Finding a Tailgate

Dunc · September 3, 2016

Is there an ebay like site for junkyards? I need a way of searching more junkyards at once. I'm looking for a 2016 tailgate from any Sierra. Would prefer a damaged one from a wreck to reduce cost. Just wanting to strip parts from it.

stereojnky · September 3, 2016

Www.Car-part.com

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legend700 · September 10, 2016

good luck with that, been trying to find a reasonable price takeoff since I backed into a snowbank and dented the tailgate.

Aubie_01 · September 10, 2016

You can buy individual parts from GM Parts Direct at a reduced cost.

Brian Long · September 10, 2016

If you are close to any rural areas, I would drive around and find a company that has GM fleet trucks that they use to pull 5th wheel or gooseneck trailers. Several of the companies by me pull the tailgates and run without, or run a drop center. They just ditch the gates in a shed, sell them, etc. Point being, you may find one in near new condition for very little money.

GMMediumDutyMQ · September 14, 2016

You can buy individual parts from GM Parts Direct at a reduced cost.

Shipping from them on a part like a tailgate would cost an arm and a leg...

GMMediumDutyMQ · September 14, 2016

Is there an ebay like site for junkyards? I need a way of searching more junkyards at once. I'm looking for a 2016 tailgate from any Sierra. Would prefer a damaged one from a wreck to reduce cost. Just wanting to strip parts from it.

Why 2016? Wouldn't MY14-15 also work? And what parts, exactly, are you looking for?

Knowing roughly where you're located would also help us crawl ads closer to home for you...

Silvern Sentry · September 14, 2016

If you are close to any rural areas, I would drive around and find a company that has GM fleet trucks that they use to pull 5th wheel or gooseneck trailers. Several of the companies by me pull the tailgates and run without, or run a drop center. They just ditch the gates in a shed, sell them, etc. Point being, you may find one in near new condition for very little money.

This is a great idea a lot of fleet vehicles are leased but someome in my area is pulling all the tailgates off cable trucks etc for bigger canopys with full door so there must be a pile of em somewhere. The leasing company maybe even?

cbrsilv15 · September 14, 2016

Car-parts.com

Dunc · September 15, 2016

Why 2016? Wouldn't MY14-15 also work? And what parts, exactly, are you looking for?

Knowing roughly where you're located would also help us crawl ads closer to home for you...

I'm located in Ohio.

I had a loaner '16 Sierra while mine was getting work done. While I had it I opened up the tailgate to inspect the locking tailgate mechanism. The '15 has nearly all the same parts except for a couple that could be pulled from a '16 tailgate. Only problem is that the tailgate is designed slightly different in terms of mounting points.

The '16 has mounting points built into the tailgate metal while the '15 has no provisions. The picture below is of the '16. I made this post before I got mine back and realized the problem. So really the only to use an OEM piece is to a.) weld a mounting tab b.) riveting on a mounting tab c.) just use an aftermarket pop n' lock. Personally I prefer OEM in all cases which is why I originally asked about this. I guess the OEM piece could still be used, it would just take a little effort to get the solenoid mounted properly. I might actually go the welding route at some point when I'm bored and want a project. Wouldn't be hard to get tab on there using the turned down lip of that opening. While the other side would just be a hole to drill and some shims.

GMMediumDutyMQ · September 15, 2016

Interesting. Learned something new!

I'm all for trying to stay OEM with modifications on my truck as well, but gotta say -- and you're probably well aware -- the cost of buying a 16 panel, not to mention having it painted to match your truck if needed, is gonna quickly surpass the P&L kit, and other than staying OEM for OEM sake, isn't likely to give you much more than what you'd get with the P&L kit. You'd still need to run wiring/ splice into the cab harness as well. I've also been plenty happy with my P&L, for whatever it's worth...probably one of the best mods I made to my truck, and has been completely reliable.

I'll still keep my eyes out for a panel for you, though!

Dunc · September 15, 2016

Interesting. Learned something new!

I'm all for trying to stay OEM with modifications on my truck as well, but gotta say -- and you're probably well aware -- the cost of buying a 16 panel, not to mention having it painted to match your truck if needed, is gonna quickly surpass the P&L kit, and other than staying OEM for OEM sake, isn't likely to give you much more than what you'd get with the P&L kit. You'd still need to run wiring/ splice into the cab harness as well. I've also been plenty happy with my P&L, for whatever it's worth...probably one of the best mods I made to my truck, and has been completely reliable.

I'll still keep my eyes out for a panel for you, though!

I should have clarified. I didn't want the '16 gate and to paint match it. I would take a damaged gate and yank out the components. All that is needed is:

1.) The electrical pigtail

2.) The solenoid that is shown laying on the tailgate in front of that opening

3.) The white plastic arm

4.) The little metal tab that is held on by retainer clip to the lock cylinder. This is what is moved by the white plastic arm to lock/unlock. The lock cylinder may be needed, but I don't think so.

I made sure to take several pictures and a few videos so I knew how the '16 functioned and could reference back to it in the future. Everything is the same between the two truck years except for very slight tweaks on items 2 & 3. With the above 4 items from a '16 gate then I could install those in a '15 gate and have the OEM operation. I tried looking for just those parts on GM Parts Direct, but I quickly realized I wouldn't find items #1, 3, and 4 without just buying a gate assembly. That is why I was interested in a damaged '16 gate to be a parts donor.

cbrsilv15 · September 15, 2016

Why not just get a pop and lock for around $100? It's an electric lock for the tailgates. I'd love to have one.

GMMediumDutyMQ · September 15, 2016

I should have clarified. I didn't want the '16 gate and to paint match it. I would take a damaged gate and yank out the components. All that is needed is:

1.) The electrical pigtail

2.) The solenoid that is shown laying on the tailgate in front of that opening

3.) The white plastic arm

4.) The little metal tab that is held on by retainer clip to the lock cylinder. This is what is moved by the white plastic arm to lock/unlock. The lock cylinder may be needed, but I don't think so.

I made sure to take several pictures and a few videos so I knew how the '16 functioned and could reference back to it in the future. Everything is the same between the two truck years except for very slight tweaks on items 2 & 3. With the above 4 items from a '16 gate then I could install those in a '15 gate and have the OEM operation. I tried looking for just those parts on GM Parts Direct, but I quickly realized I wouldn't find items #1, 3, and 4 without just buying a gate assembly. That is why I was interested in a damaged '16 gate to be a parts donor.

I guess I see where you're coming from. You're still going to have a fun time finding one, though, since not ever MY16 K2 was equipped with the feature. Might find a number of '16 gates without them, especially if you're looking mostly at tailgates removed from fleet vehicles.

I'm also concerned that getting #1, the pigtail, is not going to work for you. Is the other end of that pigtail -- i.e. the harness on the truck that the tailgate pigtail is plugged into -- wired on 14-15 models to send lock/unlock signal to that mating connector and on to the tailgate? I'd have to delve into some wiring diagrams, but my suspicion is no, it is not -- which would lead you back towards splicing into the existing lock wiring.

I'm honestly not one to shoot down someone else's project, but I'm still confused -- I'm not seeing an advantage of retrofitting the OEM actuator over the Pop & Lock. You're looking at the same amount of work to install, ultimately, but with more cost and no warranty on the lock actuator itself. Is there something I'm missing?

Dunc · September 16, 2016

I guess I see where you're coming from. You're still going to have a fun time finding one, though, since not ever MY16 K2 was equipped with the feature. Might find a number of '16 gates without them, especially if you're looking mostly at tailgates removed from fleet vehicles.

I'm also concerned that getting #1, the pigtail, is not going to work for you. Is the other end of that pigtail -- i.e. the harness on the truck that the tailgate pigtail is plugged into -- wired on 14-15 models to send lock/unlock signal to that mating connector and on to the tailgate? I'd have to delve into some wiring diagrams, but my suspicion is no, it is not -- which would lead you back towards splicing into the existing lock wiring.

I'm honestly not one to shoot down someone else's project, but I'm still confused -- I'm not seeing an advantage of retrofitting the OEM actuator over the Pop & Lock. You're looking at the same amount of work to install, ultimately, but with more cost and no warranty on the lock actuator itself. Is there something I'm missing?

You're not not missing anything. Only thing I wouldn't do is splice into wiring. I'd just follow it back to a connector and repin it with two wires instead. You're also right that I'd likely spend more money using an OEM setup, but I'd still go that way. I did the same on my HID retrofit where I used only OEM parts which cost me way more than the typical retro seen on here. But in the headlight example, I just like the results better in that I believe the give a cleaner look and I trust the OEM reliability more...I'm just weird like that lol.