Jump to content

Hvac temperature control speed


Recommended Posts

Posted

Is anybody else irritated by the temperature control having to be rotated slowly to change. If I give it a quick twist, it only changes one or two degrees at a time. I’d have to twist it several times to change 10 degrees. I don’t have the patience to turn it one click at a time. Good news is there’s not much to complain about on these trucks. 

Posted

i'm with you!! I don't mind it for day to day driving, but since the stupid A/C compressor always comes on with remote start if I leave it in the cool position, I have to turn my heat up every time I get out. So its 6 degrees+ over what I think it will be outside the next time I start the truck and won't kick on the compressor. I HATE getting in my truck on a cool 65 degree morning to have the damn A/C blowing full blast!

 

That is really my only complaint about this truck........

Posted
9 hours ago, rah7777777 said:

i'm with you!! I don't mind it for day to day driving, but since the stupid A/C compressor always comes on with remote start if I leave it in the cool position, I have to turn my heat up every time I get out. So its 6 degrees+ over what I think it will be outside the next time I start the truck and won't kick on the compressor. I HATE getting in my truck on a cool 65 degree morning to have the damn A/C blowing full blast!

 

That is really my only complaint about this truck........

What temp did you have it set to when you shut the truck off?  You can have it set to 88 and when you remote start it, the ac will be on.  BUT, its to dry the air, not to cool it. 

Posted

I look at the weather for when I think i'll start the truck next time and go about 10 degrees above that. Assuming its not going to be over 90 out. 

 

If I don't do that...... Say I drive around with temp on cool with compressor OFF all day on Sunday. Monday I wake up for work and remote start the truck while its say 65 outside, the a/c will come on full blast and the inside of the truck will be 50 degrees when I get into it. Now, I put the key in the ignition and it all returns to how I had it on Sunday, compressor off. But the GREAT part now is all that moisture the system was pulling out for a few minutes while the compressor was running is now being pushed back out into my cab, fogging up all my windows. Especially the windshield. 

If GM would just make it where it could be set to last settings used, I would be a happy camper! but apparently they can't anymore. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 484 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...