New to Silverado! Lots of questions! Need input :)

SouthSeaPirate · May 20, 2016

Hello all! I just purchased a high mileage 2500HD and it's not without it's problems.

As a Cherokee guy I know all the ins and outs of the trucks, can't say the same for this one; so keep in mind I am 100% new.

Im looking for any gotchas, known issues, or things I need to inspect.

Here are some issues and concerns I can think of off hand:

-Pulls right at all speeds. Not any more or less as speed changes.

-ABS and brake lights came on a couple of times. Haven't drove it enough to see how often or any consistencies. So far, brakes seem to work pretty damn good.

-AC blower motor is loud. Thinking maybe it just needs cleaned.

-Belt squeaks/chirps in a perfect pattern. Thinking just belt but wanted to know if there is anything on these trucks I need to look out for.

-Truck doesn't list forward. Im used to manuals, but from what I remember, letting off the brake pedal vehicles should move forward. This one barely moves at all.

-Truck idles pretty low, looks to be right around 500RPM.

-Very small rust hole in rear corner of cab; recommendations please.

-SES code P0327 - Knock Sensor

-SES codes for O2 B2S2 low voltage and heater something or other; sorry can't remember them right off hand.

Is the message center interactive or it it just for messages?

What is the proper 4x4 operation/procedure?

What should the trans temp be? How long should it take the truck to warm up? This one takes some travel before the trans temp registers at all and before the water temp gets near 210.

Any help, input, answers, ideas, greatly appreciated. TIA

2000 2500HD LQ4/4L80e

4:10 Locker (G80)

With every towing RPO available it seems.

newdude · May 20, 2016

Hello all! I just purchased a high mileage 2500HD and it's not without it's problems.

As a Cherokee guy I know all the ins and outs of the trucks, can't say the same for this one; so keep in mind I am 100% new.

Im looking for any gotchas, known issues, or things I need to inspect.

Here are some issues and concerns I can think of off hand:

-Pulls right at all speeds. Not any more or less as speed changes.

I'd start with tire pressures first. Check the front brakes for drag as well. Alignment may solve too.

-ABS and brake lights came on a couple of times. Haven't drove it enough to see how often or any consistencies. So far, brakes seem to work pretty damn good.

This will set codes. Would need to be read with a scanner not a code reader. Could be a wheel speed sensor (real common) or something with the EBCM itself.

-AC blower motor is loud. Thinking maybe it just needs cleaned.

-Belt squeaks/chirps in a perfect pattern. Thinking just belt but wanted to know if there is anything on these trucks I need to look out for.

Two common belt chirp issues on these engines. Serpentine tensioner and serpentine. belt, and the AC belt and tensioner. The AC tensioners fail quite often.

-Truck doesn't list forward. Im used to manuals, but from what I remember, letting off the brake pedal vehicles should move forward. This one barely moves at all.

-Truck idles pretty low, looks to be right around 500RPM.

Sounds about right, 500-600rpm idle.

-Very small rust hole in rear corner of cab; recommendations please.

-SES code P0327 - Knock Sensor

Common.

-SES codes for O2 B2S2 low voltage and heater something or other; sorry can't remember them right off hand.

Is the message center interactive or it it just for messages?

What is the proper 4x4 operation/procedure?

What should the trans temp be? How long should it take the truck to warm up? This one takes some travel before the trans temp registers at all and before the water temp gets near 210.

Any help, input, answers, ideas, greatly appreciated. TIA

2000 2500HD LQ4/4L80e

4:10 Locker (G80)

With every towing RPO available it seems.

SouthSeaPirate · May 20, 2016

Will deff start with the basics, tho it seems wheel hub is a common failure on these.

I have a basic OBD2 bluetooth scanner; I take it this wont give me my brake codes?

Is there anyway I can tell if tensioner rather than belt?

Thanks!

davester · May 21, 2016

For the ABS/Brake lights going on, it could be the 'common' problem of the ground for the ABS computer going bad. It's on the "wing" off the frame right under the drivers door. Unbolt the grounds, clean off the frame and the contacts, maybe put a bit of dielectric grease on it, then reassemble.

cpttimerestraint · May 21, 2016

I had the ac belt tensioner go bad on my 07. I pulled the ac belt and confirmed that the high pitched squeal was coming grin it. The belt was brand new so the next easiest step was replacing the tensioner. 2 easy bolts later the squeal was gone.

My transmission fluid runs at about 196. I heard that you don't want it to go above 210 because it will start to boil.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

becker87 · May 21, 2016

Did a highway run earlier this week, some pretty good hills, towing a skidsteer, some took me down to 50 MPH. Have an 07 1 ton and my tranny temps never hit 200 and I was pushing it pretty hard.

SouthSeaPirate · May 21, 2016

For the ABS/Brake lights going on, it could be the 'common' problem of the ground for the ABS computer going bad. It's on the "wing" off the frame right under the drivers door. Unbolt the grounds, clean off the frame and the contacts, maybe put a bit of dielectric grease on it, then reassemble.

Thank you! Going to hunt for this. Hopefully it's that simple.

I had the ac belt tensioner go bad on my 07. I pulled the ac belt and confirmed that the high pitched squeal was coming grin it. The belt was brand new so the next easiest step was replacing the tensioner. 2 easy bolts later the squeal was gone.

My transmission fluid runs at about 196. I heard that you don't want it to go above 210 because it will start to boil.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Ok so I discovered that the lower AC tensioner is new, there's no idler pulley AC side, and the belt is fine.

I also discovered the power steering pulley wobbles, one whole rib on the main belt is missing, and it's the idler pulley that is making all that noise.

Did a highway run earlier this week, some pretty good hills, towing a skidsteer, some took me down to 50 MPH. Have an 07 1 ton and my tranny temps never hit 200 and I was pushing it pretty hard.

Mine doesnt even get that far. Just wanted to make sure all is well. Thanks!

SouthSeaPirate · May 23, 2016

Here's a pic of the ground area I think you were referring to.

Noticed another wire hanging there. No idea if it goes here.

SouthSeaPirate · May 24, 2016

davester · May 24, 2016

Here's a pic of the ground area I think you were referring to.

Noticed another wire hanging there. No idea if it goes here.

Yeah, that's the one.

Mine looks like this:

SouthSeaPirate · May 24, 2016

Yeah, that's the one.

Mine looks like this:

IMG_0563.jpg

Wonder why mine looks different.

Makes me wonder if that other wire is a ground. Thoughts?

carkhz316 · May 24, 2016

I got a couple things to add.

For the trans temp, don't worry if you never see it climb up the gauge, or if it takes awhile. You want that thing to stay as cool as possible, especially in warm weather or during any kind of tow/ haul.

Regarding 4x4: make sure you're at least rolling when shifting into 4HI, regardless if you have push button or manual shift. The reason is that the front diff actuator has a straight cut to the splined collar that will sometimes bind if you're stopped.

For the ABS/ BRAKE! lights coming on: It's common for that ground to be bad, but what I've found is that the relay solder joints internally to the EBCM are more often at fault. I've fixed a few this way. Tutorials are on youtube if you're handy with a solder iron and patient.

davester · May 24, 2016

If the connector looks like the other wire that is bolted down, then yes, it is.

SouthSeaPirate · May 24, 2016

I have cross-posted on other forums and one member is saying the wire is not OEM.

Ive noticed other wires as well, so looks like left overs from some removed device. I know a CB was in there.

I deleted all codes last night; no brake light stuff come on during my 40+ mile commute this morning.

Could be some pending codes of course.

Going to clean the grounds and hope for the best.

Then it's on to fixing the solder joints as you said. Already seen a very nice and detailed video on YouTube

Thanks guys!

Now next issue. I have to fight to get my ignition to trun. Usaually have to move the steering wheel back and forth. On to more research

SouthSeaPirate · May 25, 2016

Alright, so now it seems I really have an idle problem. This morning I crank her up and bogs, then dies. Then would run, but very badly. Did fine until I let off gas. Had to crank, give gas, then quickly get it in gear just so I could leave home for work.

Yesterday, I pulled the grounds as pictured and used a wire wheel to clean up the area. I honestly don't see how it had any ground at all.

I also took out the ignition so I could clean it up as Im having a hard time getting it to turn. During this time I had the battery disconnected. it was over 30 minutes, so Im guessing the PCM reset applies here. After some searching, it seems the idle should be good to go (learn) first heat cycle. If thats the case, it hasnt learned sh....