Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
51 minutes ago, Jaychevy81 said:


I did the Kicker sub and still put the under seat storage bin just cut it off where the sub fits. The one sub is def good. Plus it’s all in 1 I like the staying as close to factory as possible.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can’t do the kicker upgrade since I have the bose system. 

Posted
I can’t do the kicker upgrade since I have the bose system. 

Of coarse you can I have the Bose with sub in the center console and the Kicker sub under the rear passenger seat. They make a Kicker sub only sounds great.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
1 minute ago, Jaychevy81 said:


Of coarse you can I have the Bose with sub in the center console and the Kicker sub under the rear passenger seat. They make a Kicker sub only sounds great.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you talking about the kicker plug and play from gm?

Posted
Are you talking about the kicker plug and play from gm?

Yes that’s the one I have the console sub active and the Kicker sub as well so 6 speakers and 2 subs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
32 minutes ago, Jaychevy81 said:


Yes that’s the one I have the console sub active and the Kicker sub as well so 6 speakers and 2 subs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmm I read from Chevy that sub does not work with the Bose setup. But it’s all good, I’m going to get aftermarket anyways

Posted
6 hours ago, Willie will said:

Hmm I read from Chevy that sub does not work with the Bose setup. But it’s all good, I’m going to get aftermarket anyways

 

There's a kit for non Bose with an amp, and a kit with Bose with no amp.  

Posted

Does anyone know if I can add a Bose sub to a non existing nose system? My truck is a 14 Silverado LT 1500 crew cab with the regular system. Non Bose but I’d like to add the Bose sub to the existing system.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I don’t think that can be done Bose uses its own amps and wiring I doubt the wiring would be installed without having that option.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Not to really bring up an old topic, but I had the JL Stealthbox and man does it rattle that center console.  So much so that I ended up switching it for 2-12" Rockford Fosgate P3 Shallows in a box that fits under the rear seat, sounded great until the box decided to blow apart. I put some sound dampener all over the center console, but the rattles never stopped.  I just kept chasing down rattle after rattle, and with these new trucks being so quiet from the factory, it really ticks me off to hear any vibration.  

Posted

Where were your rattles with the Stealthbox? I thought I had a bad rattle but my stelthbox had a small air leak where 10” sub mounts. Fixed temporarily. Not impressed with JL support so far. 

Posted (edited)
On 6/15/2018 at 6:03 PM, 2009GMC said:

Where were your rattles with the Stealthbox? I thought I had a bad rattle but my stelthbox had a small air leak where 10” sub mounts. Fixed temporarily. Not impressed with JL support so far. 

You too? Mine does that too! Let me know what they do.  But mine sounded like junk just due to the rattles, but I had rattles all over the console and then there was one I could never chase down on the passenger side.

 

How did you temporarily fix it?

Edited by visegrips
Posted

anyone got a link to the kicker plug and play sub?... .. i agree with some of the posts.. i think the bose sounds good.. i feel the thump from the small sub, but would like to add a little more bump..

 

aslo... plug and play... hows that work... where do you plug in, and does the kicker have its own amp?

Posted
29 minutes ago, Crstfr said:

anyone got a link to the kicker plug and play sub?... .. i agree with some of the posts.. i think the bose sounds good.. i feel the thump from the small sub, but would like to add a little more bump..

 

aslo... plug and play... hows that work... where do you plug in, and does the kicker have its own amp?

Chevy the gmc website and you find it there. I believe the plug and play are for trucks that have the Bose system already in it. If you do have the Bose system then you should have a factory amp back there where you can PNP. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 6/15/2018 at 10:45 PM, visegrips said:

Not to really bring up an old topic, but I had the JL Stealthbox and man does it rattle that center console.  So much so that I ended up switching it for 2-12" Rockford Fosgate P3 Shallows in a box that fits under the rear seat, sounded great until the box decided to blow apart. I put some sound dampener all over the center console, but the rattles never stopped.  I just kept chasing down rattle after rattle, and with these new trucks being so quiet from the factory, it really ticks me off to hear any vibration.  

What box were you using?

Posted
18 minutes ago, Willie will said:

What box were you using?

Some junk box that was $100 on Amazon.  I couldn’t seal it well without ripping the whole thing apart.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Which one, the AT or AS?   Starfire is made by Cooper/Goodyear but at $85/tire I'd think I'd need to level-set my expectations that they may not even be round 😉 But you're saying they're decent?   I'm already into this thing $1506 in parts, fluids, etc. Totaled all my receipts today. $250 of that was replacing an EGR and MAP sensor that were probably fine, but I'm not going to return the parts since they've been installed. I'm cheap, but not that cheap. I use it, I keep it!   I may or may not make money if I sell the truck at this point, but, that wasn't really the point. And if I billed my time, I'd be hosed for real. My thought on the tires is I "might" put 1,000 miles on before selling it. I just don't want to put absolute junk on it, that doesn't do anyone any good. If the Solus solidly isn't junk, I'll definitely consider them.        
    • I leave mine as is. I'm always a trip away from riding on unpaved roads. Dealer can clean it when they prep it after I trade it in for another new truck.
    • I have these on two vehicles and love them. Pepper is one of them 😉 
    • 4WD. Far as I know it came stock with P's and not LT's. Definitely planning to put P's on it, but stock is a 109 XL load rating so I should probably stick within that guideline.   No rebates on anything I can see at the moment. Discount Tire is offering $50 off, but Pep Boys is very competitive on price, and also carries all the off-brand stuff. Les Schwab always wants an arm/leg, but they do good work.   It still has the original spare. Goodyear Wrangler RT/S, thing looks like a tractor tire LOL!! How times have changed.    
    • 2020 Sierra 2500 HD (base model) gas engine 4wd.    All 4 windows roll down on their own. Happens somewhat randomly after stop and engine off - when engine turned off, when walking away from vehicle before or after locks activated. Pulled the window fuse F14 Instrument Panel Fuse Block Right; the driver's side still activates from driver's side door panel; passenger and back seat windows activate from local switches on their doors but not from driver's side group of switches. Power mirrors don't activate with fuse removed either (same fuse for both circuits). Problem not solved.    How can they even activate with fuse removed but they are all still opening and can control from each door?  When they open on their own, I can shut them from the switch in each door, but they don't stay closed.    Seems to be activated somehow with key fob; something bumping the key fob in my pocket or just handling - removed key fob and took it far enough away and now the windows stay closed. Replaced key fob batty just in case, no change.    Sounds like some kind of wiring short or maybe electronics. Dealer will first replace electronic control module without checking anything else and I anticipate problem will still exist since their troubleshooting skills are limited to "do whatever the computer says".  In any case, keyfob seems to be activating the circuitry.    Surely I'm not the only one with this issue, but I can't find anything related on the site. What do yall think?   JohnRoy  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...