Jump to content

Audiocontrol LC2i


Recommended Posts

Posted

Just ordered an Audiocontrol LC2i to hook up to my factory radio and 4 channel amp. I was wondering if any of you guys that currently use it can tell me how difficult it is to calibrate. I know it's going to depend on what all I am hooking up to it, but just wanting to get an idea of how it is to work with. I'll be hooking it up to a Pioneer 4 channel amp. The amp will be pushing one set of Pioneer component speakers and I am going to bridge the amps other 2 channels to push a low profile Pioneer 8" sub.

Posted

Hi njs2247 -

 

I'll be happy to help in any way I can. The LC2i is a 2 channel line output converter and in order build a front stage and sub, you will need to find one full range signal pair in your truck. I don't have any wiring diagrams for your Sierra - hopefully someone on the forum will share their knowledge with you.

 

Once you have connect a full range signal, you will have output adjustments for Main (full range) and Bass (low-passed at 1000 Hz). These output adjustments are used to match your Pioneer amp's input max. We suggest keeping AccuBASS off (threshold all the way down to the left / counter-clock-wise and AccuBASS level all the way down).

 

Once your Main and Bass levels are set, you may set AccuBASS.

 

Read through this FAQ for some tips on setting up your LC2i. https://1.shortstack.com/Cx1RRJ

 

Dan

AudioControl

Posted

AudioControl 1st post hopefully you can share some info on Bose integration.

 

We don't have much Bose specific information but in general any of our processors will work well with these systems. Some Bose amplifiers will go into protect or mute when the loads are removed and in these cases we recommend loading the outputs down with resistors in the range of 100-150 ohms at 1/2 watt. This "dummy" load is usually enough to restore the amp to normal operation.

 

Dan

AudioControl

Posted

Thanks for the info Ill be installing the same LC2i to a JL audio amp and speakers.

Posted

You'll like it I just hooked up my LC2i with jl amp and jl 10wt3 , you'll need to cut the purple and blue wire if you have the 6.2l

Posted

Hooked up mine yesterday too and definitely loving the sound with the factory head unit. Now I only have it connected to a pioneer amp pushing an 8" shallow mount sub, nothing powerful like you guys, but it sure does sound good. I was also going to connect my front speakers to it but damn those front harnesses on the door jams are hard to get to from inside the truck!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

You'll like it I just hooked up my LC2i with jl amp and jl 10wt3 , you'll need to cut the purple and blue wire if you have the 6.2l

 

When you hooked up the Lc2i, did you have to use the accubass feature? I couldn't really tell if there was bass roll off or not at higher volumes. Also, where is your Bass nob positioned? Mine is around 11 o'clock.

  • 6 months later...
Posted

You'll like it I just hooked up my LC2i with jl amp and jl 10wt3 , you'll need to cut the purple and blue wire if you have the 6.2l

 

ok, i gotta ask, what is the purple and blue wire and where is it? i'm going to have to do this soon.

the only purple/blue that i know of is the video for rear view, which i don't think is specific to 6.2l.

Posted

 

ok, i gotta ask, what is the purple and blue wire and where is it? i'm going to have to do this soon.

the only purple/blue that i know of is the video for rear view, which i don't think is specific to 6.2l.

Posted

Its located at the rear passenger side of the flr body trim along side the bottom of the door. Just pop it strait up and theres a bundle of wires there its crazy to think you will be cutting a wire hoping its the right one.. im color blind and i would recomd a second pair of eyes on the color there are so many "like" colors just know that you can always wire them back if it doesnt work i heard horror stories people cutting air bag wires and sets them off...

Posted

Its located at the rear passenger side of the flr body trim along side the bottom of the door. Just pop it strait up and theres a bundle of wires there its crazy to think you will be cutting a wire hoping its the right one.. im color blind and i would recomd a second pair of eyes on the color there are so many "like" colors just know that you can always wire them back if it doesnt work i heard horror stories people cutting air bag wires and sets them off...

So what does that wire do, and why do you need to cut it? (what's unique about the 6.2l)

Posted

So what does that wire do, and why do you need to cut it? (what's unique about the 6.2l)

Its the noise cancelation, the motor rpms and sounds sytem work with one another to regulate the sound.. more or less check the back of your truck to c if u have the mics in the head rest that a sure way to know if u have it

I ment head liner...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 
    • *Your      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...