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sometimes no start


Kevinreitan

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intermittent starting issue with my 2003 silverado 4.3.   only seems to happen after sitting for more that a few hours (first thing in the morning, or after work).   Turn the key and i have full power, lights radio door dingers all work but the truck won't start.  Can't tell from inside if the starter is ticking or not.   Battery is new, but i had that load tested yesterday just in case.   My next thought would be something in the starting circuit, since they are cheap i may try replacing the relay and give it a couple days.   the problem has been so sporadic that by the time i could get a test light hooked up, or find someone else to turn the key it starts fine.   

 

any ideas before i start digging in myself or take it in?

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Don't go winging parts at it yet. Just to clarify ... what you have here is an intermittent NO CRANK, correct?

 

If so, start with the basics - battery cables and battery. Check and/or clean both ends of each cable, and make sure battery voltage is 12.6v, ideally. 

 

Next time it fails to crank, have someone hold the key in the crank position, get a long pipe or extension, and smack the end of it with a hammer while holding the other end against the side of the starter, or get under there and hit the starter directly (make sure your helper has the parking brake ON, with the vehicle in PARK) - if it suddenly begins cranking over, replace the starter.

 

If that doesn't work, SET PARKING BRAKE, shift the transmission to NEUTRAL, and try cranking again. If it now cranks, but fails to crank in PARK, or begins cranking when you wiggle the shifter around, you have a neutral safety switch failure (common issue).

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10 minutes ago, Jsdirt said:

Don't go winging parts at it yet. Just to clarify ... what you have here is an intermittent NO CRANK, correct?       Correct

 

If so, start with the basics - battery cables and battery. Check and/or clean both ends of each cable, and make sure battery voltage is 12.6v, ideally.       

A:   Did that yesterday, and had the battery load tested

 

Next time it fails to crank, have someone hold the key in the crank position, get a long pipe or extension, and smack the end of it with a hammer while holding the other end against the side of the starter, or get under there and hit the starter directly (make sure your helper has the parking brake ON, with the vehicle in PARK) - if it suddenly begins cranking over, replace the starter. 

 

  A:   So far i haven't had enough time to do this, by that i mean, if i wait a minute and try again it starts.

 

If that doesn't work, SET PARKING BRAKE, shift the transmission to NEUTRAL, and try cranking again. If it now cranks, but fails to crank in PARK, or begins cranking when you wiggle the shifter around, you have a neutral safety switch failure (common issue). 

 A:  tried moving the shifter around, but doesn't have any affect.

 

Edited by Kevinreitan
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I am confused.  You say that if you wait a minute it will then start.  Are you sitting there with the keys out of the ignition waiting a minute to try it again, or are you fiddling around  turning the key to start, then shutting the key off, maybe even all the way back to lock before trying it again, and this time it starts? 

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4 minutes ago, Doug_Scott said:

I am confused.  You say that if you wait a minute it will then start.  Are you sitting there with the keys out of the ignition waiting a minute to try it again, or are you fiddling around  turning the key to start, then shutting the key off, maybe even all the way back to lock before trying it again, and this time it starts? 

I've tried starting it, then just waited and had it start on the second or third try after turning it back to lock

I've also tried starting it, then moving the shifter from park to N and tried again, then back to park and had it start, 

 

it's also not consistent on when it acts up, yesterday it gave me problems in the morning leaving for work and after work, today it started normally in the morning i don't know yet what it will do going home.    made multiple stops on the way home yesterday (store, gas station, etc) and it started normal every time.   

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This could also be the infamous ignition switch failure. You'd have to have all your test equipment hooked up and see what is happening when it fails to crank.

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First thing to try is the old Ford trick, reach over the steering column with your left arm and grab the shift lever. Pull the lever back and up as you turn the key to start. Press the brake pedal as well to unlock the shifter. 

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Thought i would give an update to close this one out.  Since the issue wasn't consistant enough for me to troubleshoot, I left it with a shop while i was out of town.  Turns out there were two alternating problems that could be the main cause.   The ignition switch was cutting out, and the gear in the started was loose and binding.   combined with some other routine maintenance and repair iteams, and the fact that we were already looking to replace the truck for something with more passenger space, i decided not to have it fixed.  managed to get $2000 trade in for a 16yo base silverado, that may not start when they need to move it.

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The truck will likely be gone from the lot within a week and sent to the auction.  If the body is good, and looks presentable, it will be picked up by one of those used car lots that always seems to have lots of inventory.  Around here when a dealer gets a trade in on a new vehicle they will first look at what they think they will get at auction compared to what they will get on their used car lot.  On a 16 year old truck that looks clean, good body, good interior and not needing anything big, they will get their money back, and maybe a bit more, but the biggest return is that they won't get any negative issues with the vehicle this way. Don't know about you, but I always hated trying to sell something that I knew had issues.  But I had no problems dumping it off on a dealer. 

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33 minutes ago, Doug_Scott said:

The truck will likely be gone from the lot within a week and sent to the auction.  If the body is good, and looks presentable, it will be picked up by one of those used car lots that always seems to have lots of inventory.  Around here when a dealer gets a trade in on a new vehicle they will first look at what they think they will get at auction compared to what they will get on their used car lot.  On a 16 year old truck that looks clean, good body, good interior and not needing anything big, they will get their money back, and maybe a bit more, but the biggest return is that they won't get any negative issues with the vehicle this way. Don't know about you, but I always hated trying to sell something that I knew had issues.  But I had no problems dumping it off on a dealer. 

right with you on that last line.   With the age issues on the truck if i put $1500 or so into it to bring it to my standards I would have barely broken even compared to what i got in trade.

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