Upper Bellhousing Fuel Line Stud/Nut Removal Question

Quadrasteer · June 19, 2018

Bought the split Dorman kit to replace the fuel lines on my '02 SD. That stud/nut on the bellhousing is a bitch to get at, I could use some advice on getting it off. I can see it and I sprayed it with penetrant but not sure how to get to it to remove it. If anyone has done this before please let me know....;

Supreme Pizza · June 19, 2018

I assume that you are trying to remove the old fuel lines, and there is a bracket on the bellhousing bolt? Anyway, here a solution to that issue:

Don't remove the old fuel lines. Just disconnect them , push them aside, and install your new lines. I did this recently on a complete brake line replacement, and it saved a lot of time.

If your worried about using the mounting brackets, just cut a piece of vacuum hose lengthwise, and put the fuel line in the hose, then zip tie that whole thing to the old fuel line. This will secure the new fuel line very well , and prevent movement.

Supreme Pizza · June 19, 2018

Example pics from Google. Only difference is you zip tie the old and new fuel lines together.

Quadrasteer · June 19, 2018

43 minutes ago, starman8tdc said:

I assume that you are trying to remove the old fuel lines, and there is a bracket on the bellhousing bolt? Anyway, here a solution to that issue:

Don't remove the old fuel lines. Just disconnect them , push them aside, and install your new lines. I did this recently on a complete brake line replacement, and it saved a lot of time.

If your worried about using the mounting brackets, just cut a piece of vacuum hose lengthwise, and put the fuel line in the hose, then zip tie that whole thing to the old fuel line. This will secure the new fuel line very well , and prevent movement.

Interesting, I thought about just cutting it ALL out and leaving that attachment point off. I read that it was not easy to get the new lines in so it might be even harder if the old ones were in the way. I still would like to know how others got that nut off. I might end up just doing what you said, thanks. Great idea for the brake lines too, my SS lines wore through and had to be replaced.

Supreme Pizza · June 19, 2018

Can you send pics of the bolt you are trying to access? I am pretty good at coming up with solutions to that kind of thing. (or so I have been told).

Supreme Pizza · June 19, 2018

Make sure to tape the fuel lines closed before installing them, or they will get loaded up with dirt as you snake them through the vehicle. Its not a bad idea to get the entire line hooked up, but leave the fuel rail disconnected. Then put a piece of hose on the fuel line and run it into a bucket. Then activate the fuel pump for several seconds to flush the line. It would be a bummer to mess up your fuel injectors from debris that were left int he tubes from he factory, or dirt from the rig.

Quadrasteer · June 20, 2018

Picture? You can barely see it.....they come with caps on them but thats a good ides to tape it anyway. I know people have done this but it's hit and miss if they're reading this post. I have the tools and the know how but it would be nice to do it without a long struggle.

Supreme Pizza · June 20, 2018

A short video of the bolt location? Pictures, using mirrors? I removed 3 bolts today that the other mechanics could not get out. Well, technically 2 bolts and a carburetor screw.

Quadrasteer · June 20, 2018

8 minutes ago, starman8tdc said:

A short video of the bolt location? Pictures, using mirrors? I removed 3 bolts today that the other mechanics could not get out. Well, technically 2 bolts and a carburetor screw.

Back of the engine/top of bell housing....if I could get a mirror and camera shot in I could get the bolt out. Looking for someone that has already done it.

From another post: "remove front driveshaft
-loosen pass side body mount bolts 2 -3 turns
-remove driver's side body mount bolts and jack up the body 1"- use 2x4 over top of mounts - do not use jacks to support body
This gave me room. Fortunately the 13mm nut was loose.
From underneath it took more than 1 hour to reinstall the bracket - it was all about finding the right angles.
I used the Fineline pipe kit which is split into 2 sections to get past the ABS unit(loosened it off the frame.
If the fittings are rusted on first use penetrating fluid. If that will not release the collar warm it up with a heat gun to allow it to release from the rusty line. I worked on the pump and lines at a retired person's pace - took me two days.(and about 40 days worth of cursing GM design dept)
I would not want to get paid flat rate to change fuel lines especially if they're rusty."

Supreme Pizza · June 20, 2018

It took that guy 2 days to get the bolt out? No way man, there has to be a better solution. I have literally shot holes in things with my sidearm to gain access for bolt removal. Sometimes ya got to do, what ya got to do. If it needs to be done, and it needs to be done now, make it happen. Its like battlefield triage - cut your loses and get the job done.

From what I can tell of your situation, without any pics, I would drill a hole in the firewall under the dash, and feed about 10 socket extensions through to the bellhousing. Then just hit that area with a little bit of expanding foam to seal it up.

PTXer · June 20, 2018

I have a set of replacement fuel lines ready to go too, but am not looking forward to that bellhousing nut. I supposedly have to remove the ABS module and torque tubes crossmember to get the back half of the set in. I have also read to remove the front driveshaft and use two 12" extensions and a swivel socket to get that thing off from the back. Also read that someone sat up on top of his engine and reached down around and got it off that way. Let us know how it goes....

Quadrasteer · June 22, 2018

I tried at the top rear of the engine and so far no go. It's too far down for my hands and no tool that I have, and I have many, will fit enough to turn the nut. There are many different styles of wrenches available today, I'll have to look into them. I can get a long box wrench over the nut but it does get onto it enough and there is almost no room to turn it. You can't even get in there to twist or break it off. Going to try from the bottom and then decide what to do.

Called the tech at Dorman and he said that when he worked at GM they got the nut off from the top, very hard, very slow. I can't see how unless they had a special shape wrench.

Edited June 22, 2018 by Quadrasteer

Supreme Pizza · June 22, 2018

Perhaps parking the vehicle facing up or down a steep hill will help.

If you do not set the parking brake, and put it in park, this will flex the motor mounts one way or the other depending on which way the truck is facing. This MAY move the motor away from the firewall a little, making the bolt easier to reach.

Some of these may help as well: