After Market Alarm System???

MRob · November 30, 2018

So, I'm in the shop that does my window tinting... I've done a lot of business there in the past, so I know their work. It's good, reliable and reasonably priced.

They owner was telling me that I really should consider at least "SOME" sort of alarm system to better protect the vehicle from break ins and from being stolen.

I asked some questions and the next thing you know, the counter is piled up with 4 boxes and a 900.00 price tag.

Alarm
Back up battery
KILL switch
Remote start
GPS
Tilt sensor

It's a beautiful truck, there are some valuable things inside... V1 radar, sub box, poweramp... (stock head unit though... so it doesn't advertise itself). The OEM locks/lock system doesn't have a kill feature and no batter back up, of which can easily be bypassed if they want steal the truck. Yes, there is OnStar, but... now your'e into monthly fees. I'm not a fan of Onstar. I'm also not a fan of having to carry around another remote and have some sort of ghetto chirping sound when I leave the car!

I would much rather not have a "total loss" on my insurance record due to a stolen truck however, one they get in it, it's pretty much gone anyway....

Uggggg... my question to you guys. Is this worth it? What are your thoughts here.

Snowcamo · November 30, 2018

Most shops around here quote me $600 due to a module needed. This is for alarm, Keyless and remote start.

As you stated it's not hard to kill a battery if they really wanted it. I've found all that is necessary is a tilt sensor and glass mic. I typically disabled the shock sensor as it's really not needed when you have the other two. As the door pins will alert the moment the door opens glass Mike does his job and tilt sensor well...

edited

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1SLOW1500 · November 30, 2018

Worth it also with a good interface module you can get added features. Like window up and down sunroof control. Longer range. You can hook up to factory horn vs chirp. Or turn of for lock/unlock.

I have and would still do the super long range 2 way system. The GPS has a monthly fee.

If they tow it your out of luck.unless tip sensor.

900 is insane. Cost on the very best ones is 100_150 and the bypass module like idata link is like 60. The labor is 1-2 hours.

For fun I was a master MECP installer for a few years. Also worked with the largest audio makers on the first interfaces for multiple audio source cars.

Oh and It works but non tac start isn't the way I like to do things.

Snowcamo · November 30, 2018

Worth it also with a good interface module you can get added features. Like window up and down sunroof control. Longer range. You can hook up to factory horn vs chirp. Or turn of for lock/unlock.
I have and would still do the super long range 2 way system. The GPS has a monthly fee.
If they tow it your out of luck.unless tip sensor.
900 is insane. Cost on the very best ones is 100_150 and the bypass module like idata link is like 60. The labor is 1-2 hours.
For fun I was a master MECP installer for a few years. Also worked with the largest audio makers on the first interfaces for multiple audio source cars.

Oh and It works but non tac start isn't the way I like to do things.

You mind walking us through an install? Also what model/ brand parts would you use?

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1SLOW1500 · November 30, 2018

sure I will walk to through. I like the DEI there are others that are good but I prefer Directed. There warranty is great I have seen them removed and reinstalled in cars and if it stops working send it in and they take care of it.

I had the Viper 2 way. I would stay away from the color screen as it sucks down battery. back up battery is a add on same with tilt sensor but things like trunk pop, locks, hood sensor, ect.... are just wired inputs. The Idata link shout give you most all of needed wires. Meaning you can bench wire the module to the DEi brain and then go to truck with very few wires. Data wire in in the OBD plug. It really easier then many think. there are print outs of wire color and location sometimes even pictures. Free tech help also.

I support small shops however there is also something to be said about big box like Best Buy.

Snowcamo · November 30, 2018

Right on. Where would one find said printouts of the truck wiring?

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kickass audio · November 30, 2018

As 1slow1500 pointed out DEI is a good brand. I have an old viper 5901 I had in my 2004 Envoy that I switched to my silverado and it works great. I love the unit but hate how DEI killed customers who are not paying vendors from programming their dball units. I was able to program them for like 2 years on my own and only had 2 modules, one for my truck and another for my girlfriends car and then they axed my account. I have since switched the bypass unit to idatalink and I have the bypass programmed to use the 2 way data mode just like the DEI units would. The only thing I liked about the DEI bypass is that it allowed me to have the windows roll up when I armed the truck but that bypass never was able to get my truck to crank or run on remote start. It would only get the ignition to turn on and just sit there.

If you are inclined to do a bunch of wiring it can be done at home. I highly recommend following the wiring schematic online and prepping the wires that you can connect together outside of the vehicle. The wires that you need to connect to the truck you can do like I did and just put a little piece of paper on each wire telling you what it is for and what it connects to so that it helps simplify your install.

I am only running my Viper 5901 unit with the idatalink ads-alca bypass module at the current time. I will be putting my glass sensor in the truck but I need to find a way to remove the upper dome light in the middle of the headliner so I can put my sensor there. I also will be putting the interior motion sensors in the truck too. With the bypass module set in 2 way mode it will set off the alarm for shock (pretty damn useless as the sensitivity is cranked and I have it ziptied to the metal brace in the dashboard under the wheel) and it will alarm on when any of the doors open or the hood opens since I have the factory remote start. I also tied into the defrost wire but had to wire up my own relay for it so it would apply + power and not ground like my dumbass did and shorted out the remote start and had to buy a new transistor pack for the remote start brain lol.

edit: this is the install guide for DEI units if you buy the idatalink ADS-ALCA bypass unit like I did. Note: You will need to buy a programming cable for programming the ads-alca and you will need to use internet explorer to program it after you create a personal account for it.

http://images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-GM12/DBI-AL(DL)-GM12-EN_20170421.pdf

1SLOW1500 · November 30, 2018

If I remember right you can buy the idata with the program in it for your model truck and I think BB sells them.

12volt.com and directed and many others have the wireing. even a install store will some times print them out.

I like the motion sensors but they can be sensitive. I only wire them to warning and to the roll up module. So I can leave windows down and any messing with truck gets a warning chirp and windows roll up. glass break is also a issue I just set inside sensor and shock sensor to alarm.

kickass audio · November 30, 2018

56 minutes ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

If I remember right you can buy the idata with the program in it for your model truck and I think BB sells them.

12volt.com and directed and many others have the wireing. even a install store will some times print them out.

I like the motion sensors but they can be sensitive. I only wire them to warning and to the roll up module. So I can leave windows down and any messing with truck gets a warning chirp and windows roll up. glass break is also a issue I just set inside sensor and shock sensor to alarm.

Glass break takes a ton of adjusting. You never want it straight near a window. On my old truck it was glued in a hole just in front of the optic sensor in the dash and when it would hail out or rain really hard the damn thing would go off. I had to turn it down really far which of course meant that my windshield would be set off along with the front doors but the rear doors and rear glass would have to be banged on really hard with a wrench to make it chirp for warning.

I would not recommend exterior motion sensors. Those are more annoying than anything since people walking by can set them off. That's why I opted for the interior motion sensor only.

1SLOW1500 · November 30, 2018

Glass break takes a ton of adjusting. You never want it straight near a window. On my old truck it was glued in a hole just in front of the optic sensor in the dash and when it would hail out or rain really hard the damn thing would go off. I had to turn it down really far which of course meant that my windshield would be set off along with the front doors but the rear doors and rear glass would have to be banged on really hard with a wrench to make it chirp for warning.

I would not recommend exterior motion sensors. Those are more annoying than anything since people walking by can set them off. That's why I opted for the interior motion sensor only.

I agree I have exterior motion on a show car was wired to warning only not alarm sirens. The interior motions are awesome I mounted in center console. Warning is a low noise and windows up.
Only issue I had was neighbor kids sticking sticks in the window. As I had the voice alarm. So it would talk chirp and roll windows.
I have had every option and extra at one time, gets crazy. Thank God for data modules. Shock sensor took care of glass.
With two way you can see what sensor was the issue and bypass if it is just a temporary issue like rain.
Then if it's a issue run to truck lock and loaded.

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Snowcamo · November 30, 2018

Glass break takes a ton of adjusting. You never want it straight near a window. On my old truck it was glued in a hole just in front of the optic sensor in the dash and when it would hail out or rain really hard the damn thing would go off. I had to turn it down really far which of course meant that my windshield would be set off along with the front doors but the rear doors and rear glass would have to be banged on really hard with a wrench to make it chirp for warning.

I would not recommend exterior motion sensors. Those are more annoying than anything since people walking by can set them off. That's why I opted for the interior motion sensor only.

I always turn it all the way down then a pinch up. Set mine right on the dash. No issues with rain. I can however tap the glass with my keys and it'll set off [emoji3]

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MRob · December 1, 2018

Wow! What a thread! So.... I'm assuming that this IS a good idea then. Despite the cost I was quoted... I will shop around.

A couple things:

With a 2017 I have remote start, windows up/down, app feature for specs and also start from app... so that would not be a benefit for me.
I also learned that you can activate on-star vehicle tracking for 5.00/month if that's all you want.

A couple questions:

What is DEI
What is the benefit of this over the stock "lock" situation?

1SLOW1500 · December 1, 2018

Wow! What a thread! So.... I'm assuming that this IS a good idea then. Despite the cost I was quoted... I will shop around.

A couple things:
With a 2017 I have remote start, windows up/down, app feature for specs and also start from app... so that would not be a benefit for me.

I also learned that you can activate on-star vehicle tracking for 5.00/month if that's all you want.
A couple questions:
What is DEI

What is the benefit of this over the stock "lock" situation?

No you dont have the same features. You would have independent up and down windows, sunroof control and for that matter about anything else you can think about that is electric. The alarm isn't just a siren but a starter disable. The 2 way option is a key fob that the mini screen tells you the issue and pages you when there is a issue. Also longer remote start times. Reverse start.
I can and have done it(legally) stolen a car. It was my buddies as a joke we would move it on him every time he drank. But it took about 1 minute. With a device and other item.
I can take you truck in under 2 minutes with flate bed or as some pros. Do with a enclosed trailer. Block the signal to the antenna and then disable it in trailer. Car gets striped in 72hr max, crush the rest.
Dei is just directed electrics.
Oh if the some what famous exploding rear window is a concern, you can have mini switches or even a pulse switch added to the defrost.
Many more options also. There is a temp run option. That if it gets to cold truck starts. Sounds dumb and is really guys run out of gas. But I have hunters that like it because they know they will not be in the woods long enough to run out of gas.

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1SLOW1500 · December 1, 2018

Oh stock lock. Glass break and grab still possible. Siren louder than a horn. True starter disable. Many add on sensors like,motion,glass break,shock,tilt, hood,door,tailgate.
I added mini sirens(motorcycle sirens) to my Camaro as it was a t top car. They are know as pain generators. Super cheap small and just wire to alarm with one wire.
Oh there is a negative disarm input. You can hide this wire or hide a switch on it. When if ever locked out just ground wire or push switch disarmed and unlocked. Good for canoeing.
The window control is different one push cracks the windows a few inches hold it they drop. Much better then window all up of down. I did it every time in the summer.

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