Jump to content

Bummed...


bowtie_pasta

Recommended Posts

Posted

I must be a dummy. Was putting a new battery in the 97 Blazer tonight after work and dropped my wrench across the two leads. Arc'd like a mother! Ruined the new battery, ruined the negative battery cable, partially ruined the positive battery cable.

 

I'm so frustrated right now. They will probably make me buy a whole new battery. :thumbs::chevy::cheers:

Posted

Geez that sucks! The same thing happened to me years ago (to a lesser degree, no permanent damage). Now, I usually leave the plastic caps on the posts until I connect the terminals. Hindsight is 20/20 huh. :thumbs:

Posted

My brother's wrench extension rolled to touch both ends once, the battery still worked(well, for a year or two more), but part of the terminals were melted! Scared us, we didn't realized what had happened for a second1

Posted

I ran the aircraft battery shop at the Marine Corps Air Station in Yuma Az back in '79.

 

We had a guy stop by who wanted us to look at the battery in his car out in the parking lot. While taking it out for us, he too dropped a wrench across both terminals . The sparks ignited the hydrogen gas and blew up the battery. He was very lucky that the blast deflected away from him. Acid and schrapnel was all over the engine compartment and fenders. Blew the hood back over the windshield. We all thought a practice bomb went off (they were doing bomb runs that day). I was part of the response team to 'neutralize the spill'.

 

RULES of THUMB:

1.

When using metal tools around a baterry, always keep one teminal covered with some kind of insulator. Even a shop cloth or rag will help.

 

2.

Before doing any battery work blow air (even your breadth will do) across the top of the battery. Especially on a hot day. This will help disipate any gas build ups.

 

3.

NEVER NEVER NEVER spark a battery to see if it still has juice in it. You see a lot of people doing this when they try to give someone a jump. You are just waiting for to blow somthing up and it just might be you. I've seen quite a number of batteries where this has happened and a few of the people it happend to. It ain't pretty.

 

bummed.

Posted

ya think maybe I was a little to aggressive in my use of NEVER? :thumbs:

 

 

the newer maintenance free batteries are not as bad as the older type where you had access to individual cells. In the older type, the vent caps were known to not relieve pressure properly all time thus setting up the potential for an 'incident'.

 

 

I too question Hydrogen in passenger vehicles. just imagine a fuel cell rupture during an accident. It would be a whole lot worse that a gas spill.

Posted

Guys, I was literally 2 minutes away from being finished. I had already tightened the positive lead down and was working on the negative lead, it was only a couple threads in when the wrench slipped and crossed both leads. Everything happened so d**n fast, I was like "oh sh*t, oh sh*t, oh sh*t!!!"

 

You should see the wrench, both ends burnt like someone took an arc welder to it!

 

What's bugging me right now is I want to get this thing fixed, but my wife's at work with the other truck and I'm at home taking care of my kid. After she gets home I'm gonna have to go to work so I probably won't get to work on it until tomorrow.

 

One thing's for sure, this will NEVER happen again!

Posted

I'm just glad to hear that no one got injured, :thumbs:

 

but then again, that may change though when "she who must be obeyed" gets home.... :mad::chevy::cheers:

 

Seriously, batteries and wrenches are replacable, you are not.

Posted

We had a wrech fall and land on the battery of one of our self contained kart starters. Luckily it bounced off. It did leave a nice little mark on the wrench though. :thumbs:

Posted

Well I got it repaired guys.

 

Pep Boys was kind enough to give me a free replacement, with manager approval of course. Thank you Pep Boys!!! :chevy:

 

I was able to replace both lugs and reinstalled the negative cable. All is well and she's purrin' like a kitten again.

 

Thanks for the support peeps! :thumbs:

Posted

Glad to see Pep Boys did ya good and even more glad to see nothing happened to you in the "incident"! :thumbs:

 

I know, after reading this thread, I will most def be extra careful the next time I have to mess with a battery! You never know when one of them could just blow! :chevy:

Posted
I too question Hydrogen in passenger vehicles. just imagine a fuel cell rupture during an accident. It would be a whole lot worse that a gas spill.

I have some stock in a company named Energy Visions Inc. They have developed a fuel cell that uses methanol as a fuel. I thing that is safer and easier to distribute the general public. Some day one of the big manufacturers are going to gobble this little company up ... it's a cheep stock but if that happens I may finally make some money.

Posted

 

 

I too question Hydrogen in passenger vehicles.  just imagine a fuel cell rupture during an accident.  It would be a whole lot worse that a gas spill.

I have some stock in a company named Energy Visions Inc. They have developed a fuel cell that uses methanol as a fuel. I thing that is safer and easier to distribute the general public. Some day one of the big manufacturers are going to gobble this little company up ... it's a cheep stock but if that happens I may finally make some money.

We run methanol in the race karts here. The only problem I see with it now is that it cost $3 a gallon.

Posted
Seriously, batteries and wrenches are replacable, you are not.

After the talk about the wife, I had to be sure there was an "R" in that "wrenches" :)

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...