Jump to content

Throttle Body Clean

bgbdwlf2500

Recommended Posts

carnau Enthusiast

carnau

Posted
Posted

 

2 hours ago, txab said:

I always remove mine completely for cleaning and have never had an issue

It's not a throttle body issue it is a PCM issue. You could clean it anyway you want but if the PCM refuses to relearn the new idle and you're sucking a lot of air from cleaning where the carbon coking use to be. Now you have a 1/16 air gap in the the TB where it makes your vehicle race. Like I said replacing it with a new throttle body will not even fix this. It has to relearn the idle in the PCM and sometimes... It just won't.

 

 

bgbdwlf2500 Enthusiast

bgbdwlf2500

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, carnau said:

 

It's not a throttle body issue it is a PCM issue. You could clean it anyway you want but if the PCM refuses to relearn the new idle and you're sucking a lot of air from cleaning where the carbon coking use to be. Now you have a 1/16 air gap in the the TB where it makes your vehicle race. Like I said replacing it with a new throttle body will not even fix this. It has to relearn the idle in the PCM and sometimes... It just won't.

 

 

You win again, took like 15 mins, truck back to normal. Answer me this though. Is it worth buying a tech 2 at 250 bucks? I'm sure there is a lot of diagnosing it could still do to help with many issues or am I wrong?

GhostWriter Enthusiast

GhostWriter

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, bgbdwlf2500 said:

You win again, took like 15 mins, truck back to normal. Answer me this though. Is it worth buying a tech 2 at 250 bucks? I'm sure there is a lot of diagnosing it could still do to help with many issues or am I wrong?

Well, I don't really want to sound like the grumpy ol' man that I truly am, but you were advised, adequately, after the first response.

 

Once the throttle cable was eliminated from the equation, many of us have learned to be more careful with our GM throttle bodies.

 

No need for anyone to try to be legends in their own mind.

bgbdwlf2500 Enthusiast

bgbdwlf2500

Posted
  • Author
Posted
14 hours ago, GhostWriter said:

Well, I don't really want to sound like the grumpy ol' man that I truly am, but you were advised, adequately, after the first response.

 

Once the throttle cable was eliminated from the equation, many of us have learned to be more careful with our GM throttle bodies.

 

No need for anyone to try to be legends in their own mind.

At the end of the day the throttle body was not harmed, it was never going to fix itself and relearn where it should be. I tried at least 6 times to do a relearn procedure with it, unhooking the battery anywhere from 1 hour to overnight. I wasn't saying your response was not valid by any means, maybe it will relearn if you clean it regularly, this one had probably not been cleaned in 8 years or 128k miles of which I only put 25k on. The fact that the computer compensated for the dirt and the truck was running great means I should have left it alone until it fails and replace it. Then still have to go to the dealer to have it reset. I almost bought a$180 throttle body thinking I had messed it up by moving the blade by hand when in reality the fix was free even not driving to see carnau. My bottom line with cleaning at this point is I see no difference in the way the truck runs so I will never clean it again since the computer is compensating for it. Truck idles at 600 rpm just as smooth as it did before. 

carnau Enthusiast

carnau

Posted
Posted
On 1/26/2018 at 5:36 PM, bgbdwlf2500 said:

You win again, took like 15 mins, truck back to normal. Answer me this though. Is it worth buying a tech 2 at 250 bucks? I'm sure there is a lot of diagnosing it could still do to help with many issues or am I wrong?

I love my Tech 2 so I would say absolutely!

tbarn Senior Enthusiast

tbarn

Posted
Posted

For 4k 15 years ago you got a genuine Tech2 and a genuine Candi module. For $250 - 350 you get a Chinese knockoff. Probably fine for an average Joe. But I wouldn't do SPS programming with it.

  • 9 months later...
two_wheeled Enthusiast

two_wheeled

Posted
Posted
On 1/26/2018 at 3:36 PM, bgbdwlf2500 said:

You win again, took like 15 mins, truck back to normal. Answer me this though. Is it worth buying a tech 2 at 250 bucks? I'm sure there is a lot of diagnosing it could still do to help with many issues or am I wrong?

I had all of these same issues.  I replaced the TPS and cleaned the TB and then did the relearn procedure (idle 3 minutes, off 60 seconds, etc.).  It still took two weeks of driving around town to get it to relearn the rest of the way.  Now it's good.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,679
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Old Bay
    Newest Member
    Old Bay
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 924 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Fluid Change Questions

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I know when I was looking around last year to see if someone handled Amsoil gear oil to buy at the retail level which of course means full price. I found an independent shop that works a lot on GM/Duramax pickups and they did not bring in the 75W-85 as they just stuck to the 75W-90 for the front and rear as a standard practice for the HD trucks which makes sense anyway for the higher hp/torque diesel and pulling heavy loads in four wheel drive. I haven't changed my diff oils yet but still plan on using the 75W-85 for the front diff as I highly doubt I will be beating on the truck and figured for my use type the bit thinner oil would be to my benefit for the winter for that slightly less drag. Very different weather here all winter vs northern Washington near the coast, that's for sure. 
    • Chuck FB
      Oil Consumption

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Ok that confirms the extra quart theme they are still going with which must mean they have noted some initial use more so then some engines and probably the bigger factor in all of this probably isn't the engine so much as its the insane distance or OLM that lulls a lot of the driving public into driving their new vehicle off the lot and not even doing one short interval oil change because the manufacturer doesn't say different and if the dealer follows that logic as well. Selling the rarely needing to be serviced concept seems to go over well with the public that wants to get away with as little as possible for dollars spent on the vehicles maintenance and I bet there are 3.0 engines just like other vehicles out there that never have their oil checked by the owner which goes back to why they probably felt the need to add that extra quart to avoid a costly theme.    Speaking of cutting filters open, it was probably over two years ago now that a youtuber who buys vehicles to do longer term reviews and pulls a fifth wheel through the mountains of Colorado on summer trips and that becomes part of the testing. Anyway he had a GM HD with the 6.6 gas and a Ford 250 with the 7.3 gas at the same time and of no surprise the Ford had more power etc but somewhere along the way in the few thousand miles he put on the truck, he changed the oil and was seeing glitter and cut open the filter and yeah, things were not looking spectacular. The truck about that time or soon after seemed down on power compared to what it had been and then threw some engine code, I expect the cam/lifters were failing and so he brought the truck back to the dealer and made some deal to get out of it as he knew it would sit for months waiting on a new engine as they were so backlogged at the time. He kept the GM for some time after that using it exclusively until he sold it after buying his next vehicle to do a review on. Definitely the filter can tell a story when things are starting to go sideways, but it would be a sickening feeling to cut it open and be faced with an ugly mess like that and be running a magnet through the pleats and the oil on the dirty side of the filter and see all the fines sticking to the magnet.    The dealer may have some ideas based on experience as to where that coolant smell is coming from, I would imagine if they can't find it but its smelling they would put dye in it to they could give it a run cycle and use the black light to see where it pops up, if its a hose connection, water pump, rad or even a head gasket etc. 
    • riddler
      Torsion adjustment

      By riddler · Posted

      Good looking truck, suspensionmaxx looks like a solid option
    • riddler
      Torsion adjustment

      By riddler · Posted

      Thanks for the info, im considering a leveling kit or 4" lift kit.
    • davester
      frustrating P0446 code

      By davester · Posted

      charm.li (website) has the vehicle-specific diagnostic procedure for that code, you can use to find what the cause of it is.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...