Draveshaft Clunk Lube

QIKSILVR · June 20, 2003

Anyone lube their driveshaft yoke to TRY & get rid of the famous "clunk"? What exactly do you do. Any recommended steps? Thanks

debo4x4 · June 20, 2003

Since you have the ext cab you can replace factory slip yolk with the nickle plated one, if that dosen't work there are a couple other fixes like lubing and greasing the yolk or changing the transfer case fluid to the new AutoTrac II. The last time I was at the dealer trying to get mine fixed(with no luck) the technician said he has seen people putting a rubber bouncie ball (like your kids play with) between the yolk and the driveshaft. I haven't tried that one yet but it might work. For all of us reg cab drivers there is still no fix that I know of.

MattDewalt · June 20, 2003

I removed my driveshaft from the rear by removing the 4 bolts that hold it to the pumpkin (***IMPORTANT - Make sure you have your emergency brake on and your wheels blocked - once you remove the shaft your truck will no longer hold in gear!***). Then, pull the driveshaft from the transfer case. My yoke had an area of rust on the outside of it where it slips in and out of the transfer case. I sanded this off with an emerycloth. I then put grease from my grease gun over the entire area and coated the splines inside. My clunk has been gone ever since.

kgornek · June 20, 2003

I'm sorry if this sounds stupid, but what exactly is the yoke? I have a 2001 Tahoe with the famous "cluck" going from 2-3 gear and vice versa... Would this yoke be the cause of this issue as well. I plan on changing the transfer oil with the "blue" as well.

Pewter Pro-Tec · June 21, 2003

I'm sorry if this sounds stupid, but what exactly is the yoke? I have a 2001 Tahoe with the famous "cluck" going from 2-3 gear and vice versa... Would this yoke be the cause of this issue as well. I plan on changing the transfer oil with the "blue" as well.

Look under your Tahoe and locate the rear pumpkin on the rear end. Follow it toward the front of the truck, along the driveshaft, and at the end going into the transmission or transfer case (depending on if you have 2 or 4 wheel drive) is your yoke. The yoke slides in and out on the splines of the output shaft of the transmission to compensate for the rear end going up and down in an arc due to suspension travel. The universal joint connects the yoke to the driveshaft. I don't have a digi cam to take a pic but the attached image is what it should look like when you pull it out.

kgornek · June 21, 2003

Thanks for the info! Now I see the light.

Is this something that can be done by a do-it-yourselfer by simply following MattDewalt directions? I've talked to the dealership about fixing this for me and they weren't too interested. They said it was "normal". I saw the TSB stating this fact as well, but I don't believe any type of clunk in the drivetrain is in any way "normal".

I've done engine work before, but the whole drivetrain area is new to me, so if any of you could give some tips and/or hints, I sure would appreciate it. I am hoping to get this done this weekend if at all possible.

Thanks all ~

HillHound · June 21, 2003

Here ya go. I posted this to someone a few months back and just cut/pasted it here. It's an easy job you can do in your level driveway. Make sure it's level, pull the park brake and use wheel blocks. The truck can roll when you remove the shaft.

Click here and read this thread... I had some photos to go with the info but they're long gone now.

After you remove the 4 bolts that hold the shaft to the rear differential and slide it from the transfer case, the slip yoke is the hollow tube that slides into the transfer case. If you look inside the yoke you will see the teeth in there and those are what need to be cleaned and greased.

BTW-If you have trouble removing the shaft assembly from the rear diff, tap it with a piece of wood-mine had some rust on the surface areas and I had to tap it lightly to break it loose. Remember to park the truck on a level surface and set the park brake. Remember to put some reference marks across the rear shaft because it is designed to fit on a certain way due to balance etc.

Also I would just go ahead and drain the transfer case prior to removing the shaft/yoke. That way you won't have a mess if some runs out. Refill it after you get done lubing the slip yoke with GM Auto Trak fluid (the part # is on the link and it's cheap). I think dirty fluid has something to do with the noise and if you bought your truck used it's not a bad idea to change it anyway. If you have questions or don't know what or where something is let me know.