New truck - want to lift or level it

[seanmh]

Just got a 2016 Denali HD and I want to at least level it. I've heard from a few people and ready on other forums this could void the warranty. Is this true? Any recommendations on leveling kit or small lift, around 4"?

 

Thanks!

[MW2500HD]

As far as leveling goes, you will only be able to pick the front up about 2.5" before your upper ball joint and c/v axle angles go to crap. Also your upper control arms will be very close to the frame stops. So level between 2-2.5" or buy a true lift. How big of tires do you wish to run?

[seanmh]

I think 35s would be nice. Maybe even 34s. I'd ultimately just like a bit more height for when I'm in the mountains. Recommendations on lift?

[MW2500HD]

Depending on the wheel size and offset you use, you can fit 34-35" just being leveled but the ride is going to be worse and you'll probably spend more money on leveling then if you would have bought a good lift in the first place. In my opinion I would lift it and look at BDS, CST or Cognito lifts in the 4-6" range. They all use non torsion bar drops, so you don't have your bars hanging out. Yes there are cheaper lifts out there, but they are not the same quality as the above I mentioned.

[rocnrol]

Depending on the wheel size and offset you use, you can fit 34-35" just being leveled but the ride is going to be worse and you'll probably spend more money on leveling then if you would have bought a good lift in the first place. In my opinion I would lift it and look at BDS, CST or Cognito lifts in the 4-6" range. They all use non torsion bar drops, so you don't have your bars hanging out. Yes there are cheaper lifts out there, but they are not the same quality as the above I mentioned.

Not wanting to open a can of worms, just offer my own experience, I leveled with just the stock keys, ride is same or even better, I run 35 12.50's on the factory 18" wheels. Cost was $0 (except for the new tires of course )

 

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[MW2500HD]

Not wanting to open a can of worms, just offer my own experience, I leveled with just the stock keys, ride is same or even better, I run 35 12.50's on the factory 18" wheels. Cost was $0 (except for the new tires of course )

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About how high did you go up? Did you install shock spacers? Even at about 2" you need shock spacers. How close are you to the uca stops?

[rocnrol]

About how high did you go up? Did you install shock spacers? Even at about 2" you need shock spacers. How close are you to the uca stops?

I went the 2", I didn't add shock spacers and haven't seen or felt any adverse effects, but I will probably add some. I'm still far enough away from the upper stops that I have no contact issues, except hitting the right sized speed bumps in parking lots at the right speed.

 

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[MW2500HD]

I went the 2", I didn't add shock spacers and haven't seen or felt any adverse effects, but I will probably add some. I'm still far enough away from the upper stops that I have no contact issues, except hitting the right sized speed bumps in parking lots at the right speed.IMG_20160520_104910.jpg

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I would make sure to add shock spacers if I were you. Reason I asked is I'm leveled at 2" and have less clearance at my uca stops about 3/8"-7/16". My c/v angles were getting pretty bad at 2" so I dropped my front differential with small .700 spacers. My ride is fine in the city but gravel or bumpy roads it's rough. Now I'm going to Cognito UCA with standard ball joints and Bilstien 5100 shocks.

[rocnrol]

I agree on the shock spacers, I will get them at some point. I haven't had the truck on many gravel or supper bumpy roads yet to really comment on what my ride quality might be like in that setting, but my experience has been that if on the road your ride is good, and then is horrible on a rough, washboard type gravel road, it's typically shocks that are the issue.

 

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[MW2500HD]

In my case it isn't the factory shocks causing any issues. Its the fact that I lost some of my downward travel and my UCAs hit the stops.

[Slimpim]

Just installed this

http://norcaltruck.com/2011-stage-4-budget-uca-package

Night and day difference in the ride, very pleased. Differential spacers are next.

[Chebbyfan]

I did the Cognito A-arms and keys with Bilstein 5100s and shock spacers. My truck is factory height on the rear, and half an inch lower in the front. (All measurements are from fender edge to ground.) My keys are JUST tight enuf to put pressure on the bars, and I clear my 295/55r20s on +18 wheels great. I could've done 305/55s, but wasn't sure so I just went with the little ones. My ride is better than just cranked keys, and other than you can feel the heaviness of the tire/wheel combo, I love it.

[MotionMan]

I did the keys and spacers. I went 1.75 and kept the bolts the same as factory. Have it aligned and you will be happy. Looks 100% better and is level now, a little rear high but that's what I want... when I tow it's level. You can rent the key tool at Advance auto for free, they make you buy a used one and give it back when returned, don't try to use anything else, seriously don't risk it , it's free. But does the 16 have the torsion bars or springs. Your little sister can do that lift.

[Grumpy Tooch]

I did the Cognito A-arms and keys with Bilstein 5100s and shock spacers. My truck is factory height on the rear, and half an inch lower in the front. (All measurements are from fender edge to ground.) My keys are JUST tight enuf to put pressure on the bars, and I clear my 295/55r20s on +18 wheels great. I could've done 305/55s, but wasn't sure so I just went with the little ones. My ride is better than just cranked keys, and other than you can feel the heaviness of the tire/wheel combo, I love it.

Just FYI: you should measure from center of wheel to fender edge because difference in tire pressure could give you false reading.

[Chebbyfan]

Finally got a few pics. Only one I could get to load.