Front end popping

[WS6FirebirdTA00]

The downshift may have been fixed with a software update or relearn. Depending on the year, I see the early calibrations with much faster downshift times than mine. I moved mine closer, but it is still 0.100-0.200 seconds slower in spots.

 

I checked the torque on mine. The driver strut was not to spec and some of the LCA bolts were slightly under. I have issues replicating, but I guess that is good. I only notice it on sharp turns when I drive into it hard. It just bothers me it happened 2x this week.

[WCMS]

On 7/5/2019 at 9:48 PM, FIREBLADE74 said:

I took mine in today for the popping and harsh downshift.

 

I was told that they retourqued everything but still had the popping so they are going to replace the leaf springs eventhough I told them it was heard near the front.

 

They told me that the leaf springs could transfer through to the front, I call BS.

 

I ask what did they do for the hard shifting and he said the leaf springs are causing that too, I call BS.

 

Either way they are replacing the leaf springs once they come in. Ill be honest I haven't had a hard down shift after I took it in.

Did replacing the springs help with the popping? Been too 3 different mechanics. My spring make a lot of noise but I didn’t think I would be able too feel it up in my feet. 

[Paul_’18 Silverado]

So....is there a solution to this problem or more speculation?

[Apexwagon]

Looking for a solution to this problem too. I get front end popping at slow speeds with sharper turns too, especially off-camber loading one side more than another. 

[Levity]

After having the same popping noise on my recently purchased 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE I took it into the dealership who told me it was the struts due to a 3" leveling kit that was put on it. They recommended a bunch of repairs totaling over $3800. Not feeling satisfied in the answer I took it to another mechanic who told me I needed new tie rods/ball joints to get rid of the problem and it would cost $1700. Still not being satisfied I took it to yet another mechanic who told me It wasn't any of that. It was the Rack and Pinion that needed to be replaced and it would cost $2200 + an alignment. I didn't like any of those answers so I began researching myself and found this issue was the Rack and Pinion Dampner rings. The fix costed $40.

 

https://youtu.be/NFdokVsNgag

 

Moral of the story... Mechanics suck now days and are only looking to make a quick buck. You have to do it yourself.

 

 

SB-10072150-0335.pdf

Edited September 21, 2021 by Levity

[Apexwagon]

I had the popping noise at low speed/sharp turns and side to side weight shifting (pulling out of my flat driveway goes to a slightly uphill road) I ended up loosening and re torquing the LCA’s to the above 129ft/lb. Popping gone for me. I noticed my drivers side front bolt was significantly more loose compared to the rest. 
 

2.5” level with Bilstien 5100’s and had 35’s on there until last week. 
 

Took ~30min with driving up on ramps, gathering tools, and drinking a beer. 

[wmcgahey]

Had this issue pop up last week. It was a bad sway bar link. Went ahead and replaced both sides. Took about and hour and 30 of that was rounding up tools and such. 

[lschafroth]

I have a 2015 GMC Sierra all-terrain 4x4 with a 4-in level. I've had that same popping or grinding sound and assumed it was the steering rack, but it is the crossmember that's loose. I have tightened the crossmember to torque specifications four times. It lasts for about 4 days and then as loose again. Do I need to get different bolts for this thing or should I just weld the crossmember in place?

Edited August 8, 2022 by lschafroth

[thmj77]

My 2016 Silverado 1500 LT Z71 5.3L does the same exact thing. My first time actually googled it and right from the very first result on down I seen many people are having the same issue. iOS am not a certified tech but much of what I have been reading is in agreement with the knowledge and experience I do have assuming you’re hearing the same noise from the same location appears it could most likely be in ascending order the CV joint, ball joint, strut, brake caliper, motor mount. If it were a wheel bearing other symptoms and noises would be present and precede the clunk.