Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

This truck is my job....if it doesn’t work neither do I......This morning the dealer told me it would be next week before they could get to it! No thanks, I’ll regen it myself! They said that there’s another identical truck doing the same thing and they’ve already thrown 3 DPFs in it. The customer picks up the truck, tows a 10,000 lb load up I-70 through the Eisenhower Tunnel and the truck goes into limp mode! Customer drops the truck back off and picks it up a week later. &repeat &repeat&......Apparently an engineer from GM is trying to figure it out? What a colossal waste of my time and money. 

  • 7 months later...
Posted

I have a customer using a 2017 silverado 3500ltz for hot shot hauling pulling a 40 ft gooseneck. now has 217k miles and on the 3rd set of headgaskets, 1 new head,4 exhaust valves, and an egr cooler with all the plumbing. this truck WILL NOT regen while driving. Has to be mznually regened every weekend.dealers have no clue except to charge him $300 a crack to regen when the warr. ran out.GM has no clue why this truck won't regen while driving. Has had the ecm reflashed7 times with two replacements due to internet errors that locked up the laptop and ecm.There is no aftermarket on any gaskets for this POS. Have to go to the dealer for all of it.I'm in northern ohio about to leave for southern kentucky to manually regen this truck along the road. has an extended warr.purchased at the dealer thats only good at that dealer.This truck is going to be traded in on a Ford asap!!!!!

  • 2 months later...
Posted

63,000 lost injector 7, 72,000 miles lost injector 5, replaced connectors on both, had no idea of the ECM issues.  Right now my trick is down with low voltage going to half the injectors, some one please tell me a re program of the ECM will fix me replacing injectors again.  Do I need to order a whole new ECM?

  • 1 month later...
  • 7 months later...
Posted

My experience has been somewhat of a nightmare.  Mostly on the quality side.  I bought it in July of 2019 with 9600 miles and now it has 32000 miles.  I havent had many problems with the engine itself but the jury is still out.  Below is a list of parts that have been replaced on my 2017 2500HD LTZ and the symptoms.

 

Power steering pump - making grinding noise while turning normal (i.e. it still makes noise when locked left or right, pretty normal for all pumps).  Took the dealer two visits and me driving with the tech to diagnose.

Fan clutch - AC would not work when outside temp over 100 DEGF, no engine overheating.  Took the dealer 3 visits to figure it out and of course it was out of warranty when they found the problem.

Water pump - After having the engine block heater recall done I would get the low coolant notification about once a week.  Top it off and a week later it would come back.  Dealer said they saw the weep hole dripping under pressure. 

                         They replaced the water pump and a week later the low coolant notification is back.  Probably a bubble in the system somewhere but they cant get the fill procedure correct I guess.

All front diff bearings replaced - When 4H was engaged there was a loud whirring noise.  Dealer replaced all the front diff bearings.  On the test drive after replacing they heard something in the transfer case.

Transfer case chain, drive and driven gears replaced - After replacing the diff bearings they heard something in the transfer case.  They opened it up and found the chain was loose.  They replaced the chain and gears.

Oil pan replaced - oil was weeping from the front of the pan.  After the third visit they found the leak.  They replaced the oil pan and resealed

Drivers side mirror replaced - The chrome cover and body were not matching up leaving a large gap.

Plastic strips between the cab and the bed peeling off - the first dealer wouldnt replace despite being in warranty.  The second dealer replaced and 5 months later they were pealing again.  I finally asked the dealer to just remove them.

 

The only thing I have had to pay for is the fan clutch which i only paid 40%.  I have been fighting with GM corporate for 6 months now about the quality of the truck and the fact that in the last year and a quarter they truck has been in the shop a total of 70 days.  This doesnt include the low coolant notification coming on three days ago.  That will add another 3-7 days most likely.  It blows my mind that GM cannot recognize that a power steering pump or a fan clutch, for example, should last longer than 25K.  They keep saying "sir, it was fixed under warranty" or "you only paid 40% of the cost", like they did me a favor.  The truth is those components should last at the very least 80K.  I realize it is all about money, I get it, but when you pay $60K for a truck that is touted as "heavy duty" you should expect those components to last quite a bit longer.

 

This is just my experience and reading about everyone's positive experiences gives me hope that things will start looking up for my 2500.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 473 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...