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Vibration after dealer installed bilsteins?

truckguy82

By truckguy82
in Modifications & Accessories

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truckguy82 Senior Enthusiast

truckguy82

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21 minutes ago, A.J. Curtis said:

:banghead: The "shock"  once they swap the oem spring on is a coil over! Jesus dude!!!!!

 

"Bilstein B8 5100 (Ride Height Adjustable) shock absorbers are designed for trucks and SUV's with a front OE Coilover style suspension."

 

 

Did you completely change the front suspension to a different design like Leaf spring or torsion bar?

?????? Ok by definition yes the coilover is the whole assembly including the shock.

 

in the aftermarket world, it’s popular to convert to coilovers, and coilovers are the spring/perch assembly and the shocks are the shocks

 

Example: “I just installed koni yellow shocks and ground control coilovers”

 

You said I installed aftermarket coilovers when I installed an aftermarket shock on factory coil-over suspension

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truckguy82 Senior Enthusiast

truckguy82

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1 minute ago, tbarn said:

You do NOT need an alignment because of shock replacement only. Alignments are done via upper control arms and tie rods. NONE of this changes when replacing front shocks on your truck. If it truly started after they worked on it then you have a tire balance/road force issue.

Thank you! That is what I suspected.

Brianibew Enthusiast

Brianibew

Posted
Posted

Pull your wheels back off, and wire brush the faces  of where the hat of the brake rotor, and the actual wheel meet up.  This is sooo overlooked when people pull their wheels off.  A buildup of rust/corrosion happens and creates an uneven surface and can actually distort the rotor when the lugnuts are tightened.  Also, torque your wheels in a two step method, half the torque the first time around, then final torque.

captainzombie Enthusiast

captainzombie

Posted
Posted
Rears I did myself, they are really easy and anybody that has ever turned a wrench should do them on their own. It’s literally two bolts.
 
I had the dealer do my fronts at 1/2 labor for each shock. Costed me $120 in labor.
 
I had just bilsteins on the rear for like 6 months. I thought it solved most of the ride issue and wasn’t in a rush for the fronts. Man was i wrong, ride is so much better with the fronts on.
 
Don’t wait to put them on.


That is not bad at all. I might just do them myself then.

I do think the Ranchos on the Silverado are better than when I had them on my Z71 Colorado, honestly two different trucks and frames. I do still wish for the cost of the Z71 package they should of been better quality.
Baldhills Enthusiast

Baldhills

Posted
Posted
Pull your wheels back off, and wire brush the faces  of where the hat of the brake rotor, and the actual wheel meet up.  This is sooo overlooked when people pull their wheels off.  A buildup of rust/corrosion happens and creates an uneven surface and can actually distort the rotor when the lugnuts are tightened.  Also, torque your wheels in a two step method, half the torque the first time around, then final torque.

Discount tire does this.


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Brianibew Enthusiast

Brianibew

Posted
Posted
12 minutes ago, Baldhills said:


Discount tire does this.


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Sometimes...and usually half a**ed.  That aluminum wheel usually needs some work to remove ALL the corrosion.

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