Jump to content

HID kit


Recommended Posts

Posted

I am going to buying the Anzo U bar headlights for my Silverado and I want to get an HID kit for both the low and high beams. What kit do you guys recommend? I really don't know much about HIDs.

Posted

On my last truck which was a 2014 Silverado I had Anzo U Bar headlights and I bought 6k temp high and low beam HID from strictlyHID.com

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

If you have the scratch you should do a proper retrofit which involves opening up the headlight and replacing the projectors. It'll get you the best quality light output possible otherwise you're stuck using a semi crappy projector for the beam spread and pattern.

Posted

Also, there are different numbers to get. Does anyone know specifically what one I need? I'm looking to get 5000k preferably.

Posted

I'm thrilled with the stock projectors and the light array from the Morimotos.
Clean, projected tight, and bright as hell.
For 99% of us, swap out the crap halogens with the Morimoto kit, and call it a day.
IMHO, I think some of you guys over analyze and are over critical. You are making something so simple sound so complicated for others, when a simple HID upgrade results in such a huge improvement.

If you feel the need to bust apart your lights, then by all means, do it. I'm sure there is some benefit for you.
For someone like me who isn't thinking about buying a landing light upgrade for an Airbus A-380 in order to land at your local municipal airport, the Morimoto kit with stock projectors offer a straight up 100% upgrade in lighting in every catagory.
I look no further than my wife's 15' Yukon Denali for a perfect comparison.
The Morimotos in my 2500hd are every bit as good as my wife's OEM HIDs.

I don't have a light scattering problem, and on coming traffic has never shown their brights back at me.

So for those who may be scared off because its been described as too complicated, just order the kit and see for yourself.

Posted

I'm thrilled with the stock projectors and the light array from the Morimotos.

Clean, projected tight, and bright as hell.

For 99% of us, swap out the crap halogens out with the Morimoto kit and call it a day.

IMHO, I think some of you guys over analyze and are over critical. You are making something so simple sound so complicated for others when a simple HID upgrade results in such a huge improvement.

 

If you feel you need to bust apart your lights, then by all means, do it. I'm sure there is some benefit for you.

For someone like me who isn't thinking he's buying a lighting upgrade for landing an A-380 at your local municipal airport, the Morimoto kit and stock projectors offer a 100% upgrade in lighting in every catagory.

I have no further to look for a perfect comparison than my wife 15' Yukon Denali.

The Morimotos in my 2500hd are every bit as good as my wife's OEM HIDs.

 

I don't have a light scattering problem, and on coming traffic has never shown their brights back at me.

Well said. I look forward to installing my Morimoto 35W 5500K's and their LED Fogs next weekend.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

If you have the scratch you should do a proper retrofit which involves opening up the headlight and replacing the projectors. It'll get you the best quality light output possible otherwise you're stuck using a semi crappy projector for the beam spread and pattern.

 

That's totally not necessary. The factory lenses with a mormoto 35 watt, 5500k HID kit are excellent. (I got the 5500's as I was advised those are the closest to OEM 4300k's that many cars come from the factory with)

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Which one, the AT or AS?   Starfire is made by Cooper/Goodyear but at $85/tire I'd think I'd need to level-set my expectations that they may not even be round 😉 But you're saying they're decent?   I'm already into this thing $1506 in parts, fluids, etc. Totaled all my receipts today. $250 of that was replacing an EGR and MAP sensor that were probably fine, but I'm not going to return the parts since they've been installed. I'm cheap, but not that cheap. I use it, I keep it!   I may or may not make money if I sell the truck at this point, but, that wasn't really the point. And if I billed my time, I'd be hosed for real. My thought on the tires is I "might" put 1,000 miles on before selling it. I just don't want to put absolute junk on it, that doesn't do anyone any good. If the Solus solidly isn't junk, I'll definitely consider them.        
    • I leave mine as is. I'm always a trip away from riding on unpaved roads. Dealer can clean it when they prep it after I trade it in for another new truck.
    • I have these on two vehicles and love them. Pepper is one of them 😉 
    • 4WD. Far as I know it came stock with P's and not LT's. Definitely planning to put P's on it, but stock is a 109 XL load rating so I should probably stick within that guideline.   No rebates on anything I can see at the moment. Discount Tire is offering $50 off, but Pep Boys is very competitive on price, and also carries all the off-brand stuff. Les Schwab always wants an arm/leg, but they do good work.   It still has the original spare. Goodyear Wrangler RT/S, thing looks like a tractor tire LOL!! How times have changed.    
    • 2020 Sierra 2500 HD (base model) gas engine 4wd.    All 4 windows roll down on their own. Happens somewhat randomly after stop and engine off - when engine turned off, when walking away from vehicle before or after locks activated. Pulled the window fuse F14 Instrument Panel Fuse Block Right; the driver's side still activates from driver's side door panel; passenger and back seat windows activate from local switches on their doors but not from driver's side group of switches. Power mirrors don't activate with fuse removed either (same fuse for both circuits). Problem not solved.    How can they even activate with fuse removed but they are all still opening and can control from each door?  When they open on their own, I can shut them from the switch in each door, but they don't stay closed.    Seems to be activated somehow with key fob; something bumping the key fob in my pocket or just handling - removed key fob and took it far enough away and now the windows stay closed. Replaced key fob batty just in case, no change.    Sounds like some kind of wiring short or maybe electronics. Dealer will first replace electronic control module without checking anything else and I anticipate problem will still exist since their troubleshooting skills are limited to "do whatever the computer says".  In any case, keyfob seems to be activating the circuitry.    Surely I'm not the only one with this issue, but I can't find anything related on the site. What do yall think?   JohnRoy  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...