Front end popping

[WS6FirebirdTA00]

The downshift may have been fixed with a software update or relearn. Depending on the year, I see the early calibrations with much faster downshift times than mine. I moved mine closer, but it is still 0.100-0.200 seconds slower in spots.

 

I checked the torque on mine. The driver strut was not to spec and some of the LCA bolts were slightly under. I have issues replicating, but I guess that is good. I only notice it on sharp turns when I drive into it hard. It just bothers me it happened 2x this week.

[WCMS]

On 7/5/2019 at 9:48 PM, FIREBLADE74 said:

I took mine in today for the popping and harsh downshift.

 

I was told that they retourqued everything but still had the popping so they are going to replace the leaf springs eventhough I told them it was heard near the front.

 

They told me that the leaf springs could transfer through to the front, I call BS.

 

I ask what did they do for the hard shifting and he said the leaf springs are causing that too, I call BS.

 

Either way they are replacing the leaf springs once they come in. Ill be honest I haven't had a hard down shift after I took it in.

Did replacing the springs help with the popping? Been too 3 different mechanics. My spring make a lot of noise but I didn’t think I would be able too feel it up in my feet. 

[Paul_’18 Silverado]

So....is there a solution to this problem or more speculation?

[Apexwagon]

Looking for a solution to this problem too. I get front end popping at slow speeds with sharper turns too, especially off-camber loading one side more than another. 

[Levity]

After having the same popping noise on my recently purchased 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE I took it into the dealership who told me it was the struts due to a 3" leveling kit that was put on it. They recommended a bunch of repairs totaling over $3800. Not feeling satisfied in the answer I took it to another mechanic who told me I needed new tie rods/ball joints to get rid of the problem and it would cost $1700. Still not being satisfied I took it to yet another mechanic who told me It wasn't any of that. It was the Rack and Pinion that needed to be replaced and it would cost $2200 + an alignment. I didn't like any of those answers so I began researching myself and found this issue was the Rack and Pinion Dampner rings. The fix costed $40.

 

https://youtu.be/NFdokVsNgag

 

Moral of the story... Mechanics suck now days and are only looking to make a quick buck. You have to do it yourself.

 

 

SB-10072150-0335.pdf

Edited September 21, 2021 by Levity

[Apexwagon]

I had the popping noise at low speed/sharp turns and side to side weight shifting (pulling out of my flat driveway goes to a slightly uphill road) I ended up loosening and re torquing the LCA’s to the above 129ft/lb. Popping gone for me. I noticed my drivers side front bolt was significantly more loose compared to the rest. 
 

2.5” level with Bilstien 5100’s and had 35’s on there until last week. 
 

Took ~30min with driving up on ramps, gathering tools, and drinking a beer. 

[wmcgahey]

Had this issue pop up last week. It was a bad sway bar link. Went ahead and replaced both sides. Took about and hour and 30 of that was rounding up tools and such. 

[lschafroth]

I have a 2015 GMC Sierra all-terrain 4x4 with a 4-in level. I've had that same popping or grinding sound and assumed it was the steering rack, but it is the crossmember that's loose. I have tightened the crossmember to torque specifications four times. It lasts for about 4 days and then as loose again. Do I need to get different bolts for this thing or should I just weld the crossmember in place?

Edited August 8, 2022 by lschafroth