Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

66,

 

The same techs changing engines and transmissions aren't doing oil changes so what I would do is talk to the service writer beforehand and quiz him on catch cans. If you get a blank stare then you might have a problem. If he knows what they are and can pass it on to the kid doing the oil changes you have a chance. Or the person doing the oil changes may know what they are and the problem is solved but it's better to find out beforehand rather than leaving it to chance.

 

Indeed. The lube tech at the dealer is going to be the same caliber as what gets hired at Jiffy Lube, etc. Which is why in my opinion it might be best he not be confronted with something he doesn't see all the time, especially since removal of the CSS itself is so easy. Explaining things will take far more time. If you remove just the CSS you will leave one fitting on the airbox unused. If you remove the CSS system with all hoses, and reinstall the original airbox hoses, you will leave the WOT fitting on the can unused. What to do about that is my question ---- cap/plug with something or can they be left as is briefly?

 

This seems like an excellent issue for Joe to weigh in on. Changing oil with the UPR system installed is not as easy or uncomplicated as stock.

 

 

Agreed that it would be in your own best intrest , and wise to talk to your service manager before you install a catch can. If anything ,you'll get a reaction from them, and maybe have a better understanding of where they stand with one. I done so with my dealership for just that reason before I bought one.

My dealer told me that it was not really nessaccery to add one, but wasn't against the idea either. He said the Chevy Traverse has a real problem with valve/ engine deposits. And if I owned one of those he would definitely recommend one. So yeah, I felt them out on the idea, before I I bought and installed one. Definitely a good idea so you know what you may be up against as far as future service appointments.

 

As far as the technician not being the same tech as the one that works on the bigger service problems.. I agree and understand this. But at the same time, I like to try and have a little faith in my dealership service department, and hope that that new hire from Jiffy lube , made it this far because he has enough sense to ask a fellow/senior coworker with more experience ( or service manager ) to give him some guidance to resolve this simple problem. Because, after all, he probably doesn't want to be changing oil and doing lube jobs the rest of his life. ( one would hope anyway) .

 

But I guess this could be a problem ,depending on your dealership and where you live.I wouldn't overthink it or get too parinoid about it. Evaluate your dealership, then go from there.

Posted

The service manager at "my dealership" had no idea what a catch can is. This is not uncommon, most people are not anal forum dwellers. He did get real interested, however, when I said he was missing the boat on a lot of money to be made. When dealers start offering these as "add-ons", like pin striping, etc. I will not be surprised.

Posted

Also, if I may add, I found it very interesting after speaking with my service manager about this topic, that at 37-38K miles, My dealer recommends a upper induction and valve cleaning on the engine. Apparently they have a special tool / machine that heats up each cylinder through the spark plug port, and burns all those nasty oil deposits that you didn't need a catch can for , right off your valves. Like it pretty much never happened. I believe this service costed about $180.00. This service is offered Just 1-2 K miles out of the 36K mile warranty...., imagine that. Who would of thought. Probably wouldn't hurt to mention that to them and see if they offer this service.

Posted

Unfortunately I don't have faith in the lube techs. I run a dash cam so I see how they act and treat my truck. Just another number to them. Anything out of the ordinary and they pull the brakes. This isn't the case everywhere just mine.

 

Oh well this is why I will remove it for my last free oil change because after that I will do the changes while I am still young.

 

 

 

 

 

Agreed that it would be in your own best intrest , and wise to talk to your service manager before you install a catch can. If anything ,you'll get a reaction from them, and maybe have a better understanding of where they stand with one. I done so with my dealership for just that reason before I bought one.

My dealer told me that it was not really nessaccery to add one, but wasn't against the idea either. He said the Chevy Traverse has a real problem with valve/ engine deposits. And if I owned one of those he would definitely recommend one. So yeah, I felt them out on the idea, before I I bought and installed one. Definitely a good idea so you know what you may be up against as far as future service appointments.

 

As far as the technician not being the same tech as the one that works on the bigger service problems.. I agree and understand this. But at the same time, I like to try and have a little faith in my dealership service department, and hope that that new hire from Jiffy lube , made it this far because he has enough sense to ask a fellow/senior coworker with more experience ( or service manager ) to give him some guidance to resolve this simple problem. Because, after all, he probably doesn't want to be changing oil and doing lube jobs the rest of his life. ( one would hope anyway) .

 

But I guess this could be a problem ,depending on your dealership and where you live.I wouldn't overthink it or get too parinoid about it. Evaluate your dealership, then go from there.

Posted

If you were to outline the steps in removing the CSS cap for the service guy or the tech to employ in changing the oil what would those steps be?

Posted

Pull out the css from the oil filler. Pour oil in. And push cap back on.

 

Instead of twisting the stock oil cap out. You just pull the css out.

 

A 2 year old can do it

Posted

Pull out the css from the oil filler. Pour oil in. And push cap back on.

 

Instead of twisting the stock oil cap out. You just pull the css out.

 

A 2 year old can do it

 

 

The UPR is a two piece. The base screws in just like the stock cap.

Posted

So,is the e2x. It just pulls out. The screw in piece is just basically a rubber piece to pressure fit the css.

Posted (edited)

Sorry, I haven't responded in a few days as we have been working on some new products.

 

The CSS is very simple to R&R and with all the customers we deal with. I've come to the conclusion that it's best to have each individual do it a few times to see what works best and they feel will be easiest to explain to the TECH working on the vehicle.

 

I prefer to disconnect it from the intake and then you can easily spin it to undo the lower UPR Plug n Play™ fitting then use a 19mm wrench to unscrew the UPR Plug n Play filler neck fitting.

 

Joe

Edited by joeupr
Posted (edited)

After installing my UPR Oil Catch Can - http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/192702-allterrainx-2016-gmc-sierra-slt-all-terrain-x/page-2?do=findComment&comment=1935504

 

3 months/500 miles later (currently have 2017 miles), this is what I drained from it. So glad this crap isn't going into my motor.

 

Chocolatey appearance, oil and gas smell.

 

post-163421-0-75175400-1494211196_thumb.jpg

post-163421-0-75175400-1494211196_thumb.jpg

post-163421-0-75175400-1494211196_thumb.jpg

post-163421-0-75175400-1494211196_thumb.jpg

Edited by AllTerrainX
  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Can anyone give me a quick explanation on what is the point of a catch can exactly? Its my understanding that its just to catch excess oil from going into the intake, correct?

Posted

Can anyone give me a quick explanation on what is the point of a catch can exactly? Its my understanding that its just to catch excess oil from going into the intake, correct?

correct, catches the snake oil

Posted (edited)

Can anyone give me a quick explanation on what is the point of a catch can exactly? Its my understanding that its just to catch excess oil from going into the intake, correct?

 

The simple explanation of the PCV system is that it's a dedicated vacuum pump to scavenge the crankcase and evacuate any positive crankcase pressure. The issue occurs during normal PCV function while the dedicated vacuum source is eliminating crankcase pressure and improving ring seal. PROBLEM: The factory vacuum source is strong enough that it can and will pull out any fluids that are still vapor.

 

The newer the vehicle the stronger the vacuum source will be, resulting in much higher amounts of oil and unburnt fuels being scavenged from the crankcase through the PCV system and ultimately into the combustion chamber where they cause disruption in the efficiency of the cylinder firing and often results in detonation or pre-ignition. Then slowly the engine will start to build up a slow and inevitable collection of oil that starts to coat the intake, runners and combustion chambers.

 

When you install a properly functioning catch can and not some empty container with steel wool or home made dividers in it, you collect almost everything instead of collecting a little bit of oil and thinking you solved the problem. These empty cans are only catching the solids and the vapors are still getting through. That is where UPR has taken the time to develop a multi-stage, multi-chamber catch can system that will deliver the best performance in both coalescing and condensing in hot or cold applications.

 

SNAKE OIL:

There have been a lot of unethical businesses that market catch cans with scare tactics; stories of blown engines, a bunch of Direct Injection nightmares, and so on. That makes it easy to be swayed, or for someone to make light of the benefits of catch cans without ever understanding the true function and benefits.

 

UPR stands behind their Catch Can Systems with a full warranty and guarantee to deliver performance and mpg benefits across the board.

Edited by joeupr

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Ok that confirms the extra quart theme they are still going with which must mean they have noted some initial use more so then some engines and probably the bigger factor in all of this probably isn't the engine so much as its the insane distance or OLM that lulls a lot of the driving public into driving their new vehicle off the lot and not even doing one short interval oil change because the manufacturer doesn't say different and if the dealer follows that logic as well. Selling the rarely needing to be serviced concept seems to go over well with the public that wants to get away with as little as possible for dollars spent on the vehicles maintenance and I bet there are 3.0 engines just like other vehicles out there that never have their oil checked by the owner which goes back to why they probably felt the need to add that extra quart to avoid a costly theme.    Speaking of cutting filters open, it was probably over two years ago now that a youtuber who buys vehicles to do longer term reviews and pulls a fifth wheel through the mountains of Colorado on summer trips and that becomes part of the testing. Anyway he had a GM HD with the 6.6 gas and a Ford 250 with the 7.3 gas at the same time and of no surprise the Ford had more power etc but somewhere along the way in the few thousand miles he put on the truck, he changed the oil and was seeing glitter and cut open the filter and yeah, things were not looking spectacular. The truck about that time or soon after seemed down on power compared to what it had been and then threw some engine code, I expect the cam/lifters were failing and so he brought the truck back to the dealer and made some deal to get out of it as he knew it would sit for months waiting on a new engine as they were so backlogged at the time. He kept the GM for some time after that using it exclusively until he sold it after buying his next vehicle to do a review on. Definitely the filter can tell a story when things are starting to go sideways, but it would be a sickening feeling to cut it open and be faced with an ugly mess like that and be running a magnet through the pleats and the oil on the dirty side of the filter and see all the fines sticking to the magnet.    The dealer may have some ideas based on experience as to where that coolant smell is coming from, I would imagine if they can't find it but its smelling they would put dye in it to they could give it a run cycle and use the black light to see where it pops up, if its a hose connection, water pump, rad or even a head gasket etc. 
    • Good looking truck, suspensionmaxx looks like a solid option
    • Thanks for the info, im considering a leveling kit or 4" lift kit.
    • charm.li (website) has the vehicle-specific diagnostic procedure for that code, you can use to find what the cause of it is.
    • It’s at the point of amusement. I’m retired I have time. It’s fun seeing people try to convince me I’m using oil. I’m buying oil at the prescribed time. It gets drained and new goes in. Do I add in between, no. My oil doesn’t even get dirty in 5k miles. I don’t even see any drop on the stick. I check in the same place. All is well.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...