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New truck - want to lift or level it

seanmh

By seanmh
in Modifications & Accessories

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Skeld Enthusiast

Skeld

Posted
Posted

Can you run the factory mudflaps like that or would they cause rubbing problems?

Chebbyfan Enthusiast

Chebbyfan

Posted
Posted

I checked after I was done, and I don't think it would hit mud flaps. I've got quite a bit of room at that point. I just plan on getting the bottom of the truck sprayed with Line-x on the sides, so I've not gotten any mud flaps.

Skeld Enthusiast

Skeld

Posted
Posted

I checked after I was done, and I don't think it would hit mud flaps. I've got quite a bit of room at that point. I just plan on getting the bottom of the truck sprayed with Line-x on the sides, so I've not gotten any mud flaps.

 

Does it ride better than or worse than stock like this? Specifically I'm wondering about riding on dirt roads. What is the effect of the heavy wheels and tires that you say you can feel?

Chebbyfan Enthusiast

Chebbyfan

Posted
Posted

Does it ride better than or worse than stock like this? Specifically I'm wondering about riding on dirt roads. What is the effect of the heavy wheels and tires that you say you can feel?

I can't speak for gravel roads. I'm kinda picky and this truck usually doesn't go far or fast on the gravel. I will say you can certainly feel a heavier mass on the truck now. It rides good tho. Not harsh, but not plush like a car either. The control arms have poly bushings in them and seem to absorb more than the factory rubber bushings did. The control arms are a huge improvement over just cranking the bars and hoping it is a tolerable ride. I am very happy with how this truck turned out.

 

I live 10 miles from work, and 35-40 miles from a bigger city in my area. I use the truck every couple months to pull a 20 foot enclosed trailer to go camping and riding quads. It mostly sits unless I'm off work, and I haven't pulled the trailer yet since this, but it fits what I wanted/need just fine. Hope that helps some.

  • 2 months later...
Cowpie Senior Enthusiast

Cowpie

Posted
Posted

I am the opposite. I can't leave the house or come home without doing 1.5 miles of gravel roads. I took the alternate approach.. instead leveling by going higher, I leveled by going lower. Putting McGaughy's 2" drop shackles in the back. Left a slight rake still in the back and a much better handling and ride. About $70 and no strain put on front end components. Mine doesn't really tow much, but it does haul a lot, and many of those loads are up near gross. Even with the drop shackles on, the pickup doesn't squat with heavy loads. It just becomes completely level. I think GM went overkill with the rake for my 2500.

rocnrol Enthusiast

rocnrol

Posted
Posted

 

Does it ride better than or worse than stock like this? Specifically I'm wondering about riding on dirt roads. What is the effect of the heavy wheels and tires that you say you can feel?

I don't have any issues at speeds on gravel roads, even while towing our 35' travel trailer on the gravel

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

EJCarter Enthusiast

EJCarter

Posted
Posted

I did a lot of research on this too before I decided which way to go as I obviously needed to correct the stock stance. My last truck was an '04, and a simple crank of the bolts is all that was needed. It did prematurely wear out the idler and pitman arms (had to replace both twice in 150,000 miles). You can do this on the new trucks, but from what I found out, it will too prematurely wear not only the idler and pitman arms, but the upper ball joints. Adding aftermarket UCAs, a front differential drop down spacer, and shock extensions (or longer front shocks) brings these angles and/or gaps closer to being happy.



I decided on a leveling kit from Central Coast Motorsports. It consisted of UCAs, keys, diff drop down bracket, and shock extensions. They manufacture their own UCAs. These kits are similar to those made Cognito, Rough Country, etc...but are much cheaper. To get my truck level, we needed to lift the front approx 4". CCM states on the 2015 or 2016's, some trucks only need to be lifted 3" and some are up to 5". You would think they would all be the same from the factory.



The ride did slightly stiffen on the front end after installation, but it is not bad. I actually like it better as it is more truck like...not so soft like it was...



post-162305-0-71905000-1473009994_thumb.

post-162305-0-17682300-1473136470_thumb.


I also installed BFG KO2 tires. These are 1" taller than the OEM car like Goodyear's that came on the vehicle. This also made it look more truck like...plus these will perform much better than those "all season" car tires...


Central Coast Motorsports is located in San Luis Obispo, Ca

voxx82 Enthusiast

voxx82

Posted
Posted

I did a lot of research on this too before I decided which way to go as I obviously needed to correct the stock stance. My last truck was an '04, and a simple crank of the bolts is all that was needed. It did prematurely wear out the idler and pitman arms (had to replace both twice in 150,000 miles). You can do this on the new trucks, but from what I found out, it will too prematurely wear not only the idler and pitman arms, but the upper ball joints. Adding aftermarket UCAs, a front differential drop down spacer, and shock extensions (or longer front shocks) brings these angles and/or gaps closer to being happy.

I decided on a leveling kit from Central Coast Motorsports. It consisted of UCAs, keys, diff drop down bracket, and shock extensions. They manufacture their own UCAs. These kits are similar to those made Cognito, Rough Country, etc...but are much cheaper. To get my truck level, we needed to lift the front approx 4". CCM states on the 2015 or 2016's, some trucks only need to be lifted 3" and some are up to 5". You would think they would all be the same from the factory.

The ride did slightly stiffen on the front end after installation, but it is not bad. I actually like it better as it is more truck like...not so soft like it was...

post-162305-0-71905000-1473009994_thumb.

post-162305-0-17682300-1473136470_thumb.

I also installed BFG KO2 tires. These are 1" taller than the OEM car like Goodyear's that came on the vehicle. This also made it look more truck like...plus these will perform much better than those "all season" car tires...

Central Coast Motorsports is located in San Luis Obispo, Ca

 

Looks great ! What tire size are you running ?

  • 2 months later...
hiltz Enthusiast

hiltz

Posted
Posted

 

I did a lot of research on this too before I decided which way to go as I obviously needed to correct the stock stance. My last truck was an '04, and a simple crank of the bolts is all that was needed. It did prematurely wear out the idler and pitman arms (had to replace both twice in 150,000 miles). You can do this on the new trucks, but from what I found out, it will too prematurely wear not only the idler and pitman arms, but the upper ball joints. Adding aftermarket UCAs, a front differential drop down spacer, and shock extensions (or longer front shocks) brings these angles and/or gaps closer to being happy.

I decided on a leveling kit from Central Coast Motorsports. It consisted of UCAs, keys, diff drop down bracket, and shock extensions. They manufacture their own UCAs. These kits are similar to those made Cognito, Rough Country, etc...but are much cheaper. To get my truck level, we needed to lift the front approx 4". CCM states on the 2015 or 2016's, some trucks only need to be lifted 3" and some are up to 5". You would think they would all be the same from the factory.

The ride did slightly stiffen on the front end after installation, but it is not bad. I actually like it better as it is more truck like...not so soft like it was...

post-162305-0-71905000-1473009994_thumb.
post-162305-0-17682300-1473136470_thumb.
I also installed BFG KO2 tires. These are 1" taller than the OEM car like Goodyear's that came on the vehicle. This also made it look more truck like...plus these will perform much better than those "all season" car tires...

Central Coast Motorsports is located in San Luis Obispo, Ca

 

Hey I'm looking at a similar set up can you tell me your total height? I am curious if I can still fit in garage afterwars...

EJCarter Enthusiast

EJCarter

Posted
Posted

Without having my long level (I am at work) to come off the rear off the middle off the roof or the shark fin, I can get you a somewhat accurate measurement using a 12" level off the top corner of the rear glass on the rear door. This height is 75". If you compare this to your truck, you can probably tell how much higher mine is versus yours versus your garage height. Also, just for comparison, the center of my front fenders are 42.75" from the ground and the center of the rears are 43.5" from the ground. Hope this helps ya...

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