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So is there THE best level/lift kit out there?

RM3851

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RM3851 Enthusiast

RM3851

Posted
Posted

Been reading around the forums, and obviously there is a ton of "opinions" and "facts"...

 

But from more of an engineering point of view, is there really a way to achieve the leveling (and minimum lifting if needed) to achieve a setup that would not lack in a single aspect of premature wear and tear on the otherwise OEM parts leftover on the truck...?

 

If there is a simple answer and a recommendation of such product, I would appreciate it.

 

TIA

JRL1164 Enthusiast

JRL1164

Posted
Posted

Like you said it's gonna be all opinion based but, the majority would say anything <2" will be fine. I personally went with Motofab because I liked the idea of them being made of aluminum and not a composite material. But it's all preference. Both RC and Motofab offer a lifetime warranty on their products.

6D9 Matt Enthusiast

6D9 Matt

Posted
Posted

I have read a lot of people using Rough Country, and I agree I will probably go with the 2" level kit.

 

Subscribing, Id like to buy a kit over the holidays...

chevy15 Enthusiast

chevy15

Posted
Posted

very subjective! the shop that installed mine will only do Ready Lift, they swear by them. pretty sure if you get ten response you'll get 7-8 different answers. best thing may be to go on Autoanything or a site like that and read the reviews.

amxguy1970 Senior Enthusiast

amxguy1970

Posted
Posted

BTW, unless you go body lift (or actual suspension lift with new control arms and differential drop) all will add more wear on the front end. Even the venerated bilstein 5100's change the geometry and increase the CV angles, though they sound to better protect the ball joints when at full extension, they still increase their normal drive angle. For just a level I would say this is the best option but not by some huge margin.

 

Just keep it reasonable, I am going to go 1.5 front (debating if i want to go bilstein or top spacer) and 1 rear. Most say 2 or under is fairly safe and it depends on what you do with your truck. Just street driving? Should last a while. Hitting regular fire roads and work sites or actual off roading they won't last nearly as long.

 

As said before, just search. It is a very common question (as is what tire size can I fit or which AT is best) and you will always get multiple answers with people who swear this or that is worst with experience from their best friends wifes once removed uncle who had it happen or it is the best just because they bought it (BFG tires anyone?).

 

Tyler

SheeB Enthusiast

SheeB

Posted
Posted

the shop that installed mine will only do Ready Lift, they swear by them.

 

I heard the same thing from my dealer and as such had them install the RL 2.25" kit and do the alignment.

mdrew Enthusiast

mdrew

Posted
Posted

BTW, unless you go body lift (or actual suspension lift with new control arms and differential drop) all will add more wear on the front end. Even the venerated bilstein 5100's change the geometry and increase the CV angles, though they sound to better protect the ball joints when at full extension, they still increase their normal drive angle. For just a level I would say this is the best option but not by some huge margin.

 

Just keep it reasonable, I am going to go 1.5 front (debating if i want to go bilstein or top spacer) and 1 rear. Most say 2 or under is fairly safe and it depends on what you do with your truck. Just street driving? Should last a while. Hitting regular fire roads and work sites or actual off roading they won't last nearly as long.

 

As said before, just search. It is a very common question (as is what tire size can I fit or which AT is best) and you will always get multiple answers with people who swear this or that is worst with experience from their best friends wifes once removed uncle who had it happen or it is the best just because they bought it (BFG tires anyone?).

 

Tyler

I agree with your comments. I went 1.5" for the same reasons. I will swap out control arms, when they become available. Cognito is working on a set for the 2015 SD's that look promising.

RM3851 Enthusiast

RM3851

Posted
  • Author
Posted

BTW, unless you go body lift (or actual suspension lift with new control arms and differential drop) all will add more wear on the front end. Even the venerated bilstein 5100's change the geometry and increase the CV angles, though they sound to better protect the ball joints when at full extension, they still increase their normal drive angle. For just a level I would say this is the best option but not by some huge margin.

 

Just keep it reasonable, I am going to go 1.5 front (debating if i want to go bilstein or top spacer) and 1 rear. Most say 2 or under is fairly safe and it depends on what you do with your truck. Just street driving? Should last a while. Hitting regular fire roads and work sites or actual off roading they won't last nearly as long.

 

As said before, just search. It is a very common question (as is what tire size can I fit or which AT is best) and you will always get multiple answers with people who swear this or that is worst with experience from their best friends wifes once removed uncle who had it happen or it is the best just because they bought it (BFG tires anyone?).

 

Tyler

 

Exactly why I stated in the OP, looking for an "engineering" perspective. As in parts which would need to be replaced in order to not prematurely wear the parts that will remain OEM.

 

I am coming from a Subaru platform. Once you instal swaybars and end links, that is it regarding that component, the X-axis. There is no more movement side to side, and also there is nothing else that can go wrong (prematurely wear other OEM components).

 

If you per say put swaybars on and leave stock end links, then the OEM end link will be eaten away by the stiffer sway...

 

Further on, putting aftermarket springs on the OEM shocks, etc etc etc...See where I am going with this?

 

Is going with a lift kit which replaces both UCA and LCA as well as the ball joints the answer?

WildWilt15 Enthusiast

WildWilt15

Posted
Posted

Well this is an odd question, If you are talking just a strut spacer to level your truck than it will all be a matter of opinion based off of what every ones used. But me personally if I wanted the "BEST" lift/level I would go with something along the lines of the BAJA KIT long travel suspension system LOL but the difference between the two is about 5k..

RM3851 Enthusiast

RM3851

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well this is an odd question, If you are talking just a strut spacer to level your truck than it will all be a matter of opinion based off of what every ones used. But me personally if I wanted the "BEST" lift/level I would go with something along the lines of the BAJA KIT long travel suspension system LOL but the difference between the two is about 5k..

 

Haha, funny thing you mention BajaKits. Just went over there yesterday and checked out the shop. Damn. Thats all I have to say. Spoke with JT. Super knowledgable guy.

 

No products yet for the 2016s fyi (to whomever it concerns).

 

But you are right, out of their 3 setups, the long travel for the Silverado is just pure seXXX. But the base Chase Kit is all around amazing as well. All around it sits at around $4k...

Omar1 Enthusiast

Omar1

Posted
Posted

 

Haha, funny thing you mention BajaKits. Just went over there yesterday and checked out the shop. Damn. Thats all I have to say. Spoke with JT. Super knowledgable guy.

 

No products yet for the 2016s fyi (to whomever it concerns).

 

But you are right, out of their 3 setups, the long travel for the Silverado is just pure seXXX. But the base Chase Kit is all around amazing as well. All around it sits at around $4k...

 

I checked their website, it is expensive $$$!

their mid travel kit and chase kit looks good but needs more pictures and notes.

crushNchowda Senior Enthusiast

crushNchowda

Posted
Posted

BTW, unless you go body lift (or actual suspension lift with new control arms and differential drop) all will add more wear on the front end. Even the venerated bilstein 5100's change the geometry and increase the CV angles, though they sound to better protect the ball joints when at full extension, they still increase their normal drive angle. For just a level I would say this is the best option but not by some huge margin.

 

Just keep it reasonable, I am going to go 1.5 front (debating if i want to go bilstein or top spacer) and 1 rear. Most say 2 or under is fairly safe and it depends on what you do with your truck. Just street driving? Should last a while. Hitting regular fire roads and work sites or actual off roading they won't last nearly as long.

 

As said before, just search. It is a very common question (as is what tire size can I fit or which AT is best) and you will always get multiple answers with people who swear this or that is worst with experience from their best friends wifes once removed uncle who had it happen or it is the best just because they bought it (BFG tires anyone?).

 

Tyler

While I'm not a suspension expert by any means, I can say that I researched this EXTENSIVELY having had issues w/ level kit before on a tacoma chewing up end links and ball joints, and from what I understand you are wrong - the bilstein 5100 shocks DO NOT alter or effect suspension geometry.

 

They effectively raise the height of the spring perch, the angle of the control arm & thus ball joints in relation to the shock is not changed, the length of travel is not changed and the spring is not compressed.

I don't know how else to say it - just read: http://www.bilsteinus.com/fileadmin/user_upload/user_upload_us/pdfs/Bil_LevShks_WebArticle.pdf

 

 

You can put chintzy pieces of plastic blocks of aluminum between your shock mount, compress your spring, chew up your ball joints, and have a harsh ride, or you can go the route of bilstein 5100's and level it "the right way" and get a better ride and better on/off road performance compared to stock at the same time. I do agree if you want a "real lift" you're way better off doing a complimentary body/suspension lift w/ nice fox shocks or something - but I completely disagree that the bilsteins will compromise suspension geometry.

Also - there's a reason why a legit factory offroad truck like the powerwagon comes w/ these shocks as OEM...

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