Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Mine just got out the shop for this. They claimed it was my battery was real low and wouldn't charge. And my AMP steps which plugs into the port in the bottom of the dash. I'm just try and save money and ditch the truck. Putting a new die hard battery in it tomorrow and see if the problem happens again

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Has anybody looked at corrosion on the B+ side fusible link of the battery. Mine was doing all kinds of crazy codes, stabilitrac, ABS, Traction Control, codes for fuel pressure system and one that really bugged me was '' Start vehicle battery low'' when truck was already running. Well cleaned all the green stuff off of the fusible link and added dielectric grease an ''BINGO'' truck runs like new.

  • Like 1
Posted

Has anybody looked at corrosion on the B+ side fusible link of the battery. Mine was doing all kinds of crazy codes, stabilitrac, ABS, Traction Control, codes for fuel pressure system and one that really bugged me was '' Start vehicle battery low'' when truck was already running. Well cleaned all the green stuff off of the fusible link and added dielectric grease an ''BINGO'' truck runs like new.

I'm going to have to look at that and check it out. I checked the battery post before I scheduled an appointment at the shop. But the post on top the battery looked brand new still

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I'm telling you man trade it in while you can.. I'm so glad I got rid of mine. The more I've read and the dealership service guy has told me, the 2014s are ridden with electrical issues.

Posted (edited)

I'm telling you man trade it in while you can.. I'm so glad I got rid of mine. The more I've read and the dealership service guy has told me, the 2014s are ridden with electrical issues.

That's what I'm leaning towards. New battery is in and if the issues come back this truck is gone. I hate to say it because I love the truck. But I can't have drive ability issues that can't be resolved.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Stallion225
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

 

Okay guys update on my problem. Was on the INTERSTATE today to see a movie out of town, had the ac blowing, radio on, wife rolls down window, then rolls it back up. As she rolls the up, I head a ding ding ding, looked at panel, says parking assist off, and radio volume stops working. Get off interstate, on the exit ramp, stabilitrac starts flashing on dash. So I pull off into the parking lot of the theatre, and as I'm pulling in, the steering wheel starts, once again violently jerking left to right ac turns off stabilitrac flashing, AND THE TRUCK DIES IN MIDDLE OF ROAD/PARKING LOT!!!! Texted my salesman going to try to bring truck in tomorrow morning. Somethings deff wrong!

 

 

Hi Phillip,

 

We are very sorry to learn about your recent parking assist concerns. This is not the experience we wish for you to have, and we would like to further investigate this situation. At your earliest convenience could you please send us a private message? We look forward to your response.

 

Best,

 

Brandon J.

GM Customer Care

Posted

 

 

That's what I'm leaning towards. New battery is in and if the issues come back this truck is gone. I hate to say it because I love the truck. But I can't have drive ability issues that can't be resolved.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Hi Stallion225,

 

We are happy to hear you love your Silverado. Your frustration is certainly understandable, and we apologize for the inconvenience this situation has caused. We strive to produce high quality products that we hope will meet your satisfaction, and this is far from the feedback we wish to receive. Should you have any future questions or concerns, please know we are only one private message away.

 

Sincerely,

 

Brandon J.

GM Customer Care

Posted (edited)

Hi Phillip,

 

We are very sorry to learn about your recent parking assist concerns. This is not the experience we wish for you to have, and we would like to further investigate this situation. At your earliest convenience could you please send us a private message? We look forward to your response.

 

Best,

 

Brandon J.

GM Customer Care

Why is it when there's a issue... you guys say I'm sorry? Just be honest and real... I'm sure you guys know a cure for all the issues... stop dodging bullets and release the cures. Edited by Silver ice 6.2
  • Like 2
Posted

Recently experienced these same issues while driving on the freeway. In addition to the warnings that popped up in my cluster and on my info screen, my headlights would dim or sometimes flicker while driving. Definitely not safe and have to get this checked out tomorrow. The first message is the stabilitrak warning and the second is that steering would be diminished.

 

 

Posted

Sad. As others have stated. I have taken the truck in and they can't get it to act up. This is not something that happens on a regular basis. I took a picture of the mileage when I dropped it off and will be comparing it to the mileage when I pick it up. My wife agrees that if it happens again that we will be looking to get rid of the truck. If GM does nothing, not sure if I want another GM product. Still undetermined.

  • Like 1
Posted

Went and bought a new F-150 today. I drive too much to worry about a computer or electrical issue. Thanks GM for not knowing how to fix your product.

  • Like 1
Posted

I am dealing with the same issue. Stabilitrax light coming on and wheel jerking out of my hands. I took to the dealer and of course they could not duplicate the problem. I am worried about driving my family around in this vehicle not knowing when it will happen again. Has anyone found a resolution to this problem yet. I also have a clunking in the steering wheel which started happening just before the wheel started jerking and light flashing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...