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My solution - YUKON NOISE IN CABIN


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Posted

TL, DR get more sidewall, pay up for a real (not dealer) road force, get the print out and try to get values under 15lbs

I did not want this to get buried in the mega thread, but I was able to greatly reduce the buffeting in my LWB. I did not have the vibration issue.

 

I agree with others that this booming is in all trucks, and the roof is just very sensitive and likely acts like a huge speaker. I had it on back roads, local roads and highways, and I felt it on every truck I test drove.

 

So now I've downgraded from 22" to 20" wheels, put on 275/60/20 KO2 thinking more sidewall plus a more durable tire would help soak up vibrations and decided to run the pressure near 30 again hoping to sponge up vibrations.

 

Then, this is important, I took my truck to a high end tire shop to road force balance the tires. I paid $150, and it took 3.5 hours.

 

Most independent shops and especially dealers will spend maybe an hour max on balancing your tires. They might even use the Hunter road force machine, but getting a great road force works through iterations so it takes a lot of time.

 

For instance, before I decided to experiment with more sidewall, I had the tire shop road force balance my factory wheels. I already had my dealer to do this while I waited at delivery. Dealer did balance all tires, but the force values sucked. One tire was putting up 78lbs. The shop spent almost 45 minutes on this wheel alone but managed to get it down to 18lbs.

 

But on factory 22" that were solidly road forced, I was still dealing with too much booming.

 

Now 3 of my new 20" setup single digit force values, which is crazy good, and the fourth is 18lbs, which is still fine for a truck. For cars, you like to see values under 15lbs. Trucks can accept more force, but I still want everything under 20lbs.

 

I think 80% of my booming is gone. Now, I only notice it on the most washboard of roads when I'm under 35mph.

 

I'll hold off on the roof + dynamat fix for now, but if my results hold, I'd bet that roof fix would cure my other 20%.

 

I'll update after a few hundred more miles. Hope this helps others.

Posted

A little video from Motorweek's Goss's Garage about Road Force Balancing...

 

 

Posted

Update 2000 miles later, best change ever since long highway drives didn't annoy me like before and able to drive until needed refueling, ears didn't pop or ring

Thanks for the update...I sent you a message with a few questions. Thanks!

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I put this in the other thread, but this worked even better for me when I changed to lightweight forged 20" wheels. Now, almost all booms and buffeting is gone. I love the truck again and can even drive around with the suspension in the sport setting.

Posted

I love the truck again and can even drive around with the suspension in the sport setting.

 

 

Do you own the super rare Corvette version with the multiple suspension settings? :driving:

Posted

 

 

Do you own the super rare Corvette version with the multiple suspension settings? :driving:

 

Maybe he has the escalade version which does have a "SPORT" mode?. :rolleyes:

Posted

Bingo, driving the Cadillac in the sport setting before made the issues worse, now it is a non issue in either setting. Fingers crossed that I'm out of the woods for good without having to do the roof work. Hope others find the fixes that work for them.

Posted

 

Maybe he has the escalade version which does have a "SPORT" mode?. :rolleyes:

 

 

Hey, that's why I asked - in a cheeky sort of way - I had no idea the Cadillac's had a 'Sport' mode. Learn something new every day... :thumbs:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I put this in the other thread, but this worked even better for me when I changed to lightweight forged 20" wheels. Now, almost all booms and buffeting is gone. I love the truck again and can even drive around with the suspension in the sport setting.

Question...what wheels did you install? How much do they weigh compared to the OEM wheels?

 

And, are they truly hub centric? Reason I ask is that I have only been able to find one wheels out of the hundreds, if not thousands, of aftermarket wheels that are truly hub centric on the GM, having a 77.8mm bore. Every other aftermarket wheel that is close is something like 78.0mm or 78.1mm, or larger. But even at 78.0mm, that is no longer hub centric as the clearance to the hubs is sufficiently high to render the fit "loose". Even Hunter says anything more than about 0.004" is not hub centric, as I recall.

 

I am intrigued that lighter wheels improve the situation. On one hand,me would expect heavy wheels to absorb more energy and hence pass on less energy into the suspension and hence the frame and ultimately the body. And that light wheels would be more "bouncy" and hence more vibrations. But, more rotating mass is often not a good thing. And, how it all "tunes" together can result in resonances that are hard to predict and even harder to eliminate. I had an '86 Vette that came with Goodyear Gatorbacks (when Gatorbacks were a brand new thing) and when I installed a set of lightweight Michelin super-performance tires, the thing shook like crazy. The tire shop tried everything they could and the only thing that worked was different tires.

 

Keep us posted!!

Posted

I cut almost 1/3, 30lbs, at each wheel, since the 20" HREs 17lbs compared to 22" OEM 45lbs. I am guessing the wheels are truly hub centric, as they are custom made for any vehicle, but I could be wrong.

 

IMG_0008_zpsdo3vulpt.jpg

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Up to 6,000 very satisfied miles now, and there's been at least 11 others that have insisted on a meticulous road force balance with the same results - no more issues! Glad this experiment worked out well.

  • 2 weeks later...

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