After Market stereo... PCM HELP

robi523 · May 3, 2017

On the inside of the beast is the factory 8" head unit as I like the connectivity/integration of it. I didn't get BOSE system because I prefer aftermarket. I have JL Audio C5 6.5" components in the front and C3 6.5 components in the rear. I have the JL Audio flex integration unit as long as the Tweak digital processor. I put 2 JL Audio 10W6's in a FOX ACCOUSTICS ported box under the rear seat which are enhanced by an Audio Control Epic 160. Pushing everything is a JL Audio XD 1000/5 and a JL Audio XD 600/1. Foreseeing some issues with power I went with a dual battery setup and ran Dual Optima Yellowtops. It sounds GREAT, however I am up against a wall with the PCM. With the voltage so low when it goes to rest I can't run hardly any volume on the system. It's annoying the hell out of me and I've only had the stereo in a week! The amps cut in/out constantly. I ordered a Mechman 270 amp Alternator, but with the PCM the problem will remain. I have read that with a single Optima the high load trick doesn't work. Is there any way to disable the PCM without turning lights in the dash on? Can I install some sort of resistor to trick it?

WhineyTTwins · May 3, 2017

That's strange. Any reason you need two batteries? I am running an SAZ-1200D, (2) PPI 1000's OR (1) ARC Audio XDi 1200.6, Helix C-DSP, and a 3 way active (tweeter/midrange/midbass/subwoofer) setup and have yet to find the need for a second battery. Alternator is probably trying to keep up with keeping to batteries topped off that are not draining at the same rate. Maybe go back to single battery.

robi523 · May 3, 2017

Alternator is barely running... Epic show's a 12.0 volt steady... which is cutting the amps out. The logic of the system is alternator puts out full power for first 30 seconds, then backs off for fuel savings until a high load is indicated through computer, such as headligts, blower, etc. Aftermarket amplifiers are not part of the computers readings... I would just eliminate it but that would give me a dash light, which I can't pass inspection with.

stereojnky · May 3, 2017

Reinstall factory alternator. Disconnect the second battery from the truck and find or fab a bracket to run the second alternator hooked only to the system and second battery.

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WhineyTTwins · May 4, 2017

Alternator is barely running... Epic show's a 12.0 volt steady... which is cutting the amps out. The logic of the system is alternator puts out full power for first 30 seconds, then backs off for fuel savings until a high load is indicated through computer, such as headligts, blower, etc. Aftermarket amplifiers are not part of the computers readings... I would just eliminate it but that would give me a dash light, which I can't pass inspection with.

You have a rather unique issue. I don't have any dash lights or issues on the factory system. I would try reaching out to motomedic here on the forums. If he doesn't know the answer, he may know someone who does. Wish I could have been more helpful, sorry.

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