switching to synthetic oil

[Mark Gutierrez]

Roger, i haven't gotten underneath my truck yet, hopefully its easier than a 13 Suburban, im not a thin guy so getting underneath it leaves imprints on my belly lmao. truck sits higher so i might not need to jack it up, going to add that drain valve so i can keep it super clean when changing the oil.

 

Thanks again

[Jsdirt]

I used Fram filters religiously for 25 years - never had an issue with any one of them. I've only blown one engine in my life, going 115 on the highway, 4.56 gears out back, with a billion-mile 305 up front. Spun a couple bearings there. When I tore the engine down, the big-end bearings on #'s 7 & 8 were as thin as tin foil, LOL.

 

I do like some of the postings on there regarding oil filters people have cut open. That was an eye opener for me. I use Pure One filters on everything now. Seeing is believing!

 

 

 

I saw a few mentions of AMSOIL, i've been told to try them but have been religious to Royal Purple and their Filters. I drive alot and am looking into doing my first oil change on my 2015 Silverado 1500 4x4 with the 5.3 engine. Anyone put Royal Purple in their trucks? This is my first truck in a long time, i ran RoyalPurple in my jeep and never had an issue with it as i switched to RP after 2 or 3rd oil change after i bought it.

I ran Royal Purple in my Silverado before I became an Amsoil dealer.

 

I don't think there's an oil out there that'll screw your engine up these days (besides non-detergent oil) ... unless you were to dump coolant or power steering fluid in there.

 

My father told me of this guy who picked him up hitchhiking cross-country back in the early 60's, who stopped for gas and told the attendant to top the engine off with gear lube. Thing leaked so bad that was the only fluid that would stay in the crankcase. Drove from CA to IL without a problem. I'd imagine start-up in winter would be though ...

[Cowpie]

Roger, i haven't gotten underneath my truck yet, hopefully its easier than a 13 Suburban, im not a thin guy so getting underneath it leaves imprints on my belly lmao. truck sits higher so i might not need to jack it up, going to add that drain valve so i can keep it super clean when changing the oil.

 

Thanks again

 

Ramps are wonderful items. I use the drain valves on every vehicle I own and have for just about all this century. Makes the job so much easier. I assume you are getting a Fumoto valve. With the "on the side" drain plug on most of the GM V8's now, I find using the plastic elbow that is available from Fumoto is a nice addition. Oil drains straight down that way. The old saying is still applicable today... work smarter not harder.

[jimlem]

 

Yes, a semi truck diesel takes about 10 gallons of oil per oil change. The OEM recommended OCI is about 15,000 miles or 300 hrs. I stretch it to 25,000 miles or 500 hrs safely. I average about 135,000 miles a year with the semi.

 

The GM blend is fine for the free oil change period. It meets dexos1 minimum standards. After that, I would NOT use a HDEO in the GM gassers. First, HDEO's are typically not API SN and ILSAC GF-5 spec'd, which are comparable to the dexos1 spec. Dexos1 requires that the NOACK (burn off rate) be below 12%. It virtually requires a blend to do that, though some newer conventionals are getting to that level.

 

Me, personally, I like the better friction modifiers like moly and titanium in my motor oils. Many brands have a little bit, but I want a lot. That is why I use Schaeffer oils in all of my stuff from my semi truck to my previous 2013 1500 5.3 to my current 2015 2500 6.0. Moly is akin to having a new deck of playing cards on the table, only at the sub micron level. As you push and move sideways, the cards slide over each other and eliminate any friction between your hand and the table. Moly is a plated mineral that is similar to playing cards in how it does its thing. There is no buildup, as any excess is skimmed off and remains in suspension in the oil. Titanium has a similar characteristic. One thing they both do, is that they fill the sub microscopic hills and valleys that are part of even the most polished and finished surfaces, and eliminates metal to metal contact between components. This is not to be confused with graphite and other stuff, which actually can build up and cause damage. Moly is a well proven friction modifier originally used by the military when jet engines first came on the scene, and has been used since.

 

Additives can be fortified, but that is not the only problem. A lot of testing has been done on motor oils and it shows that as TBN (total base number, or acid fighting component) decreases, TAN (total acid number) increases. TAN rises gradually until TBN reaches 50% depletion, then TAN takes off like a rocket sled and increases rapidly. At 65% TBN depletion, the oil should be changed out. While one could theoretically increase the additives that make up the TBN, the acids are rising dramatically at the same time and defeating the purpose. Just change the oil. And while all of this is going on, wear metals, silicon (dirt), and other contaminates are building up. They actually take a toll, though a minor one, on the motor internals. There is a limit at which one needs to get that junk out of there. And more advanced filtration is to going to make much of a dent on wear metal saturation. They are soluble, sub micron sized and even the best bypass filter will not get them out of the oil.

 

Are Schaeffer oils a regional only item? I've looked at the local Pep Boys, O'Reilly's, and Autozone. None carry it. The Manager at each store said they don't remember ever carrying or even remember the name. Would NAPA carry the brand? Or, is there a better online source for them? Appreciate the help.

 

Jim

[Cowpie]

No, they are world wide, but they primarily focus their marketing efforts towards commercial users. Occasionally a shop or retail outlet will carry some of their stuff. Most of us just get it thru a Schaeffer rep. You can find some of their stuff online, but I will tell you up front that your wallet will be raped by those prices. Go thru a rep and get the real pricing. You can locate a rep near you at the Schaeffer site. Any rep can get you product.

 

It is because of their marketing focus that many have not heard of them. But they have been at the oil, lube, and grease game longer than anyone else in N. America. Longer than Mobil, Shell, or whoever you care to name. Since 1839. And they haven't sit back and let time pass them by. They are ranked in the top 500 most technological advanced companies in America. They developed the lubes for the Apache Attack Helicopter and M1 Abrams Tank. They even make a specialty grease for Shell Oil that Shell could not seem to produce to meet a customer need. I have been to the Schaeffer facility and watched them fill drums with that grease and label it for Shell.

 

You can find a rep at

 

http://www.schaefferoil.com/find-an-oil-sales-rep.html

 

Or you can contact the rep I use

 

http://www.schaefferoilreps.com/dandykema/

 

Dan even lists local retailers that sell Schaeffer. When you get ahold of rep in your area, they should be able to turn you on to what retail outlets have some product, else the rep can get it for you. For getting from a rep, smallest order is a case. They do not do individual quarts. You would have to go to a retail outlet for that. A case of 12 quarts of 9003D 5w30 synthetic that I use costs me $65. It takes an order of $375 to get in on free shipping. I generally order a lot of various products at the same time for my commercial stuff so I always get the free shipping thing, along with a 3% discount for paying by check at the time of the order.