Jump to content

IPAD Air2/pro 9.7 indash kit (Factory 8 inch retained)

Shermo17

By Shermo17
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

Shermo17 Enthusiast

Shermo17

Posted
Posted

I know that this isnt for everyone a d i also know that there are brackets you can buy that will hold the IPAD infront of the dash...i just like doing this kind of stuff. I made an IPAD Air2 indash kit that will allow your factory screen to exist amd function. All bluetooth, steering wheel control, backup camera, functions are alao retained. I made one before that I liked alot but it didnt allow for the factory screen to remain in place and i missed my back up camera. I liked the one the guy did on here with the mini also. Not having the factory nav and using my ipad for media anyway was kinda my driving force. The one pictured is the 1st one of this design that I made i made a better one but sold it 2 days after I put it in my truck. working on a third one now...hadnt seen this done in our trucks with the factory screen in place so I thought Id try.20171211_190510.thumb.jpg.e47b6b92490e248b781e6c3c2be00590.jpg

PhotoGrid_1513970731182.jpg

Shermo17 Enthusiast

Shermo17

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorry I dont know how to rotate that 1st picture....at any rate here are a few photos of the 1st kit i made...had to remove/relocate the factory screen with this one tho...

PhotoGrid_1513972966909.jpg

bndawgs Senior Enthusiast

bndawgs

Posted
Posted

wow, that's impressive.   how does the bracket integrate with the factory trim piece?  

Shermo17 Enthusiast

Shermo17

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 hours ago, bndawgs said:

wow, that's impressive.   how does the bracket integrate with the factory trim piece?  

The same way the regular screen does...the black factory trim piece is what I use to make it. the original bezel fiberglass and mdf wood is used to make the mount...so i retained all the factory mounting spots etc....so for example if I was to make you one you would just remove your screen from the back of the factory bezel put ur screen into the kit amd plug and play.

 

 

Shermo17 Enthusiast

Shermo17

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 hours ago, bndawgs said:

wow, that's impressive.   how does the bracket integrate with the factory trim piece?  

thanks for the compliment also.

Shermo17 Enthusiast

Shermo17

Posted
  • Author
Posted
13 hours ago, bndawgs said:

wow, that's impressive.   how does the bracket integrate with the factory trim piece?  

thanks for the compliment also.

MIDNITEZ71 Enthusiast

MIDNITEZ71

Posted
Posted

wow this is the best iPad integration with the stock system i have seen.great job.....

now if you wanted to take this to the next level.Would be to remove the factory screen completely and use the iPad for both.so on the iPad you could switch between factory touch screen setting and then back to the standard iPad functions.Or would this be hard to do?

   Also the your system would work great with GM's 4G data plan.if you like stream a lot of video

BillZ71 New Member

BillZ71

Posted
Posted

Nice job.  It always amazes me when clever people put their mind to something. Again, truly well done.

 

Bill

Shermo17 Enthusiast

Shermo17

Posted
  • Author
Posted
8 hours ago, BillZ71 said:

Nice job.  It always amazes me when clever people put their mind to something. Again, truly well done.

 

Bill

Thanks alot for the kind words Bill much appreciated.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 4,078 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      J&L OIL SEPARATOR CO

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Grumpy Bear
      Starting a new thread regarding mounting my 2014 OEM wheels to my 2026

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • JAI3
      2016 Sierra 5.3L L83 new injectors now runs rich.

      By JAI3 · Posted

      I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Coastie05
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      No, but don't skimp on safe! 😉 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...