Help Removing Driver's Airbag - Urgent

GMMediumDutyMQ · October 15, 2016

LET ME PREFACE THIS by saying I have read virtually all the threads on the heated wheel swap, which include tips/ directions on removing the airbag, and I've also read the OEM service directions for removing the airbag.

All I can say is that I've read everything, and I've yet been sitting in the truck for the past hour and a half, and no progress at getting the airbag retention spring to unclip.

Can anyone provide any tips/ advice on how in the heck to finally get the airbag to release?

Have to drive into work Mon morning; would REALLY be nice to get this whole heated wheel swap accomplished this weekend instead of buttoning everything up only to have to tear into it again at a later date...

tmo · October 15, 2016

If you poke holes in the indentions on the side of the wheel and I guess push on that wire they will pop off. This is different to how I have read on here.

tmo · October 15, 2016

Did you just unhook the negative battery cable? And for how long.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you just unhook the negative battery cable? And for how long.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

GMMediumDutyMQ · October 15, 2016

Yes, that was step one. GM's manual says to let it sit for 10-15; I think I let it sit for closer to 20-25. Used the time to not only take off the knee bolster and the column shroud, but put the front end up on jackstands in order to make cranking the wheel easier without the truck running.

Might give the side-poke technique a try barring anything else.

tmo · October 15, 2016

Okay. I'm about to put my wheel on. I don't have to clock spring yet, but I'm thinking I'm gonna sell the truck before then anyways. Good luck

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

tmo · October 15, 2016

Okay I'm stuck... how do you get the wires to disconnect from the bag so you can work behind it?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

GMMediumDutyMQ · October 15, 2016

Should be the same connectors used on GMT900 airbags. Reference videos for that process are plentiful...

I'm confused; you're putting a heated wheel on without the clockspring?

GMMediumDutyMQ · October 15, 2016

Alright, the urgency's gone. FINALLY got the airbag off by means of those side ports...not proud, but had to cut away at the foam a little to really be able to put good leverage on the spring and release the airbag. I'm envious of those who're able to do it the prescribed way...this wasn't easy.

Airbag connectors were easy - you pull up on the orange portion and then squeeze the sides and they pop off. Steering column nut is a big 22mm sucker. I lack upper body strength, so it took just a light tap on the wheel with a small deadblow to pop it forward/ loose.

Ran out of daylight but at least am ready to remove the clockspring and go hunting for wiring in the morning...thanks for the previous help!

tmo · October 15, 2016

Should be the same connectors used on GMT900 airbags. Reference videos for that process are plentiful...

I'm confused; you're putting a heated wheel on without the clockspring?

I am, not sure about OP. I don't have it yet and I was bored today so figured whatever right. Everything works... that I need... (only cruise.

GMMediumDutyMQ · October 16, 2016

Well, that's been an adventure, battling a host of things, including intermittent thunderstorms here...but I'm now 90% wrapped up. New clockspring and wheel are installed. Trying to re-trace the factory path for the clockspring/ SRS connector is difficult if not impossible, as it arcs WAY high in the nether regions of the IP.

The one part I haven't finished is the heated function itself. I just haven't found the OEM connector inside the dash, but I don't want to give up on the hunt yet -- I suspect it's there. I'll look closer on the weekend, and if I still can't find it, then I'll splice a fuse tap into the heated element wiring and run it to the LH fuseblock.

Also having some fun trying to get the column shroud snapped back in place the way it was supposed to...it's "good enough" for now, but I'll be fighting with it again soon...

In the meantime, everything's largely buttoned up as it was before, and the wheel is functioning as it should. Surprised to see I didn't even lose a single radio preset!

tmo · October 19, 2016

Well, that's been an adventure, battling a host of things, including intermittent thunderstorms here...but I'm now 90% wrapped up. New clockspring and wheel are installed. Trying to re-trace the factory path for the clockspring/ SRS connector is difficult if not impossible, as it arcs WAY high in the nether regions of the IP.

The one part I haven't finished is the heated function itself. I just haven't found the OEM connector inside the dash, but I don't want to give up on the hunt yet -- I suspect it's there. I'll look closer on the weekend, and if I still can't find it, then I'll splice a fuse tap into the heated element wiring and run it to the LH fuseblock.

Also having some fun trying to get the column shroud snapped back in place the way it was supposed to...it's "good enough" for now, but I'll be fighting with it again soon...

In the meantime, everything's largely buttoned up as it was before, and the wheel is functioning as it should. Surprised to see I didn't even lose a single radio preset!

The easiest way to get the shroud back in place is to pop off the pice above the gauge cluster and remove that trim pice around the cluster. It's very easy to take off and makes putting the shroud on so much easier! Keep us updated on the heating wire!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

GMMediumDutyMQ · October 19, 2016

Hate to disagree, but -- that bezel was already removed when I had difficulty getting the shroud back on. Bigger issue is trying to get all the wiring lined up just perfectly to get that lower cowl on.

I ended up splicing into the heated circuit and running a fuse tap to the DS fuse block as I could not find a matching connector anywhere under my dash. After three days worth of searching, I gave up.