flared lines with adapters are much more frustrating than just bending new line, using the correct fittings and flaring them yourself.

 

JMHO anyway

GreasyHands Enthusiast

GreasyHands

Posted
Posted

Yes. Napa has them as well as Dorman.

 

Buy a ISO flare tool kit. Buy the line of your choice. Then route the lines and flare with new fittings. Off the shelf, pre-flared lines with adapters are much more frustrating than just bending new line, using the correct fittings and flaring them yourself.

 

JMHO anyway

 

Your humble opinion makes sense. Of course others have found different approaches doable as well. Anyway, just this afternoon picked up an Imperial ISO bubble flare kit, Imperial double flare 45 degree kit and inside and outside reamer.

So you answered one of my dumb questions. Chevy used a bubble flare. One more dumb question: Am I correct in saying an inverted 45 degree double flare and a bubble flare are interchangeable with the same fitting? Or do they each require a different fitting? And I do understand the difference wrt a single 45 degree flare, such as low pressure line. It is just these brakes and the design have past this old SBC guy up.

thanks for posting.

 

UPDATED: Just watched a video by John Peirce from AGS Company, leader in brake line manufacturing. His video stated double inverted flare and bubble flare are not interchangeable, questions answered.

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