Jump to content

Electrolysis Check


FL335i

Recommended Posts

Posted

Decided to check my truck and '89 K5 GMC Jimmy for electrolysis being I've completed my K5's cooling system restoration. I had my wife start both trucks while I was taking voltage readings. Then we went through all the accessories and checked voltage. My '89 K5 passed with flying colors. Engine running everything on voltage was .18V. My truck was at .1V with everything running. During cranking the K5 had .28V and surprisingly my truck had .5V. From everything I've read .3V is the limit. Wondering if other people's trucks have .5V of electrolysis during cranking.

Posted

Negative probe on the battery Neg post. Pos probe tangling in the coolant. On the K5 the probe is into the radiator and on the Silverado it's tangling in the overflow tank.

Posted

Your next step is to check the voltage on the engine block while you crank the engine. Positive lead to block, negative lead to battery negative. You might find a small voltage, 0.2 to 0.3 volts. If so that will explain the voltage you are seeing in the cooling system and you have nothing to be concerned about.

Posted

^ 10-4. I guess the idea is the delta between the voltage on the block and coolant. Everything I've read states .3V max. Even during cranking. Might be the condition of the coolant? My K2 has 41k on it. My K5's coolant has about 3 miles around the neighborhood. And it's green :) not pink. Pretty happy with what I saw on the '89 K5 today. For as old as that truck is... I've only repaired one ground wire thus far. And voltages were great.

Posted

Electrolysis eats away metal over long periods of time. A small voltage just during the few seconds of cranking is of no consequence as far as electrolysis is concerned.

 

I would verify that the block is adequately grounded to the battery negative.

 

OAT coolants (which the Dexcool in your truck is) generate slightly higher voltages than IAT (the green in your Blazer) coolants.

 

On my truck, with Dexcool in it, I see 30 mV to 250 mV at idle with the positive probe in the coolant in the plastic surge tank (overflow bottle). The voltage keeps varying for no apparent reason.

Posted

Georg, interesting info... Yes, I plan on doing some verifying on the block grounding. I'm just wondering if the high voltage during startup is either A- higher than what GM specs and B- if the coolant in my truck is going bad. I am planning on picking up some test strips at Napa when I'm there picking parts for my trans cooler kit.

Posted

I don't think GM specs a max coolant voltage while cranking, in fact I don't think any body does. That voltage has no bearing on the condition of your coolant.

 

The test strips I have come across were all for the old school IAT coolants, not for Dexcool.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...