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Lift/level questions


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Posted

Where do I start........

 

(Back story)

I recently purchased a 2015 Silverado crew cab standard bed z71.

 

I had the BDS 2'' level installed and honesty thought that between the level and a new set of bigger tires I would be happy. Unfortunately I am. I've spent the past two weeks driving around with a tape measure in my truck and measuring the distance between the ground and the bottom of the fender when I see a parked truck that I like the stance of. Thankfully no one came out to find me doing it since I'm sure they would have had questions lol.

 

As my truck currently sits I'm 38.5" front and 39" rear. My crude data now shows me that my mind gravates towards 2" more out of the front and 3-4" out of the rear. I recently found a 2016 2500 duramax at the mall that was 40.75"F & 43.75". It was perfect in my opinion so I just want to get close.

 

 

First things first; I do NOT want to do anything that's not easily reversible. Therefore a true suspension lift such as the zone 4.5 is out of the question. I'm sure I'll get a ton people who say that's a dumb mentality to have but I just can't get my head around cutting anything such as the factory cross member. I also wouldn't mind retaining my bds level kit since I've already paid for it to be installed....

 

Secondly; I heavily considered the 2" body lift from performance accessories but the price + installation quickly surpassed a true suspension lift once adding extras like gap guards, rear extensions, etc.

 

So now I'm looking for a budget friendly way of getting my desired stance. Keep in mind if I'm honest this truck will never even see a dirt road let alone and kind of trailing. I plan to run my stock 18" midnight edition wheels with 275/70/18 duratracs. My initial thought was bilstein 5100's at the 2" lift setting and keep my bds level kit in place. I've read that bilstein doesn't recommend "stacking" but I've also read there's quite a few people here who have done it. Im hoping a front differential relocation bracket and new UCA's will mitigate the issues?

 

(Now for the questions)

 

1) Is there a aftermarket Upper Control Arm that will correct my ball joint angle while allowing my to retain my factory wheels?

 

2) recommendations for a front dif relocation kit?

 

3) rear would just require larger blocks and shock extensions correct?

 

4) [i know there's more proper ways to do this] but how "bad" of an idea is this?

Posted

"budget friendly" equates to paying twice to get it right.

I guess I should have probably left that statement out. I honestly wouldn't mind if the uca's were upwards of 1k if it meant no cutting and retaining factory wheels. I was just trying to say I don't want to spend $10,000 on a lift that will meet my requirements?

Posted

Your between a rock and a hard place. Coilovers, new ucas and a larger rear block can give you ~40 inches on 32s. Go with 33s or maybe even squeeze 34s for ~41 inches. Front diff spacers are no big deal, eBay hockey puck metal ones work fine. Your angles will be about that of a level kit, however tie rods won't be corrected and will wear faster, not that they are the first thing to wear away anyways. If you use a 2" block in the back you won't need shock extensions with most shocks like bilsteins or fox 2.0 as they account for up to a 1" above stock height.

 

Honestly just go with a bds lift kit. Skip the coilovers if you don't need off-road improvement. It'll cost you under 5 grand. You'll have peace of mind

 

 

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Posted

zone 1.5" body kit. costs $179 and takes a full Saturday to put in

If only I felt confident putting it in myself.....it'd be a no brainer. Local aftermarket truck shop wants 10hrs of labor at $65/hr

 

 

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Posted

"budget friendly" equates to paying twice to get it right.

 

 

I can't stress this one enough and totally agree. I have done this before and completely regretted it. In the end it costs you more than what you would have paid upfront, so think it out, and get what you want in the first place.

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