Does anyone know the specs for the Bose audio?

[99Mastercraft]

13 hours ago, cpaul55 said:

You can pull your RPO codes from the sticker in the glove box and then look them up. Or you can email [email protected] and request your build sheet. You just need to supply your VIN in the email.

My RPO code on build sheet is UQA. Know anything about that one?

 

Thanks 

[2018GMC]

4 hours ago, 99Mastercraft said:

My RPO code on build sheet is UQA. Know anything about that one?

 

Thanks 

Google result:

UQA Bose Sound System premium 7-speaker system with amplifier in center console
1 - Included and only available with (Y3I) Infotainment Package II.

[99Mastercraft]

43 minutes ago, 2018GMC said:

Google result:

UQA Bose Sound System premium 7-speaker system with amplifier in center console
1 - Included and only available with (Y3I) Infotainment Package II.

just got off the phone with GMC parts and he said this is in my truck.. part # 22818981

 

where do you recommend I go to look at upgrading this and making it plug and play?

Edited May 7, 2020 by 99Mastercraft

[ftwhite]

By upgrade, do you mean the sub, or all 7 speakers? 

"Plug and Play" is a loose term.  

I "plug and played" my door speakers (to start off), with relatively low impedance Focal speakers and it was fine. Better. Not great. Fine.  

The sub is not really PnP, because it is integrated into the Bose amp (mine was mounted on the rear cab wall). It can be replaced, but you need to make sure the replacement gets the right signal and has its own amplification. I think Kicker has a product for "just sub" replacement in the center console, or under the rear seat. 

By the time I got to my sub replacement (JL Audio Stealth), I had already replaced the Bose Amp with a pair of JL Audio amps (huge improvement), and upgraded dash speakers (much better mids). That meant installing a NavTV processor that allows the aftermarket amp stuff to use the headunit signals but keep the door chimes, phone, and environment sounds. There are other similar solutions out there now.  

At that point, replacing the JL Sub in the center console was PnP...and is an awesome upgrade.    

[Cupton]

I've got an '18 crew cab, SLT all-terrain with the Bose system and navigation. I think the system sounds great (for the music I listen to) but this past weekend my son was in the back seat and was saying he had a hard time even hearing that the speakers were on when the volume wasn't up to high. That got me thinking about maybe upgrading just the speakers in the doors in the back. Then thought that maybe that would be a bad idea just to do the back, so I thought maybe do the front and back. Looks like I need to go through this thread a little bit since it sounds like the Bose system might be a little tricky to work with. This is NOT my area of expertise.

[Mplsjdub]

My front passenger door Bose speaker sounds like crap so I was going to change out all speakers. I called crutchfield because I was reading different info about the factory Bose speakers ohm rating and crutchfield claim that the dash and rear speakers are 3.2 ohm and the front doors are 4 ohm. This is in a 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali crew cab. 

Now im really confused. Why can’t gm/Bose put the specs on speaker like most do?

[Chadious80]

On 6/3/2018 at 8:48 AM, 2018GMC said:

I replaced the stock bose 6” sub with a 10” JL Stealthbox that fits under center console. Added a JL audio 300w1v2 amp and audio control lc2i. I left the 4 door and 2 dash speakers stock bose running off 175w bose amp. 

 

IMO sound perfect! Lots of low end bass at ALL volumes. No more bass fade at big volume. 

 

Only problem now is center console rattles!

 

jl also offers a dual 10” under rear seat Stealthbox but I didn’t want to loose under rear seat storage. 

I have that same Stealthbox and amp on order now for my truck. Where did you mount the amp? Is the audio control LC2I required? I want to get it done right the first time and not have to redo a bunch of stuff

[2018GMC]

I used the LC2I and one of the wires off the factory Bose subwoofer plug for the amp power signal. Still rocking my JL stealthbox in center console. Has been good except had to reseal stealthbox box where woofer mates to box there was an air leak. 

[2018GMC]

On 8/10/2022 at 8:12 PM, Chadious80 said:

I have that same Stealthbox and amp on order now for my truck. Where did you mount the amp? Is the audio control LC2I required? I want to get it done right the first time and not have to redo a bunch of stuff

I used the LC2I and one of the wires off the factory Bose subwoofer plug for the amp power signal. Still rocking my JL stealthbox in center console. Has been good except had to reseal stealthbox box where woofer mates to box there was an air leak. 
I mounted amp an lc2i under the rear seat. Ran all the wires along the passenger side under door sill covers. 

 

Edited August 14, 2022 by 2018GMC

[Chadious80]

On 8/13/2022 at 6:08 PM, 2018GMC said:

I used the LC2I and one of the wires off the factory Bose subwoofer plug for the amp power signal. Still rocking my JL stealthbox in center console. Has been good except had to reseal stealthbox box where woofer mates to box there was an air leak. 

There is only two sub wires from the Bose system right? Did you put a jumper wire on the input to the LC2I then run a pair of RCAs to the amp? I can’t find a definitive answer online anywhere. 
Thanks

[2018GMC]

23 hours ago, Chadious80 said:

There is only two sub wires from the Bose system right? Did you put a jumper wire on the input to the LC2I then run a pair of RCAs to the amp? I can’t find a definitive answer online anywhere. 
Thanks

Yes. I used the two wires from the Bose sub plug as the speaker level inputs on the lc2i. That’s the thick black speaker wire I ran from Bose sub plug into LC2i left speaker input. Since there was only one speaker level input from sub I ran it to the left input on the LC2i then just used some short wire to jump the left to right input on lc2i. Not sure if that even mattered. My JL XD300/1v2 turns on when it senses audio from the rca input so no remote wire needed. 

[Chadious80]

31 minutes ago, 2018GMC said:

Yes. I used the two wires from the Bose sub plug as the speaker level inputs on the lc2i. That’s the thick black speaker wire I ran from Bose sub plug into LC2i left speaker input. Since there was only one speaker level input from sub I ran it to the left input on the LC2i then just used some short wire to jump the left to right input on lc2i. Not sure if that even mattered. My JL XD300/1v2 turns on when it senses audio from the rca input so no remote wire needed. 

Awesome! Thats how I’ll wire mine. Can’t wait to get some depth to the bass. 

[2UNES]

Just did a sub addition to 2017 Sierra CC with Bose, pretty straightforward job.

 

I considered the Kicker plug & play from GM but figured I'd rather be able to upgrade amp/sub in future instead.

 

Ran 4g Stinger power wire from battery to rear wall, down passenger side (used the fender to door jamb route)

Removed rear seats to access factory amp wires, tied into factory sub wires at amp with Kicker KISLOC2 (line out converter)

From that to Kenwood 300w RMS x1 amp to an under seat Kicker CompC 10" box (rated for 300w rms).

The KISLOC2 needs no power and has a built in remote turn-on wire for amp, that was convenient.

 

The sound is greatly improved! the 10" sub & 300w is not an eyeball wiggler setup but it hits hard. Big improvement from stock.

The amp was free from my son(but no bass knob dangit), the wire kit ($70), CompC 10" box ($150) and KISLOC2 ($30) ...so only $250 for the upgrade was a breeze.

 

Next step: switch out to a  Kicker L7 12" down firing box and 500w or so monoblock amp (with bass knob), then switch out factory door & dash speakers. I don't think there's a need to replace head unit or factory amp, but we'll see.

[2UNES]

Been a year already. The 10" sub and 500w were good but I had to move up, now Kicker L7 12" downfiring box and Skar EVL 12 running off D4S JP8 amp(.67 ohm load total!). The amp needs plenty of power to run but it rips! If you are planning a system read this: Should have ran 1/0 power wire instead of 4 gauge, will need to replace it sooner than later. Would like to figure out best way to do 2- 12" underseat subs to get rid of the big EVL 12 box but this current setup will be hard to beat given the small underseat volume. Even with a seat lift it will be limited.

Also replaced door/dash speakers with Kenwood Excelon set, sounds cleaner but they need more power so next step is 4ch amp for them, thinking 100w x4 for all door speakers or bridged 200wx2 for fronts only.

FWIW, the factory Bose 6x9 measured 2ohm, the Bose dash 3.6 ohm with a multimeter, the Kenwood stuff is about 3.9 on both. Some say that's not a true way to measure for a speaker resistance, but that's what I got just for a comparison.

Edited November 27, 2023 by 2UNES
typos