Jump to content

2007 Silverado transmission question

KansasGM

By KansasGM
in Ask A GM Technician

Recommended Posts

KansasGM Enthusiast

KansasGM

Posted
Posted

I have a 07 Silverado 2500hd with the 6.0/6l90 combo. I get hard shifts and sometimes flare shifts between 2-3 gears. Have only owned the truck for a year but has done it the whole time. Doesnt seem to be getting worse. Is there some different programming that can be done to smooth out out? Thank you

Justin101714 Enthusiast

Justin101714

Posted
Posted

I have a 07 Silverado 2500hd with the 6.0/6l90 combo. I get hard shifts and sometimes flare shifts between 2-3 gears. Have only owned the truck for a year but has done it the whole time. Doesnt seem to be getting worse. Is there some different programming that can be done to smooth out out? Thank you

Most of what I do for the dealership is transmission work. Based on your concern, when third gear is locked, the 1-2-3-4 clutch and the 3-5 reverse clutch is applied. If the 1-2 shift is normal. It's safe to assume the 1-2-3-4 clutch is working fine. The only difference from the 1-2 shift and the 2-3 shift is the 3-5 reverse clutch is applied in the 2-3 shift. So, you either have a 3-5 reverse clutch problem, a 3-5 reverse clutch piston leaking fluid past it, a valve body concern, maybe a sticking valve itself or a shift solenoid concern. Normally a shift solenoid concern will set a check engine light. I've seen the solenoid bores worn out and the solenoid sort of flopping around in the bore, causing fluid to leak around. All of the listed problems can cause shift flares. Programming will not fix this, it's going to have to come apart.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Justin101714 Enthusiast

Justin101714

Posted
Posted

Thank you for the information! Will it harm the transmission more to continue driving it as is?

It'll shift the same for a while I'm sure, until the problem gets worse of course and you don't have 3rd and 5th gear. Does it flare in the 4-5 shift?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

KansasGM Enthusiast

KansasGM

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No, the only problem area is between 2-3 gears. The rest of them are great. And most of the time it's not a flare, its just kind of a sharp rough shift. Every once in awhile in flares, and sometimes it shifts smooth.

 

Here's another topic about the same issue. Sounds like it's kind of a common issue?

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/151080-2nd-to-3rd-gear-at-shift-flare-2011-2500hd-60l/

 

Thanks again for your help!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...