2000 k2500 5.7 cranks no start

[jaybird*oh]

I have a 2000 k2500 (old style) 5.7 208000 mi, that started and ran good for years, sat 3 weeks, cranks but won't start. Fuel pump pressure ( key on) 62# for 1second ,dropping to 58# and holding.Has spark to plugs and the plugs are dry. When cranking 3-4 seconds ,release key to run the engine wil kick back 1 or 2 times ( like chug-chug ). If cranking 8-10 seconds may chug 3-4 times. Once I cranked it about 15+ seconds it started ,went to high idle for 2 seconds and died. Fuel pressure holds at 55-58 over 1/2 hour ( key off ). I need help. 

[Dnt]

when did they change over to coil on plug? If you still have the old type with distributor cap and rotor button in your 2000 model  that is most likely your culprit. They were really bad about cross firing between the caps interior pins. Typically you will see carbon arc paths  when you pull it off and look at the interior.  

[Logan Lanfear]

Yeah, replace cap and rotor.  Then coil too if youre still getting issues.  Sounds like its kinda firing but not enough at the right time to keep it running.  

[jaybird*oh]

The ( chug-chug) that I mentioned was the engine turning backwards after cranking ,then releasing the key back to run position. When cranking there is no indication of it trying to start and it does turn over normally when cranking. I haven't checked the cap and rotor yet as I had to pull it out of the garage for the time being. I'll get back to it when the weather warms up. Thanks for the advice. 

[jaybird*oh]

A couple months ago I was having a no start problem with my 2000 k2500 5.7 pickup. At the time I was getting spark to the two plugs that I had put testers on so I was looking more toward a passlock system problem or maybe insufficient fuel pump pressure. ( It has 58 # cranking ) Calls for 60 - 66 # key on . 3 weeks ago I needed my inside space so I towed it out and let it set. Finely our weather warmed up this week and after a couple warm days in the 60's I tried it and it started right up, then it rained 2 days and back to crank,no start. When I had put my problem on this forum a couple of the suggestions were to replace the distributor cap and rotor. Yesterday I put a new cap and rotor on and it starts and runs good as ever. The inside of the old cap had white crusty buildup around the center and each cylinder contact. I 'm hoping my problems are solved and I want to thank those that gave me good advice.   

[MychevyisaBeast]

I have same problem excepted mine died while in gear with foot on brake and crank no start i have changed plugs wires distributer rotor fuel pump What could it be

[prairieman]

I recently purchased a 1997 C2500 5.7 last month.  Got it cheap becasue the PO gave up trying to solve a cranks/but no start problem.  The problem was random - truck would start several days in a row, then it wouldn't.  Come back to fault isolate the problem and it would start right up.  Rinse and repeat.  Never knew when it might start or not start.

 

After removing the dist. cap & rotor for a visual inspection; decided to disconnect, inspect and test the cam position sensor (back of the distributor).  It's a three pin connector.  I found white powdery corrosion on the pin for the pink wire.  Used electrical contact cleaner on the male and female sides of the cam sensor electrical connector.  I have 100% successful starting over the past 10 days.  

[VegasJen]

OK, this is NOT a typical failure, but it did happen to me.  I got my '99 on the cheap because these guys couldn't figure out why it wouldn't run.  When I got it, it had been sitting so long the cylinders were rusted and pistons frozen, so I was never able to go through normal troubleshooting procedures.  I pulled the distributor and immediately figured out what they couldn't.  The distributor was missing 3-4 teeth, so when it did turn, it was way out of time, but most of the time it just sat there and did nothing.

 

I only bring it up because these trucks are getting pretty long in the tooth and this is very easy to check.